Google for insurance companies in the general area of your cottage. That's what they deal with. Ask a few locals in the area. It pays to shop around to get a fair price and coverage that works for you.
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Google for insurance companies in the general area of your cottage. That's what they deal with. Ask a few locals in the area. It pays to shop around to get a fair price and coverage that works for you.
I'll ask them if it was ever certified, but if it isn't, they won't want to do it. My insurance told me that if it isn't I have to get it certified or disconnect it. If I have to get it certified, I will, since it's a fairly nice cook-stove.Quote:
Originally Posted by LiveBates
Now I know who to ask if I need a hand ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
If you have any issues with insurance I use a rural cooperative insurance company and they have no problems with a wood stove. WETT installation does not have to be done by a certified person, it just has to be correct. Look up the definition of WETT installation and have the documentation on the stove, if there are no dimensions on the stove then there are defaults that need to be checked. We had a stove that was not WETT installed but could be upgraded to be legal with the simple addition of a heat shield to all combustibles, so that is what we did.Quote:
Originally Posted by rf2
My current insurance company just needed pictures with a tape measure to verify the dimensions as they were not going to come out to the camp to take their own.
Thanks for the info!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox
Wett Guy doesn’t have to be that bright my guy fell of my roof
The WETT certificate covers the installation end of things but your stove requires either a ULC or CSA approval. Older stoves don't have those certifications and as far as I know there's no way to get them certified. You see some very nice stoves selling for peanuts because they aren't ULC/CSA approved.Quote:
Originally Posted by rf2
Our insurance company will use default clearances if no CSA/ULC tag is on the stove, I believe you need 4' clearance without any heat shield in that case.Quote:
Originally Posted by DanO
I think your right..I always thought it was 12" if it wasn't a certified stove, but the code doesn't seem to make the differentiation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox
When a I installed mine I put up a metal heat shield behind it and that reduced it by 1/2 .
edit add: see there is a lot of conflicting information..this website (Canadian ) says it can be as high as 48".Quote:
THE ONTARIO BUILDING CODE | CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLE FRAMING
9.22.9.3. Clearance to Combustible Framing
(1) Not less than a 100 mm clearance shall be provided between the back and sides of a solid fuel-burning fireplace and combustibleframing, except that a 50 mm clearance is permitted where the fireplace is located in an exterior wall.
(2) Not less than a 50 mm clearance shall be provided between the back and sides of the smoke chamber of a solid fuel-burning fireplace and combustibleframing, except that a 25 mm clearance is permitted where the fireplace is located in an exterior wall.
https://www.woodheat.org/clearances.htmlQuote:
It is a good idea to avoid uncertified stoves for serious heating because their safety and efficiency are likely to be inferior and many insurance companies refuse to cover houses containing them. Also, because they have not been tested, their performance is unknown, so the minimum required clearances to combustible material are very large: 1200 mm (48 in.) for radiant stoves and 900 mm (36 in.) for stoves surrounded by jackets behind which convection air can flow.
That chart on the website is where my insurance guy must have got the 12" ...67% of 36 " with heat shield
Wrong post