No thanks!
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Tried the new Stihl hand sharpener. it's better than the old hand file system, but IMO still far inferior to the Timberline filer https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/...ry/spare-parts
Had one now for about 6 years and am really happy with it. Have prob. now sharpened 300+ chains on a 24" bar and I'm still using the original burrs. Easy to use, fast, and zero guessing,. Your angles are dead on every time. Comes with 30 degree inserts. For $13 more you can order the 25-35 degree insert if you want. I use this as well on my Alaskan mill Oregon and Laser ripping chains. Surprised no one else has mentioned this sharpener on this thread. Best manual I've ever used. Even works well, and quickly in the field. I mounted a 5" bench vice on a 3 foot piece of railway tie that I just throw onto the tailgate of the truck. Makes a rock solid clamp for sharpening. I like the motor-driven grinders but haven't had much luck with the cheap ones. We have a commercial grade Oregon sharpener at work that came from Baileys and it is fantastic. Only problem is that it's worth about $3500 and uses a diamond grit wheel that's worth about $300. They are nice because you can perfectly shop grind 4-5 chains and take them out for a full day of cutting and not have to be pissing away time sharpening. Makes a huge difference if you're running a chainsaw mill. Watched the dude on the Stihl video and there's a few things I think he missed when he demoed the sharpening. I learned how to sharpen from a commercial jobber who taught our cutter-skidder cert course. Same process was observed in the cut shacks at EB Eddy and Abitibi camps - first thing you always do is tighten the chain as tight as possible on the bar. You'll never get a uniform angle on the tooth if there's lateral movement of the chain. Once the saw is chucked in the vice, it has to be level before you start sharpening. I slap a cheap 6" level onto the chain, and adjust the saw in the vice so that it is zero levelled. I was taught 3 strokes per tooth, then you tap the file tip twice on the vise peening plate (to clean the filings off the file) before you go to the next tooth. If you needed more than three licks, you were considered a "townie" (a rookie cutter who didn't know how to use a saw properly, meaning you must have let your bar/chain touch ground, rock, or soil ).
I saw the Tiberline sharpener on youtube, does look like the answer, very slick. BUT at 3x the price I don't do enough sharpening to warrant the cost, especially since this new Stihl 2-1 sharpener does what I need it to do, sharpen the cutters quickly and accurately.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...53&cat=1,41131
Lee Valley sells the Timberline one.
Question:? Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener.
Can you change file size? From 5/32” to 7/32”? Both chains(2 different saws) are 3/8” pitch, but different file size. Just curious
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I just realized the sharpeners are sold according to pitch size so there’s a 3/8”P(picco) 5/32” file and 3/8” standard 7/32” file. Soooo you’d need two units..2much coffee:/
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Feeling really sheepish with my little MS170I...I feel rather small...