Cleaning a Carb

If equipment is maintained you should not have a problem with ethanol. I run the cheap gas in all of my equipment. But except for the snow blower and lawn tractor I start all my equipment throughout the year. I also add a fuel stabilizer to all my equipment such as my generator. My generator since I rarely need it I pull it out 2 - 3 times a year and run it for several hours. I also run seafoam through all of my equipment on a regular basis and all my gas in storage about 90 liters is stored with added sea foam.

If you are storing equipment always best to store it with the carb empty of fuel. I usually shut off the fuel source and run the carbs dry.

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Originally Posted by Stu

In the future use ethanol free gas in small engines. Can't promise it won't EVER cause a problem but it will store much longer than anything with ethanol in it. The carb in my Briggs & Stratton generator was ruined in 2 seasons because of ethanol. I was running it about every other month for 1/2 hour in the hope of keeping it tuned.

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Originally Posted by Stu

In the future use ethanol free gas in small engines. Can't promise it won't EVER cause a problem but it will store much longer than anything with ethanol in it. The carb in my Briggs & Stratton generator was ruined in 2 seasons because of ethanol. I was running it about every other month for 1/2 hour in the hope of keeping it tuned.

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Many moons ago a wise old mech told me that ....always burn 'super' gas in small engines. It was reiterated when I bought my first Stihl chainsaw...the dealer told me to always burn super. Got in the habit of always doing that.

Yes it does make a difference, especially with chainsaws.

When I buy gas I have also got in the habit of adding the stabilizer to it in the Jerrycan. Mix it once and never have to remember to do it as I use it.

The debate on whether to store a wet or dry carb still continues today. I always used to do the same as GW and run the carb dry with fuel that had stabilizer in it. I was then told by both mechanics at Yamaha, Stihl, and Husky that this is a no-no. They said dry storage will do more damage by allowing all your gaskets and seals (some of the new chainsaw carbs are full of rubber) to dry out and deteriorate. I checked the owners manuals for some brand new Yamaha outboards at work and it also says to store the fuel system wet.
I've been doing the following for about 10 years now and haven't had a carb issue since:
outboards - I run a 10micron water separator filter on them, even the small kicker motors. I still run reg. UL through them but always make sure my tank is full if the boat is going to sit (stops phase separation on ethanol fuel). For winter storage I mix up a small amount of either Yamamlube stabilizer or SeaFoam. Run the motor for 10 mins then kill it. I purge the old gas out of the fuel line. Leave the carb wet and use storage seal spray in the spark plug holes. Come spring - add new gas and usually first or second pull it goes. I then replace the water sep. filter once the new gas is in the system.
Chainsaws and brush saws- I've had nightmare carb issues with the new saws since the emission standards have changed. I now only burn ethanol free super. I run sea foam or yamalube conditioner through it before long period storage and leave tank full. Buy fresh gas in small amounts and don't use anything that's older than 4 months old. So far so good. God help us if we go to E15 fuel. I'll probably start using the premixed $$$$ bottled gas.

Carb is soaking now. Will let it soak until Friday and since I am going away Friday. I will add fresh hot water and vinegar and soak again until I come back on Sunday.

For anyone interested, PA has an ultrasonic cleaning machine on sale for $99. good for doing small weapons parts too.

Yeah for me that would be a nice to have. I am slowly getting to the point of hating to repair stuff anymore. I no longer do the work on the wife's car I take it to the Mechanic and my truck sometimes goes to the mechanic. I just work on my car and small equipment and once my stuff is working any usually runs for a long time. The only thing excluding the Bike not working 100% is the chainsaw and those parts are order. I was tempted to just buy another one, but I want to fix it. Also have to repair rear brake on ATV.

I am slowly buying spare equipment before I retire down the road even spare boots and shoes so another chainsaw might not be far off I even have a spare car repaired the wife's old car so when mine dies I still have another one also have a spare generator I am rebuilding..

Crap I have two many things to fix.

But I have the carb soaking right now

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Originally Posted by Fisherman

For anyone interested, PA has an ultrasonic cleaning machine on sale for $99. good for doing small weapons parts too.

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Got the two last jets out just now.

Will buy the new Jets and float needles tomorrow or next week. (going camping Friday)

Well those parts were some expensive, but I cleaned all the parts nicely I have on order the Float Needle which should come in next week sometime, So I figure I should have it back together on maybe Canada Day (I will be away Camping before that up North). That little needle cost a pretty penny of 40 bucks. I probably should have replaced 1 diaphragm but I think it's OK that would have been 80 bucks. But if I need to replace it later it's an easy part to get at, so not a big deal.

A friend has a new unused back tire he thinks will fit as well. Once I get it working I need to adjust the clutch and the brake.

Small victories. Take them when you can..

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Pretty sure the mechs used to soak carbs like that in a bath of hydrochloric acid....Drain cleaner.. for 15 minutes.

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Most drain cleaning chemicals are actually strong bases not acids. Typically sodium hydroxide (lye) based. There are acid based cleaners available but they are usually sulfuric acid based not hydrochloric acid. Not sure whether a lye base opener would work or not. If you use an acid based product you have to be very careful as the acid will produce explosive hydrogen gas when in contact with most types of metal.