Trolling motor rewire question

If you go to Princess, you can buy a longer spool of small wire cheaper and then just use two strands. It's way easier to work with than trying to crimp 6AWG. Provided the wire is exposed, you really don't have any safety issue, you just lose a bit of power and efficiency if you go to small.

If the wire is hidden or covered, then you can have a safety issue as it will wear quickly when the insulation is warm and you can't see if there are hot-spots.

If you have access to it, use a high-power soldering iron instead of crimps, you will drastically lower your resistance. You can also get glue-lined heat shrink tubing to slide over the wire and then set it with a torch. The glue will seal the joint water tight.

I can tell Scarkner has done this a few times and knows what works. Even a propane torch can be used to solder those crimp connectors. My 3000lb winch on the rear of my bike is powered by 2/10 speaker wire, with both strands used for positive and another separate wire for the ground. A set of quick connects to match the set on my bike booster cables lets me move the winch around. worked fine for 11 years now(and my rear winch gets more use than the one in front)
#10 is rated to carry 30 amps all day long without heating up, so using both conductors gives over 60 amp capacity continuous or 100 for short periods.
Just take a look at the main cable to your car battery.....probably a #8 or 6..on a newer vehicle

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Originally Posted by scarkner

If you go to Princess, you can buy a longer spool of small wire cheaper and then just use two strands. It's way easier to work with than trying to crimp 6AWG. Provided the wire is exposed, you really don't have any safety issue, you just lose a bit of power and efficiency if you go to small.

If the wire is hidden or covered, then you can have a safety issue as it will wear quickly when the insulation is warm and you can't see if there are hot-spots.

If you have access to it, use a high-power soldering iron instead of crimps, you will drastically lower your resistance. You can also get glue-lined heat shrink tubing to slide over the wire and then set it with a torch. The glue will seal the joint water tight.

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Thanks, this is turning out to be a more difficult and tool heavy task than i thought! Not having a soldering iron or crimping tools is making me thing im going to just stick with what i've got(6ft of 8 Gauge). Its an inflatable so i take the motor and battery out every time and it just kind of sits in the back wire coiled on the ground. I was hoping to move it forward a little to help balance the weight (me, motor and battery in the back already). the wire gets pretty toasty already so i was thinking that if I doubled the length I should up the size, on max its outputting 55amps and its my only motor so i can run it for 20-30 mins to run to my first spot.
If i use the 2 strand option am I crimping both strands into the same connector at the ends?

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Originally Posted by smitty55

I've never seen qd spade connectors any larger than 10ga. Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you have a 12ft booster cable could you not then just hardwire the one end into the tm and just leave the alligator clips on the other end for the battery?

Cheers

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The terminals on the inside of the motor are the male quick disconnect, i dont have alot of electrical experience but seems the best thing would be to use the correct spade connector, not sure how a secure connection could be made otherwise.

Thanks for all the help

Stick to your original option using the booster cables, too many options and will just make things complicated....the booster cable will work just fine, soldier the other ends direct to the QD spades on the motor or soldier or butt splice the existing motor cable to the booster cable and heat shrink.

If your existing cables are getting warm then they ARE too small. Are they heating the whole length or just at the ends (terminals)?
If you double up on the cables then get them both under the same terminal if you can. Seldom do you find spade terminals that will carry 55 amps for any extended time. Remember that on those series motors, the current increases as the speed drops due to a loads...

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Originally Posted by phoenix

I thought it would be best to just run a new length of wire rather than splice 2 different sizes since I have the full 12' anyways. and since it's constantly in and out of the boat, van, garage it's probably better it's one run so it doesn't get caught on something and separate or risk the joint getting wet In the bottom of the boat.

This is the type of connector I need to connect it to the motor :
http://hainesenterprises.com/images/...ssconnects.jpg

The weird thing is I can't even find any for 6awg to buy online anywhere!

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That's cause they don't make them..

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Originally Posted by patvetzal

If your existing cables are getting warm then they ARE too small. Are they heating the whole length or just at the ends (terminals)?
If you double up on the cables then get them both under the same terminal if you can. Seldom do you find spade terminals that will carry 55 amps for any extended time. Remember that on those series motors, the current increases as the speed drops due to a loads...

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They are warm just near the terminals even melted the wire close to the ring, but i think its because it seems like the ring terminal looked a bit corroded. And the speed switch stopped working (day 1 of 7 day camping trip) so i had it wired to always on top speed so as soon as i put on the positive terminal it was on, connection was not great since it was just sitting on the bolt. I cut back the cable a bit and put on a new clamp only used it once but seems better.

Its a bass pro Prowler motor so i had to wait for a part to come from the US, (got them to ship to store as shipping was going to be $50 US for a $20 part) finally came in and its installed now.

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Originally Posted by patvetzal

Remember that on those series motors, the current increases as the speed drops due to a loads...

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Can you explain that a little more? Here is the current draw info i could get on the motor.
- Speed 1F 11A/13A
- Speed 2F 13A/17A
- Speed 3F 20A/25A
- Speed 4F 24A/30A
- Speed 5F 45A/55A
- Speed 1R 20A
- Speed 2R 45A.

An easier way to say/understand it is that the amperage increases with the power output of the motor. Been fifty years since I did my schooling so I forget the details, but it is like a starter motor. If it is spinning fast with full voltage, the current is lower. A bit of low voltage from bad connections or weak battery sends the current thru the roof, and it's current that generates heat.
Starting Tuesday Sept 22 Princess has deals on welding cable and booster cables. You are still stuck with the spade connectors though. Might be good if you can find someone to replace them with something else.....A shop that does starter rebuilds might be a spot to start....

Glad to hear you found the issue. Gotta love wiring when it goes south.

Cheers Henry

+1 i get pretty well everything for my boat electrical at princess auto. just use heat shrink and a good breaker. 30amp for 12 volt of 50amp for 24v. should be able to get those for about 10-15$ a piece.

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Originally Posted by Fisherman

You can also get copper stranded welding cable, rubber coated and much more flexible. You can get it at Princess Auto.

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