Any engine knowledge out there

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January 2nd, 2020, 01:54 PM
standup

Any engine knowledge out there

Hi All
Question,,,,Bought a 68 ford galaxie with 390. Engine was done not to long back. Unfortunately cam is solid. I was not furnished with cam spec sheet. That being said I was told not long ago the valves were adjusted however needs valve seats. I believe all this as engine does not tick. Is ultra responsive but smokes a wee tad on start. So I'm wondering if I were to go out, run say 2 or 3 cylinders to TDC, feeler gauge the tightest rod and use that as a "Go back to" point should they need adjusting. To cure seal leak I'll be swapping out heads anyway cause they're close chamber @ 11:1 comp. So alum aftermarkets will bring comp into reasonable pump gas numbers plus fix oil bypass, plus get me double springs. With that and existing clearances to use for future adjust I shouldn't miss by much. I know it's usual to match a system and build fresh but I don't budget that right now. Does this make any sense? How many CC heads would one think would lower comp 1 to 1.5 points?
THANKS
January 2nd, 2020, 03:59 PM
jaycee

Ask this question at any Speed Shop Engine Rebuilders in your area " Hot Rod Shops " .
Google will also have answers!
January 2nd, 2020, 05:51 PM
standup

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaycee

Ask this question at any Speed Shop Engine Rebuilders in your area " Hot Rod Shops " .
Google will also have answers!

Oh I see, the "off topic" don't dare get off topic section. Got it. I we're Ontarians
January 2nd, 2020, 07:14 PM
dean.f

Sounds like you are on the right track, if you knows it's adjusted properly now, take an average and you'll be able to check in the future.

I thought I'd mention I put a new Edelbrock flat tappet in my small block Chevy over the summer, in the box there was a piece of paper with a warning that says modern oils don't contain zinc phosphorus additives anymore. They recommend any older engine with solid or flat tappet hydraulic lifters use an additive to prevent chewing the cam lobes.

Not sure how much I believe it might just be another money grab tactic. But something to consider.

I'd say unless you are putting huge mileage or hammering it on the drag strip the valves will likely stay in spec for a hell of a long time.
January 2nd, 2020, 07:34 PM
standup

Quote:

Originally Posted by dean.f

Sounds like you are on the right track, if you knows it's adjusted properly now, take an average and you'll be able to check in the future.

I thought I'd mention I put a new Edelbrock flat tappet in my small block Chevy over the summer, in the box there was a piece of paper with a warning that says modern oils don't contain zinc phosphorus additives anymore. They recommend any older engine with solid or flat tappet hydraulic lifters use an additive to prevent chewing the cam lobes.

Not sure how much I believe it might just be another money grab tactic. But something to consider.

I'd say unless you are putting huge mileage or hammering it on the drag strip the valves will likely stay in spec for a hell of a long time.

Don't call their bluff my USEFUL friend
I ran a Hyd cam with high lift that recommended an additive. Thought I was a hero and scrubbed the cam in under 200 miles. Trying to figure out how many CC's of a comb chamber I'll have to go to on heads to drop at least one full point off ratio from close chamber heads? That may require a call to edelbrock tech. On the cam I got a brain wave. Went out and measured lift. Found near identical on crane page and saw .026" lash. Oddly enough I checked a few and I'm sure you can guess the lash I found. I'll get on top of this sucker yet. Thanks
January 2nd, 2020, 08:17 PM
dean.f

I wonder if they make a fatter head gasket for that sucker, might be the easy way out.
January 2nd, 2020, 08:22 PM
standup

Quote:

Originally Posted by dean.f

I wonder if they make a fatter head gasket for that sucker, might be the easy way out.

the seals are leaking anyhoo so y bother I figure
Thanks
January 4th, 2020, 10:36 AM
Snowwalker

If the motor was just redone, has it had time for all the rings to seat?

You said it only smokes a little at start up, so what ever leaks only leaks when the motor is cold. Or do you mean it smokes every time you start it?

I mentioned the rings only because.
I bought a Datsun off a guy that was smoking after he and his dad rebuilt the motor. He had it for two months( short in town trips) and it smoked the whole time. I got it drove it about a month( highway trips) and it stopped smoking.

Probably not the problem but, I have seen it happen.
January 5th, 2020, 12:56 AM
jaycee

Quote:

Originally Posted by standup

Oh I see, the "off topic" don't dare get off topic section. Got it. I we're Ontarians

Here , i thought that I was offering honest , logical advice .?????
January 7th, 2020, 06:28 PM
thunderbolt

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snowwalker

If the motor was just redone, has it had time for all the rings to seat?

You said it only smokes a little at start up, so what ever leaks only leaks when the motor is cold. Or do you mean it smokes every time you start it?

I mentioned the rings only because.
I bought a Datsun off a guy that was smoking after he and his dad rebuilt the motor. He had it for two months( short in town trips) and it smoked the whole time. I got it drove it about a month( highway trips) and it stopped smoking.

Probably not the problem but, I have seen it happen.

That's what I was thinking as well. If the motor is fairly fresh it isn't very likely that its valve seals already.