Trolling motor rewire question

Hey guys, I have an electric trolling motor that I want to extend the cables on by rewiring it. I've done the voltage drop calculations and I should be good for 12ft @ 6 gauge. I've read online that a cheap option is to use Booster cables, picked up a set from Canadian tire for $20. They are copper aluminum strand mix.
I called a store that sells marine wire and they quote me over $100 for 24ft of 8 gauge.

Anyone see any reason I should just use the Booster cables? I only paid 80 for the motor so I'm trying to keep the cost down.

This is for use on an inflatable so I disconnect it every time anyways and I really don't expect more than 2 years of use out of it before I get a real boat.

Also if anyone know somewhere I could borrow a crimping tool for 6 gauge wire that would be awesome, not sure how I'm gonna do that.

Thanks

i ran new wire for brotherinlaws boat same 6 gauge but put 50 amp resetable marine breaker by battery if you can solder and heatshrink the connectors its ok to use booster cable wire, if no crimps hillbilly method of tapping crimp down with hammer and small punch ,solder will hold wire in place.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by deerslayer

i ran new wire for brotherinlaws boat same 6 gauge but put 50 amp resetable marine breaker by battery if you can solder and heatshrink the connectors its ok to use booster cable wire, if no crimps hillbilly method of tapping crimp down with hammer and small punch ,solder will hold wire in place.

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Thanks for the info, I'm just going to leave the clamps on the ends and hook them up the battery when I use it, the other ends use quick connect terminals and are inside the motor. I was looking at the circuit breaker but I saw the minn Kota one for $60 as the only option, just didn't make sense cost wise for me.

you should be able to source wire at better prices than that. "marine" is not necessary. I agree with deerslayer, avoid the crimps, solder and heat shrink the interfaces.

You can also get copper stranded welding cable, rubber coated and much more flexible. You can get it at Princess Auto.

Thanks I'm going to go by princess auto tomorrow and see what they have, any idea where to get the connectors from? I'm having a tough time finding a quick disconnect terminal for 6 gauge.

So your goal is to extend the cable length. Why do need a quick connect? Cut the clips off the motor cable, and splice in whatever length you need from the booster cable. All you'll still need is a butt splice and some sleeving. If you are going to solder as well make sure you don't use plumbing solder. The flux is too corrosive.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by smitty55

So your goal is to extend the cable length. Why do need a quick connect? Cut the clips off the motor cable, and splice in whatever length you need from the booster cable. All you'll still need is a butt splice and some sleeving. If you are going to solder as well make sure you don't use plumbing solder. The flux is too corrosive.

Cheers

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I thought it would be best to just run a new length of wire rather than splice 2 different sizes since I have the full 12' anyways. and since it's constantly in and out of the boat, van, garage it's probably better it's one run so it doesn't get caught on something and separate or risk the joint getting wet In the bottom of the boat.

This is the type of connector I need to connect it to the motor :
http://hainesenterprises.com/images/...ssconnects.jpg

The weird thing is I can't even find any for 6awg to buy online anywhere!

I've never seen qd spade connectors any larger than 10ga. Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you have a 12ft booster cable could you not then just hardwire the one end into the tm and just leave the alligator clips on the other end for the battery?

Cheers

Leave the original wires on the motor. They will be pure copper and you can solder a ring connector to the other end. Get ring connectors at an automotive supplier. Stay away from those aluminium cables. You cannot solder them and need a hydraulic press to make a proper crimped connection.
Go to an automotive radio shop and get some heavy (#8 will probably do) copper cable from them. You can then solder a ring connector to one end and bolt these to the ring connectors you soldered to original cable. Heat shrink them after trimming the bolts as short as possible. The other end can have whatever you need to match up to your battery.
You are only running a 12volt motor that will have a short run of exposed wiring, not an industrial or residential install with 200' runs of enclosed cable.
I have #6 copper booster cables on my 40lb Minkota and they work great.