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So, a rainy day before storing it away for the winter is a great time to change the bottom end oil…..
pulled the bottom drain screw out and I got a little water, not much more than a capful, and quite clear…pulled the top vent screw out and out came the oil….beautifully golden. Boat has sat for a week since last use.
so….is a little water like that something that warrants a look at seals or does everybody get it ?
Other years some of the oil has been black as midnight, but no water
Golden oil usually means water mixed in with the oil. If it were me, I’d get the seal replaced, and check the oil plugs for good gaskets. Replace the plug gaskets anyway…water in your lower unit is not a good thing!
Rick, I think golden is clear, clean oil. Milky is oil and water mixed and something to be concerned about.
Looks like simply replacing the worn out gasket on the plug should do the trick.
Next year, inspect mid summer and see if there is any water.
Happened to me and it was a simple fix but don't know the age of your outboard.
Does it sit in the water all summer or on a trailer?
Maybe, my lower unit oil is green(ish) I guess it depends on what you consider “golden”…Quote:
Originally Posted by sawbill
Milky colored oil is an indication of water and oil mixed together and would be evident if drained immediately after use. If the motor has been stationary for a week, the water will separate from the the oil, and settle to the bottom, with a clear demarcation between water and oil.
Yeah - checked my leftover bottle of gear oil from last year and it’s the same colour, boat sits on a trailer all year
As suggested I’m just going to replace the seals on the vent and drain ports, and check mid-season next year
I don’t think a capful is anything to get too worried about
I'd run it the first time next season and take a zip tie to dip the oil from the top plug when you get it home you'll see right away if it's milky how bad it leaks. Check behind the prop for fishing line if you have the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by 73hunter
I would get a new seal kit for the motor, cheap insurance.
You didn't say how old your engine is or when you last replaced the impeller, so I would replace the the impeller and do a seal kit as fishhawk suggested. I also replace the fill and drain plug seals with every gear oil change as suggested by my mechanic. Check for fishing line as it will work its way in and destroy the prop shaft seal.
2008 Mercury 50hp 4-stroke, bought fall 2018, not sure when the impeller was last done, I keep a close eye in on the tell-take stream and for sure going to have it done next year
The main reason behind checking/changing the Lower End gear oil is to make sure there is no water in it. If it's milky ... change it ! The possibility of water being in the Hub and freezing may cause blown seals or even cracking of the Lower Unit. Just like fogging the engine or adding a stabilizer to the fuel check or change the Lower Units oil is standard procedure in my book. Needless to say if it's a 4 stroke to also change the engine oil.
As for water pumps ? Cheaper to change them then blow your motor ! I've seen some with their "pisser" working fine at idle but once you throttle up it reduces to a trickle or nothing at all; this could indicate your vanes on the impeller have worn down too much which causes it not to seal against the pump housing causing lack of flow causing the motor to over heat.
If the water is not mixed in with the oil, and it sounds like it is not, then it did not occur from running the motor. A small amount that you describe could be condensation build up.Quote:
Originally Posted by 73hunter
That’s kind of what I figured. Going to take it for service in early spring to have the all lower end seals replaced so I know it’s done. Put some new oil back in for the winter anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marker