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One thing I learned the hard way by working on my wiring along. With the auto headlights on my truck the trailer lights didn't work until the truck was put into gear. Then the lights came on. Kinda tough leaving your truck in gear then checking on the trailer lights.
What kind of truck? My 2011 Silverado has auto lights, but if you turn the dial to the right (on position, dial located to the left of the steering wheel), they stay on. There must be a way to take the lights off of auto.Quote:
Originally Posted by sawbill
FishFrenzy
Hooked onto the big trailer last Friday and found that there was no trailer brakes. Turned out that the dealer had used a test prod to identify the truck wires and the moisture got in and the wire corroded right off. The trailer wiring was fine.
I am also a fan of heat shrink but they can get awkward when splicing three or more wires.
I have also been known to install terminal strips on the tonque/front of trailers just so I can test with a meter.....This was more on off road trailers that got dragged thru some heavy bush and rocky roads.
Does this mean that when you pull over to the side of the highway with a flat tire, etc, your trailer lights go off!??Quote:
Originally Posted by sawbill
I have the 7 pin setup on my trailer because I use the same vehicle to tow my camper. Even with a dedicated ground wire to the rear lights, I usually have no lights for a few km, until the hitch/ball connection shines up enough to give me a good ground. I also have a split connection where the tongue meets the "Y" frame of the trailer. I had to run a ground across this junction as well...
Is the ground wire in your 7 pin connected to the trailer body (and the dedicated ground) as well as the chassis ground on the truck ? Why would you need to be grounded thru the hitch as well? Sounds like one of your ground connections is missing.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35wailin