Boat Trailer Repair Project

On the weekend, the wife and I made the payment on our new to us 14' Lund Deep and Wide fishing boat, and since then have started getting everything else into place.

I just ordered a new Curt Class III Hitch and a T-Connector wiring harness (no splicing) Have a buddy that has a lift in his garage and is going to install for me.

The last piece was a trailer, my brother inherited a 14' from my folks after their last boat upgrade, and got a trailer with it, and since that time (6 or 7 years) it has not moved from his back yard, called him up and asked if he'd be interested in getting rid of the trailer and he said sure. He painted it, re-did the rollers, crank, and strap and had about 100 bucks into it. I offered him a 100 but he said just take it and use it.

The downside, he lives in Cornwall, but as luck would have it, my dad, also in Cornwall, is coming up to Timmins on the 20th and is going to tow it here for me. He went and picked it up today and said the tires are cooked and rims in bad shape.

He went to a few tire shops and found a good set of used tires, already on rims, and managed to get the pair for $50 and put them on for me.

It doesn't have a tongue jack, but that's no big deal, $50 at Canadian Tire, and the lights look to be in rough shape, but that's a quick CTC fix as well.

Now onto the trailer bunks, my dad said they are in really rough shape, and not attached (brother had planned to re-do those as well, but never got to it)

I am thinking a couple chunks of pressure treated 2x6 ought to do it? some heat/water proof adhesive and indoors/outdoor carpet, stapled on the bottom side?

Any other ideas/suggestions.

are they typically standard length, or does it vary on boat? As well, what do you use for a guide for the height of them?

Thanks.

Did anyone mention service to the wheel bearings for a safe trip to Timmins?

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Originally Posted by impact

Did anyone mention service to the wheel bearings for a safe trip to Timmins?

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Dad took care of that today to :) must of been a slow day at the home office lol.

2x6 for the bunks might be overkill? I've got 2x4 on mine. The length will depend on the boat. My trailer has 4 rollers equidistant along the length on the boat, but the back 2 aren't holding the boat up when it's in position, the bunks are.
You might consider a mount of sorts for the spare tire. When I built my trailer, I just used a long threaded rod, 1/2 inch I think? Drilled a hole centre on the tongue and bolted that solid. I then made a cross bracket that fit across the hub space hole and bolted that down. The tire is laying horizontal and it doesn't budge. Just make sure you have a wrench the right size for that nut if you have a flat. And don't ask me why I know that!

That's good thinking Bushmoose, the tongue is plenty long enough to compensate that idea.

I can just imagine how you know :) hopefully you weren't to far from home / shop to get a wrench and back to the trailer.

I was originally thinking 2x4 but wasn't sure if it was wide enough.

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Originally Posted by TurkeyRookie

I was originally thinking 2x4 but wasn't sure if it was wide enough.

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Carpeted 2X4 on mine as well. Just make sure you use pressure treated but you already knew that, right!

I've got 2x6 on mine because that's what I had handy, plus they are strong and wide enough to walk on when recovering from a tricky spot.....

If it doesnt have them already make sure you buy bearing buddies. Makes greasing the axles easy so you can do it often. As for lights get the LED ones. Much brighter.

Actually, greasing the bearings often is a bad idea. A good set of bearings, with good seals wont need any grease at all. I think bearing buddies have wrecked more seals, then allow water in the bearings, leading to failure.

ym;804227]If it doesnt have them already make sure you buy bearing buddies. Makes greasing the axles easy so you can do it often. As for lights get the LED ones. Much brighter.[/QUOTE]

Heard mixed results on the LED trailer lights; lots of guys seem to report that low voltage (poor connections/grounds) cause lights to die. Replacing them annually.

I redid the lights on my boat trailer this year. New wiring, ground to each brake/turn light... soldered all joints and sealed with hot glue + heat shrink. Dab of hot glue, let it set up a bit, slide heat shrink over the joint, then use a heat gun... heat one end, let it shrink and harden up, then heat along the length... glue will remelt in the joint and squish out the end of the heat shrink as it contracts down the length. Same as the double-layer heat shrink, but a heck of a lot cheaper. The small craft-type hot glue guns are best, as the glue is a lower temp melt point. Larger glue guns run hotter and low-melt glue will run everywhere.

I have bearing buddies on both my trailers and swear by them,not AT them.LOL Now, matching the boat to the trailer is a little more tricky. The rear roller should be at the stern of the keel within three inches of the the transom edge and the other rollers equidistant from the rear roller to the bow of the boat riser and should be holding all the weight. The bunks should only be used to stabilize the hull while keeping it level on the trailer,holding very little weight. It will become very self-evident the first time you re-load the boat (you should notice very little "drag" resistance while winching the boat up.) That will dictate the position of the winch stand adjustment and the tongue length. Spare tire mount kits can be found at CTC and a fairly inexpensive. You didn't mention whether the trailer axle was adjustable which is real handy for balancing the weight of your boat on the trailer to establish tongue weight. This,too,will become self-evident when travelling on not-so-smooth,gravel roads.

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Originally Posted by northernontario

I redid the lights on my boat trailer this year. New wiring, ground to each brake/turn light... soldered all joints and sealed with hot glue + heat shrink. Dab of hot glue, let it set up a bit, slide heat shrink over the joint, then use a heat gun... heat one end, let it shrink and harden up, then heat along the length... glue will remelt in the joint and squish out the end of the heat shrink as it contracts down the length. Same as the double-layer heat shrink, but a heck of a lot cheaper. The small craft-type hot glue guns are best, as the glue is a lower temp melt point. Larger glue guns run hotter and low-melt glue will run everywhere.

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This the stuff I use. It works great, much easier to use than a glue gun. IMO
Attachment 25969

I find that bunks spread the weight out on the hull, just like being in the water whereas rollers concentrate it in one little area.
Check the website of bearing companies to see how much grease they need, then you will forget about bearing buddies.
The sealed tail lights similar to the ones used on transport trailers tend to last forever as long as the wiring is good. Doesn't matter if they are LEDs or incandescent, but the LEDs require a lot less voltage and current to operate. I don't understand how SAE approves some of the tail lights on the marke, especially the ones that take 1157 bulbs....

Thanks for the tips and info.

The trailer axel is not adjustable, but the trailer itself is a tilt trailer.

Saw the "submersible" LED kits at CTC, good reviews, and for the price, if they last great, if not, well it wasn't that much. Key seems to be to ensure a good clean ground.

As for adjusting the bunks, I guess the only real way to do it is to get the boat up on it, adjust, and just try it out on a launch / load and see how it comes in and adjust as required.

Actually those "submersible " lights are NOT waterproof in any manner and are open at the bottom. Road spray and salt both get into the socket to do their thing. I find that they start giving trouble pretty quick as a result. They might be ok after the winters salt is all rinsed off the roads or if only used in DRY weather. They are sealed at the top so they air lock when you back into the water, keeping the bulb "dry"....
Remove the bulbs and coat the base with grease. The socket contacts are aluminium or steel..

I don't trust anything they say is waterproof. Make sure you disconnect the wiring before backing into water and let it drip dry afterwords before reconnecting.

Something tells me TR, that you're going to be sorry you posted this? :silly: Wiring? Lights? Bunk boards? Rollers, Spare tire?..... whew! Who knew eh? :eek:

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

Something tells me TR, that you're going to be sorry you posted this? :silly: Wiring? Lights? Bunk boards? Rollers, Spare tire?..... whew! Who knew eh? :eek:

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LOL you got that right, that's why the duck boat goes on the roof lol

I

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Originally Posted by Pat32rf

Actually those "submersible " lights are NOT waterproof in any manner and are open at the bottom. Road spray and salt both get into the socket to do their thing. I find that they start giving trouble pretty quick as a result. They might be ok after the winters salt is all rinsed off the roads or if only used in DRY weather. They are sealed at the top so they air lock when you back into the water, keeping the bulb "dry"....
Remove the bulbs and coat the base with grease. The socket contacts are aluminium or steel..

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These are LED submersible lights, no bulbs/sockets, says completely sealed? but like you said, for how long? who knows?

But for the price, if they only last a year or two, so be it.

[QUOTE=TurkeyRookie;804537]These are LED submersible lights, no bulbs/sockets, says completely sealed? but like you said, for how long? who knows?

Not the ones that I was complaining about. Sealed is what you need, not open at the bottom when talking bulb type units. On LEDs it probably doesn't matter as long as the circuit board has been dipped/sprayed/sealed somehow...

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

Something tells me TR, that you're going to be sorry you posted this? :silly: Wiring? Lights? Bunk boards? Rollers, Spare tire?..... whew! Who knew eh? :eek:

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When asking for information on these forums,hold onto yer hat cuz here she comes LOL

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Originally Posted by trimmer21

When asking for information on these forums,hold onto yer hat cuz here she comes LOL

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It's all great information, and appreciated, lots of things I didn't even think of, like the spare tire holder.

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Originally Posted by TurkeyRookie

It's all great information, and appreciated, lots of things I didn't even think of, like the spare tire holder.

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Just make sure there is plenty of anti-seize on the tire carrier, otherwise you will be looking for a hacksaw to cut it off when you need that spare a couple of years down the road!

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Originally Posted by PaulR

Just make sure there is plenty of anti-seize on the tire carrier, otherwise you will be looking for a hacksaw to cut it off when you need that spare a couple of years down the road!

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My "Oh Crap" moment was with our camper on the interstate about 100 yds south of the Georgia state line......The next summer the spare fell off on the hydro line north of Haliburton on the way into Madawaska lake. Didn't know it until we found it on the way back out....too much anti seize!

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Originally Posted by Sinker

Actually, greasing the bearings often is a bad idea. A good set of bearings, with good seals wont need any grease at all. I think bearing buddies have wrecked more seals, then allow water in the bearings, leading to failure.

ym;804227]If it doesnt have them already make sure you buy bearing buddies. Makes greasing the axles easy so you can do it often. As for lights get the LED ones. Much brighter.

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[/QUOTE]

I agree.
Good seals and proper grease. Bearing buddies make you feel better by greasing more often, but you are blind to any early detection. Better to just pop the caps after each season and check.

Not sure where you are located. But princess auto is way cheaper than Cantire. And way better selection for trailers.

Got the new Curt Hitch installed tonight, and the Wiring T-Harness, was nice and easy, no spicling, just pop out the taillights and plug in and run the power and tap a ground.

Put the test light on the harness and had all lights working.

Let's see a pic of this boat n trailer unit?

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

Let's see a pic of this boat n trailer unit?

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Not here yet, dad bringing trailer from Cornwall on Saturday then I'll head down with it and get the boat.

Just installed a Curt receiver on the front of my Dakota. A real slick unit....Took about ten minutes once it was on the hoist. Hope to have the winch and mount finished tomorrow.....

Wholly smokes a free trailer, sure costs a lot of money :)

Just picked up a draw bar and ball, set of trailer lights (Dad said current aren't working), license plate, spare tire holder, and a wheeled jack stand.

Heading out fishing in the morning, at the lake the boat is currently at, once trailer is here, toss the goodies on and fix the bunks and can bring the boat home.

Dad dropped the trailer off, looks to be in good shape, of course it's missing a bunch of pieces. Brother took them off, a number of years ago to paint the trailer, never put them back on, and has since lost. Few trips to the hardware store and should have it ready to go get the boat.

http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...psdebca7cf.jpg

Definitely looks like it has the weight capacity for anything up to 20'. How big is the boat again?

It's a 14' Lund Deep and Wide.

As Pat32rf say's, that does look like a heavy duty trlr? I notice that the winch stand doesn't look like it's adjustable? By the time you get the boat up on it, the transom may be inside the end, which may be a problem if you plan to carry the motor when travelling?

It was setup for a 14' so should only have to make minor adjustments. The trailer is a tilt, so the winch isn't movable, there is a tonge infront of it with the, lack of a better term "nose catcher" bumper on it, and it is adjustable in and out.

So who lost their parking spot for your project :)

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Originally Posted by MikePal

So who lost their parking spot for your project :)

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Good catch ;) the wife.

So I figured today I would tackle the lights, cut all the old wiring out and took the tail lights off, simple enough. Had picked up the submersible LED kit from Canadian Tire. Instructions looked simple enough as well.

Ran the wires where I thought they should go, taped them in locations that looked like they could rub, tie strapped everything into place, spliced the wires into the lights, more tape, bolt into place, and put the license plate holder in and attach the plate while I'm at it.

Stand back and admire my handy work.

I attach the trailer to the truck, plug in the harness and walk to the back to take in the glowing glory, only instead of glowing glory, I'm met with dimly lit dismay...

Only the side marker lights are on, not the main LED's.

When it comes to this kind of stuff, I am as savvy as Tim the toolman, I don't even pretend to know what I'm doing, but what I can do, is work Google like a boss.

I recall reading on here a lot that people complained about dim lights and most times it seemed to be bad grounds. I checked all mine, they were all new (3 of them) one off each light, with a new self tapping screw and washer into each side of the frame, and then the ground off the wiring harness at the front of the trailer, same new self tapping and washer into the frame.

I ponder awhile and think what else can it be. I am looking over everything and just about to give up, when it hits me. This is a tilt trailer.... and it hasn't been tilted in years. I wonder if the two sections are not making a good connection between the two. So I cut a small piece of wire, quickly crimp a loop onto each end. Drill one end into the tongue, and then start to drill the other into the rear frame section, making a clean ground front to back and bypassing the tilt connection.

The screw makes about 2 turns against the frame and as soon as it hits clean metal, the fence behind the trailer lights up! SUCCESS!!!

I know to most this is a "yea so what" moment, but for me, it was sheer brilliance :)

So we now have working lights.

http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d357469.jpg

The pic is a little crooked? Was the photographer into the sauce celebrating his wiring prowess? Good job though!

Yup the vast majority of trailer light issues are directly linked to probelms with the ground. I used to fix trailers for guys when I was living in Victoria, the salt water really does a number on metal to metal connections.

Happy you had a eureka moment :)

Those look like a direct replacement for the incandescent fixtures on my utility trail that that my BIL crunched on me last week. It was tricky, but he managed......

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

The pic is a little crooked? Was the photographer into the sauce celebrating his wiring prowess? Good job though!

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lol I swear last night when I posted it, it was good and straight. Seems to have tilted over night ;)

Dropped the oldest off at school this morning and had some spare time before starting work. Got the jack stand on and the spare tire mounted.

Bringing it to a buddies on Saturday to get the bunk mounts created.

Everyday Myles walks by and asks if we can go fishing yet.

http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1406213561

A trussed tonque even!
Might want to extend the walkway a little bit forward and move the jack to the drivers side . Makes it a little easier on us old lazy types....

Went over to my buddies tonight, with what I had for bunk brackets and tweaked them. He had some scrap metal laying around so cut me two more plates, as two were missing. They will straddle the cross sections of the trailer and bolt on.

The original design were set crews to pinch the pipe and hold it in place, the screws haven't been turned since they were in so most bolt heads broke off, tried to heat them up with the torch but they still broke off, put them in a vice and pounded them out, used a grinder to grind the bolt off inside the hole so the pipe moved freely.

Then drilled a hole crossways through the bracked. then a series of holes through the pope so the bunks are height adjustable.

Popped the caps off the pins and took the old 2x4's out. Drilled holes in the ends of the pins to use cotter pins to secure it with washers.

Think it will work just fine. Heading over in the morning to rough fit it on the trailer, grab some 2x4's and we'll be ready to head down and get the boat.

http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...pse7c7a7be.jpg

Got the trailer all finished today. Rolled it over to my buddies garage and put it up on the lift. Mounted the bunk brackets, broke the roller bolts free and cleaned them up with a wire wheel and put anti-seize on them.

The latch for the tilt trailer was king of rickety so drilled a hole right through and put in a locking pin.

Cut all the old chains out and attached new ones.

Popped the caps off and checked the bearings, everything looked good, popped bearing buddies on and filled with grease.

Picked up a couple 8 foot pressure treated 2x4's and made the bunks.

Rolled down the highway about an hour to where the boat was and lifted it on. Our rough measuements of where stuff "should be" was pretty close, enough to get it home.

Trailer was making an awful racket as we rolled into his place. Got it disconnected and hoisted the boat and trailer up. The tounge stand had moved. (they had bolts at the bottom pinching it tight) so we took those out and drilled it right through the tongue and bolted it down.

The winch rattled lose, so we tightened it as best we could then made some tack welds.

Other then that everything held up good.

Moved the bunks out about 2" so they were just on either side of the rail that runs down each side of the boat, and moved the middle bumpers up so they are just touching.

Just going to take the pressure washer to it tomorrow and get it cleaned up.

Man is it ever nice working in an "equipped" garage. The lift was awesome, and nice to have air tools!

http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ac3a2d6.jpg
http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...psa64f8068.jpg
http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...ps61200502.jpg
http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...psa6707c4b.jpg

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Originally Posted by TurkeyRookie

Man is it ever nice working in an "equipped" garage. The lift was awesome, and nice to have air tools!

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Thats cheating!

Gonna get some broadloom on that pressure treated before the chemicals dissolve the aluminium?? Hate to see the boat split in half now that you have a trailer for it. ;-)

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Originally Posted by Pat32rf

Gonna get some broadloom on that pressure treated before the chemicals dissolve the aluminium?? Hate to see the boat split in half now that you have a trailer for it. ;-)

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That's this weekends project :)

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Originally Posted by Pat32rf

Gonna get some broadloom on that pressure treated before the chemicals dissolve the aluminium?? Hate to see the boat split in half now that you have a trailer for it. ;-)

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You ever seen that happen? Or any corrosion from PT and Al at all?

I have had PT lumber in my boat for about 7 years now. No sign of any corrosion at all. Best floor going IMO.

Trailer looks great TR. Good job!

S.

Forgot to mention, a strip of puck board on the bunks works real good. Better than carpet IMO.

S.

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Originally Posted by Sinker

You ever seen that happen? Or any corrosion from PT and Al at all?

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I just heard this on a home reno show recently...now that they are using more cooper in the PT wood it's become an issue;

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Aluminum flashing is another area you need to consider when using pressure-treated wood. Aluminum is especially vulnerable to corrosion when in contact with copper-rich lumber. That's why it's essential to use copper flashing anywhere near pressure-treated wood.

http://www.canada.com/ottawacitizen/...1-97cf362d841d

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Well now that you guys got me all paranoid :)

I headed down to my local Home Depot (where not one of them offered to come over and help) so much for their slogan...

Grabbed a chunk of indoor / outdoor carpet. They didn't have any marine carpet so figured for a project like this, it would be fine.

Opted for some galvanized roofing nails to secure it.

Nailed down the one edge, rolled, tucked, nailed, and continued.

Trimmed the corners, fold, nail, cut out the slots for the bunk holders and on she went.

The trailer is done!

http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/...psb590d5a6.jpg

Looks good Jason..another successful DIY project. The wife will think your some kind of manly man :)

One last thing you need to buy. Get a spare wheel bearing kit and put it in the glove box of your tow vehicle, a pair of needle nose pliars and an adjustable wrench and tire iron wrench should always be in the vehicle too.

You may want to change the bolts holding your bunks into the brackets with galvanized bolts and nuts. The pressure treating will eat the steel bolts

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Originally Posted by B Wilson

One last thing you need to buy. Get a spare wheel bearing kit and put it in the glove box of your tow vehicle, a pair of needle nose pliars and an adjustable wrench and tire iron wrench should always be in the vehicle too.

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Originally Posted by B Wilson

You may want to change the bolts holding your bunks into the brackets with galvanized bolts and nuts. The pressure treating will eat the steel bolts

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Good tips! will certainly have the correct tools on board, and a spare bearing kit isn't a bad idea either.

As for the bolts, "there's always next year" I'm done working on it for now :)

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Looks good Jason..another successful DIY project. The wife will think your some kind of manly man :)

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lol no worries Mike, she makes it clear I wear the ovaries :) especially while I baked cookies last night! Our house knows no "typical gender roles" if something needs doin, it gets done, regardless.

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Originally Posted by TurkeyRookie

As for the bolts, "there's always next year" I'm done working on it for now :)

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You did a dandy Job! Now it's time to play while there's still a bit of summer left. Enjoy!

Just backed it into the driveway after a 900km round trip. Trailer hauled great, and the boat loaded and unloaded with ease.

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Originally Posted by MikePal

Looks good Jason..another successful DIY project. The wife will think your some kind of manly man :)

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In the words of a legendary sage, "If you aren't handsome, might as well be handy".................:ninja:

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Originally Posted by TurkeyRookie

lol no worries Mike, she makes it clear I wear the ovaries :) especially while I baked cookies last night! Our house knows no "typical gender roles" if something needs doin, it gets done, regardless.

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Hey, my wife takes out the garbage and I do 90% of all the cooking. We aren't the traditional household either. No matter what I try and bribe her with though she won't clean pheasants. Oh well, she still looks pretty good naked......:scream:

You know what they always say on this forum about pictures of our catches.......

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Originally Posted by terrym

In the words of a legendary sage, "If you aren't handsome, might as well be handy".................:ninja:

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Hmph. :(

And some are both....