Wiring up Electronics on the Boat

Currently my "New to Me" 2005 18ft Excalibur Legend boat is getting some repairs in the shop..

When I get it back in the spring I am going to do some modifications and additions such as:
- Upgrade 2012 Minn Kota Powerdrive V2 to I-pilot via an upgrade kit
- Install new trolling motor breaker
- Install 2 networked Helix 7 MSI sonars at the helm (Use one mainly for charts and DI and the other for SI)
- Install mount for cellphone at helm so I don't dunk the phone over the side (it has happened in the pool)
- Replace all stock speakers
- Install NOCO 10x4 onboard charger with AC port for charging batteries

I have two batteries in the rear wired through a cut off/selector switch and 2 trolling motor batteries in the bow.

The question I have is for the install of the Helix 7s. Should I power both of these directly from the stern batteries separately? Or should I run power cables from stern batteries to a Blue Sea fuse block under the helm and power the helix heads off that.

I'm leaning towards to the fuse block as it would keep wiring cleaner and give me the options to add stuff such as USB charger and other things later one..

How have others wired their electronics?? Other than small aluminum and a motor this is my first bigger boat ever.

do yourself a favor and start wiring from scratch
electronics such as fishfinders should be run on separate wiring and 10 gauge is recommended for peak performance. no bus bars, wired direct with soldered connections (crimps are garbage and for armatures)

typically I rewire 4-5 boats a year for friend upgrading electronics and it's disgusting what boat manufactures put in for wiring

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DanE

do yourself a favor and start wiring from scratch
electronics such as fishfinders should be run on separate wiring and 10 gauge is recommended for peak performance. no bus bars, wired direct with soldered connections (crimps are garbage and for armatures)

typically I rewire 4-5 boats a year for friend upgrading electronics and it's disgusting what boat manufactures put in for wiring

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So you suggest powering each helix by extending the power cables (don't know why they only make them 6ft..) and going directly to the battery with inline 3A fuse?

I just figured the Fuse block would eliminate the amount of wires and ring terminals on the rear batteries and clean up the boat in general. As well as I wouldn't have to add in ~6ft of new wire and a fuse.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Winterfisher

So you suggest powering each helix by extending the power cables (don't know why they only make them 6ft..) and going directly to the battery with inline 3A fuse?

I just figured the Fuse block would eliminate the amount of wires and ring terminals on the rear batteries and clean up the boat in general. As well as I wouldn't have to add in ~6ft of new wire and a fuse.

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Typically I fuse the electronic at the battery inline.
this is key when wiring forward facing sonar or even Mega 360. you run the inline filter than the fuse than to the 10 gauge main wire to the actual power cable to the unit. all joints soldered and shrink tubed with dielectric grease.
to many this sounds like overkill but to get maximum performance it's either this way or buying a SeaClear harness and they aren't cheap at all