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Reloading isn't hugely difficult but it is not a undertaking for drunkards, the inattentive, the careless or people who can't follow a basic recipe and set of procedures.
But factory loads are not 100% either. I've encountered hull separations, no powder, stuck wads and bad primers in factory shotgun loads. Shoot a lot and it will happen.
I can attest to that. I once bought a box of Federal CF ammo that had no powder in the shells. The primer simply went "pop". I haven't bought Federal since.Quote:
Originally Posted by Badenoch
I’m not sure what all the hoopla is about, but I don’t give out load data to people I don’t know. I’ll do generalizations though like Varget for .223 or say use a book load of Varget with an 80 grain TTSX in the .243. Specifics is up to the dude who’s going to singe his eyebrows!
The key to reloading is to follow published data and by starting with the minimum amount of powder gand then working the load up until best accuracy is achieved. Sometimes certain loads configurations just don’t work, so you have to start from scratch. Every firearm is unique and may prefer certain loads compared to similar firearms.
Good advice, what I might add is ensure your using the proper equipment for the components you are using, and understand the proof of the firearms for which you are reloading My father had a misadventure using some dated black powder equipment, of his dad, to load smokeless powder. He effectively double his powder charge with the old dram measure. Surprisingly a firearm made of modern steel was capable of withstanding the strain of the charge. It wasn’t until he fired a round in a gun of older vintage, that a catastrophic failure occurred . He was fortunate enough to only end up with a few birdshot in his one thumb.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Menard
You don’t stop hunting because you grow old. You grow old because you stop hunting.
- Gun Nut