I can't seem to find a pair of crimpers for insulated 8 gauge connectors? I have a pair of Irwin vise crimpers, but they only will fit up to 10 gauge insulated connectors. Any ideas / tips?
Printable View
I can't seem to find a pair of crimpers for insulated 8 gauge connectors? I have a pair of Irwin vise crimpers, but they only will fit up to 10 gauge insulated connectors. Any ideas / tips?
Ask your local battery shop, they may have a set to make battery cables.
I would just use chanel locks. Than solder them. Won't come apart. .
That being said I know a guy that has 2 ton press... he owns a company that connects wires to crimp ends.
Go to your local Electrical Wholesaler ( most have a crimper on hand ) or even better do you now an electrician.....Quote:
Originally Posted by RTRonthefly
I have seen large crimpers at Princes Auto.
I have a couple of pairs of T&B plier type connectors that I used at work to crimp ring connectors onto #8 stranded wire. I would then solder the connection. It was carrying a 42 amp 440 volt heating load.
These heaters came from the factory with a crimped only connection that kept burning off. Once they were soldered they lasted indefinitely. I would just squeeze the joint enough to hold it for soldering. Put the heat on the bare section then use heat shrink over anything that gets damaged. Princess auto has heat shrink on sale May 26-June 7.
I just solder larger than #10 CRIMPS propane touch and leadfree solder works well heat lug apply solder and insert stripped cable end in then a quick wrap with electrical tape when doneQuote:
Originally Posted by RTRonthefly
I agree with the above, solder them. You want to create a tight mechanical seal first, which can be done even with a hammer, just to make sure that the copper is held reasonably well, then work your solder (electrical solder, never ever use plumbing solder for electrical) into the joint.
A bad crimp is a major fire hazzard.
I was taught to always tin the copper end first, then fit on the connecter with channel locks to make a good contact, then solder on the connector. This would be especial important in a Marine environment.
I would solder as well. I used to solder #4 wires and even larger cables when I was running power for amps when installing car audio. We had brass connectors with set screws and I would solder them in because sometimes there was enough vibration from the heavy bass tones to loosen the set screw and cause labour warranty issues. Once I started soldering them, the problem went away.