All around good Knife for a great price Buck 110. Sadly I loose mine every few years. Think I have owned at least 10 in the past 18 years.
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All around good Knife for a great price Buck 110. Sadly I loose mine every few years. Think I have owned at least 10 in the past 18 years.
Buck 110 is a great knife, but I prefer my Russell Boaters knife by Grohman. Also like my Rapala fillet knife.
This is my favourite hunting knife. Besides the Delta logo it doesnt have a marking on it. I suspect it was likely "made in China" but ive no idea, I won it at a charity dinner. Its done a bunch of deer, small game, and skinned out a couple moose too. Sharpens up to a wicked edge with ease, which holds as well as one can expect. Best of all, it just feels right in my hand. That the most important part.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...aber/knife.jpg
Buck 112 Ranger has been mine for a while now
I really like the one I assembled five years ago. High carbon Finnish steel. Takes an edge well. I used it twice this year to cut the ribs open without sharpening. Just a little touch up with a steel. The blade is about 3 1/2". That's all I need...
If I was buying a new one:
http://forthenrycustomknives.com/wp-...5/8664AuWn.jpg
Bull nose
Blaze Orange G10 handles so I don't lose it when I set it down field dressing
Blade length +/- 3.5 inches
Bohler M390 Steel (One above is D2)
My current go to knife:
http://www.benchmade.com/images/prod...l_main/162.jpg
It is a Benchmade with a high drop point and blade length of 4 7/16 inches. It is S30V steel and does hold an edge pretty good. It has field dressed 5 deer this fall without sharpening and still shaves hair without pulling. My only real complaint is the blade shape is not the best for carving the rectum out of a deer but if your careful it is fine.
I don't think you can beat a good drop point for big game field dressing. A 4"-4 1/2" blade will do the job and I find anything longer than 4 1/2" makes the knife too unbalanced and blade heavy. Most handle materials used today are tough enough to withstand hard use but I guess there is just the question of whether you want the practicality of a grippy rubber type handle or the looks of other harder materials. I do like my knife handles to be fairly flat sided. If the handle is too rounded, like a lot of stag handles, I find it hard to get a feel for the orientation of the blade.
This is the knife I've been using almost exclusively for the last 10 years or so. It's got a bit of a different blade shape than most drop points but it works. I've only had one knife ever that's held an edge as well as this knife. Not sure who made it but it was marketed by Remington. I like it's smooth over all profile, no protruding finger guard or pommel to get hung up while working inside the animal.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...100_6447-2.jpg
I've been really happy with my Bear Grylls Gerber Fixed blade knife, I got it as a Christmas gift about three years ago and use it all the time.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...ps22508e67.jpg
One that is SHARP. If it's not sharp it's just another piece of useless metal to carry.
For me it would be a drop point or a recurve 3 1/2" long there would be knotchwork on the top so I always know where my finger is on top of the blade.
For the handle...theres just something about the feel of wood. A nice burlwood or birds eye would suit fine. Handle would closely resemble the blade length.