I went down the rabbit hole with my wife car

So thought I would post the issue with my wife's car as I went down the rabbit hole. Going to cut my losses at this point even the dealer says it's a rabbit hole. The car is a 2011 Kia Sorento 3.5 litre.

I got error codes
P0030 Multiple Misfires
P0301 Cylinder 1
P0303 Cylinder 3
P0306 Cylinder 6

Which is strange to be all one side but we check the coils and Plugs all fine.

So begin replacing the top sensors long story short right down to the Variable Valve Oil control Solenoid (They are very expensive 2 of them).

Car improves but same codes. Strange but at times runs fine but then will start dumping fuel. At this point my Mechanic and I are scratching our heads where do we go from here? New codes now pop up .

P0014
U0001
C1627 Can time out 4WD
C161 Can communication Bus off.

These codes can be caused by the cam shaft or can be cause by a malfunctioning computer or many others.

All these problems can be caused by so many things that pretty much it is pretty much impossible at a reasonable price repair.

The issue could be anything even a simple as some crud on the Phasers.
I got off lucky I'm only paying for the parts, you never know where the rabbit hole will go.

If you ever get an issue like this you will need to decide how far you want to go down that hole.

Who knows the car may even start working properly next week. For now I have to start looking for a new car for the wife (There goes the second ATV I wanted).:scream:

Oh I forgot to mention no wood piles fell on it.

I started down a similar road with my truck, thankfully (sort of) it only has 100k so ended up under powertrain warranty. New cam and lifters, new injectors courtesy of GM. It seems like the more they try to make them fuel and emission efficient the worse the problems become.

That sucks. It’s frustrating to work on these newer vehicles. I'm currently trying to diagnose a grinding in the front end of my f150. It goes away in 4x4. Figured it was a vacuum line or an actuator. Nope. Bearings look ok too. It’s intermittent which is a bother. A lot easier and more room to work on older vehicles.

That's the problem with this is so many things could cause another code that you can chase it forever. Even the dealer said they would just chase it like my Mechanic. It could be as simple as a piece of crud causing the Chain to stick or it could be the cam shaft or the crank shaft, the timing chain, computer you could keep looking forever. Lucky for me my mechanic is only going to charge me for parts and even he is not interested in trying to fix it and sell it to make extra cash. He's a straight shooter and said he would not go down the rabbit hole again. He has another customer with a similar issue on a Honda CRV and he's going to tell her not to go there sadly she only bought her car 6 months ago, at least I had mine for 3 years.

But the same thing can happen with a new car your warranty is up around 100K and this happened at 210K. Sometime you get a Lemon and it's not worth fixing.

We will probably drive it for now while we look for another car and put it up for sale for parts and let buyers know what we repaired and they can decide if they want to go down the rabbit hole they might luck out but even as a parts car I can probably get 500 - 2000 depending how long I want to wait. I can wait to sell it so no problem to store it unless it starts to annoy me when we replace it.

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Originally Posted by dean.f

I started down a similar road with my truck, thankfully (sort of) it only has 100k so ended up under powertrain warranty. New cam and lifters, new injectors courtesy of GM. It seems like the more they try to make them fuel and emission efficient the worse the problems become.

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I have had something similar on both Jimmy I owned and it was the drive shaft.

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Originally Posted by Birdbuff

That sucks. It’s frustrating to work on these newer vehicles. I'm currently trying to diagnose a grinding in the front end of my f150. It goes away in 4x4. Figured it was a vacuum line or an actuator. Nope. Bearings look ok too. It’s intermittent which is a bother. A lot easier and more room to work on older vehicles.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

That's the problem with this is so many things could cause another code that you can chase it forever. Even the dealer said they would just chase it like my Mechanic. It could be as simple as a piece of crud causing the Chain to stick or it could be the cam shaft or the crank shaft, the timing chain, computer you could keep looking forever. Lucky for me my mechanic is only going to charge me for parts and even he is not interested in trying to fix it and sell it to make extra cash. He's a straight shooter and said he would not go down the rabbit hole again. He has another customer with a similar issue on a Honda CRV and he's going to tell her not to go there sadly she only bought her car 6 months ago, at least I had mine for 3 years.

But the same thing can happen with a new car your warranty is up around 100K and this happened at 210K. Sometime you get a Lemon and it's not worth fixing.

We will probably drive it for now while we look for another car and put it up for sale for parts and let buyers know what we repaired and they can decide if they want to go down the rabbit hole they might luck out but even as a parts car I can probably get 500 - 2000 depending how long I want to wait. I can wait to sell it so no problem to store it unless it starts to annoy me when we replace it.

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Might be a bit of work, but is it worth going to the wreckers and swapping out motors?

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I have had something similar on both Jimmy I owned and it was the drive shaft.

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I thought about that too. Just haven’t had the urge to climb under to check the u-joints or hanger bearing.

Haven't checked the price of motors but I will do that, probably won't be worth it but doesn't cost anything to look into.
Crappy part of all this it my wife is driving my car and I am driving my truck, the dodge cost 30 bucks a day to go to to work.

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Originally Posted by Birdbuff

Might be a bit of work, but is it worth going to the wreckers and swapping out motors?

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If you take the shaft off yourself the cost to rebuild will be probably half although you might want to check Rock Auto (Be sure to check delivery it varies)

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Originally Posted by Birdbuff

I thought about that too. Just haven’t had the urge to climb under to check the u-joints or hanger bearing.

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so I see one engine for sale 3450 bucks (I can probably nickle and dime own to 3000.00) but I could install it and even still it might not be the real problem in this case.

Old trucks and cars are so much better.

My old 88 Ranger
My 4th Pontiac Sunfire 2003 paid 2900 put 300 in and have had it for 4 years so far.
My Dodge Truck 2005 although Loaded has a shifter for the 4wd, I so much like older vehicles.