Trailer Lights?????

So when you follow ALL of the very good advice every one else has provided, should the issue remain......... check the truck side of the issue and start with the plugs and adapter if you use one. Savage308

And for another couple dollars, make yourself a dedicated ground wire (white) that goes from the front of the trailer to each light socket or mount. Your lights will be bright and you won't suffer the aggravation.

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Originally Posted by scarkner

One one of my boat trailers, the tounge of the trailer is actually bolted (not welded) to the rest of the frame. I used to have constant ground issues until I ran a wire between the tounge and the rest of the trailer frame. What you describe is 100% what I had.

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Scarkner my tounge is bolted to the trailer not welded to the frame, my light harness is grounded to the trailer body just after the tounge. Is there any specefic part of the tongue i should ground to? So basically i am running a 4 '' wire to ground the tounge and trailer body together.

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Originally Posted by Wahoo

Do you have a converter? They do go bad.

Buy one of these

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...er/A-p8196990e

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no converter just a simple 4 pin light harness.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Sounds like a bad ground issue...make sure to run a line from the vehicle to the trailer on fresh drilled/scrapped connections, don't rely on the ball connection.

note: A quick check put your booster cable clamp to the vehicle frame and then to the trailer frame..see if the trailer lights work.

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Stupid question are you saying the trailer gets grounded to the truck when the tounge and receiver ball connect? I realize the white wire from the truck harness is ground to the white wire on the trailer. Did not know that. My trailer ball has a bit of rust from lack of use. Could this also be part of the problem?

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Originally Posted by TurkeyRookie

Exact same setup on my boat trailer and same thing I did to resolve the issue.

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I will give it atry tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for all the replys guys much appreciated.

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Originally Posted by scarkner

One one of my boat trailers, the tounge of the trailer is actually bolted (not welded) to the rest of the frame. I used to have constant ground issues until I ran a wire between the tounge and the rest of the trailer frame. What you describe is 100% what I had.

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X2 Same issue and solution.

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Originally Posted by bdog

What everybody has said above is probably whats happening, bad ground, a cheap and inexpensive upgrade also for your trailer would be to get the LED lights from Princess auto and ditch the old style 1157 light bulbs, the bulbs and the sockets for those lights are not very reliable, I'm not saying that has anything to do with your problem, its just a reliable upgrade

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Again, X2 I used to have lots of issues with burnt/cracked/bad grounds with bulbs. I went LED, cost me smoething like $80 plus government strong arm fees, and very,very few issues now.

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Originally Posted by Fisherman

And for another couple dollars, make yourself a dedicated ground wire (white) that goes from the front of the trailer to each light socket or mount. Your lights will be bright and you won't suffer the aggravation.

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I've seen this cause issues - the light module bolts to the frame and if the mounting location doesn't have a good, clean contact to ground, wonky lights. Along with scraping the paint away, I try to use external tooth lock washers.

My SUV has a factory tow package with the 7-pin connector. I converted my boat trailer to 7-pin so I don't need to fiddle with the 4 pin connectors. They always seem to be more trouble. Always seem to be corroded. I usually break off a pin on one side or another and have to change it out.

I also carry an adapter in case I need to tow someone elses trailer. I suppose I should also make an adapter to got from 7 to 4 in case someone borrows my boat. Nah, that'll never happen, but I might need my fishing partner to tow with his vehicle someday.

I agree with the opinion about the LEDs being a smart upgrade. If you are going to change the rear lights anyway for whatever reason, go LED. Burn out a bulb on a side marker? For a few dollars more, go to Princess Auto and get an LED side marker. Swap it out. A lot easier on the wiring when you have MAYBE a 1/2 amp going to the lights than several amps with the brake and marker lights going. I find the LEDs are brighter, too.