Idiot truck manufactures

So the other day my truck would not start. No nothing but I have lights an everything else but no start.

Battery is good did a load test on it. Pulled starter had no choice as there was no other way to test the wires going to it except by pulling it. Now what ever idiot decided to put it in a place where you cannot reach the wires except to loosen off the starter and then rotate it in awkward positions to disconnect it and then even twisted it in more position should be ...... . I tested the starter now that it's off and it seems fine, tested the wires and the big one has 12 volts and when we turn the ignition on the smaller one has 12 volts. But the meter in the truck still only says 10.

I can't for the life of me figure out what else to test before putting the starter back in.

Have to get this working soon so I can move the trailer.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

So the other day my truck would not start. No nothing but I have lights an everything else but no start.

Battery is good did a load test on it. Pulled starter had no choice as there was no other way to test the wires going to it except by pulling it. Now what ever idiot decided to put it in a place where you cannot reach the wires except to loosen off the starter and then rotate it in awkward positions to disconnect it and then even twisted it in more position should be ...... . I tested the starter now that it's off and it seems fine, tested the wires and the big one has 12 volts and when we turn the ignition on the smaller one has 12 volts. But the meter in the truck still only says 10.

I can't for the life of me figure out what else to test before putting the starter back in.

Have to get this working soon so I can move the trailer.

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Did you check fuses and circuit breakers?

Ford?

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Before removing the starter, did you try banging on it with a hammer while someone turned the key to the crank position?

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Originally Posted by rf2

Before removing the starter, did you try banging on it with a hammer while someone turned the key to the crank position?

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^^^ Hockey stick and a hammer work well for this. Sometimes the act of removing and reinstalling 'un-sticks' them.

I would use a multi meter to test the voltage going to the starter, insert the probes directly into the starter cable (sharpen if required), I would also test the starter relay as they get stuck.

Clean the battery terminals with a brush and ensure all connections are tight, a loose connection can return a reading of 12v but not have the the surface area to draw the high amps a starter requires. I had a car stall on the way home due to a dirty battery connection.

You are reading 10v at the gauge because the ignition system is using power even when the engine is not running (key on engine off).

I second the idea of checking the terminals and tighten or clean as necessary. Also check the relays/fuses!

its incredible that even with the size of the hood on our pickups they still have no room to work on them. I had a 92 f150 you could practically sit under the hood while working on the engine. Lots of room to play in older trucks.

Yeah my old 1988 Ranger was a breeze to work on.

I tried to test the wires going to the starter but very hard because of the length. The wires are to short I have to reach in blindly with the multi meter wire and try to get a contact on the wire my readings were all over the place from 8 - 11, so was it a bad connection or bad wire. Going to pick up some alligator clips tomorrow and some wire so I can do a better test.

Canadian Tire use to Load Test Starters for free at one time, does anyone know if they still do that.

Yes battery terminals were cleaned. I always keep those cleaned.

If you have 12V at both terminals, then I would be looking at either a stuck solenoid (do the hockey stick hit... not too hard or you can shatter the magnets)... or you could have a bad ground which may suddenly start working when you bolt it back on.

I've seen a rebuilder "load test" a starter they fire it up in a vice and try to stop the gear with a 2x4. I've had the park/neutral switch in the shifter keep my old honda from cranking. Ford's are famous for starter cables rotting out. What kind of truck is it?