How can I set up by boat so while running, the engine can also charge my 2 front batteries when needed. Tired of using the trickle charger at home. There must be something on the market that allows you to switch back-and-forth??
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How can I set up by boat so while running, the engine can also charge my 2 front batteries when needed. Tired of using the trickle charger at home. There must be something on the market that allows you to switch back-and-forth??
Install a switch.. And wire all batteries in parrell.. All u need is a switch going to the front battery on either the black wire or the red wire.. I would connect a 14g wire from neg on back battery to neg on front battery.. Same for the pos. Side.. But put a switch (on off) and an inline fuse as well.
Of course this only works assuming you have a 12v system in the front as well..
Canadian tire also sells a "battery isolater kit" will make a cleaner job.. And will automatically do the job for you.
This would be the best way as well.. Won't allow the motor battery to drain from trolling motor use. but will still charge the trolling batteries.
Get a 3 bank on board charger. Plug boat in when you get home and its ready to go when you need it.
S.
That won't allow him to charge the batteries off the motor though...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinker
Not all outboards are set up for charging. Mine will allow me to run the navigation lights while running, but I cannot charge batteries. Check your owners manual.
If your motor is electric start, I would expect it to have charging capability......
Not enough amperage. You'll have to run your motor all day.... and longer.
It can be done over a period of time with a switch. Maybe some solar panels!!! lol
You wont charge your batteries off the engine regardless. Maybe maintain a starting battery, but charging deep cycles isnt gonna happen.
S.
Quote:
Originally Posted by topher
If its an outboard it will only have a small dyno only capable of running the spark plugs. On board multi bank charger is your option. Inboard engine different story. I have a battery 1, 2 or 1+2 switch. Just set to 1+2 while running and your charging.
On board charger only for deep cycle batteries. They charge at a much different rate then starting batteries not to mention that your stator is not likely putting out more than 9amps depending on the model. I've had guys come in with running problems and when we have a look they have extra lights and batteries that non alternator driven outboards just are not capable of operating. DEEP CYCLE BATTERIES USE A ON BOARD CHARGER ITS THAT SIMPLE.
I have a 15 hp. Johnson with electric start that I was fishing with for the last 2 weeks of the lake trout season. It has a 4 amp. alternator which keeps my battery charged to run my sonar, GPS, which are on all day, running lights at night, and many starts as I kill the outboard with every strike. The battery started at 12.53 volts and ended the 2 weeks at 13.35 volts. I used to have to charge the battery after about 5 days before adding the electric start and charging system. At 4 amps, for which you need about 2/3 throttle, it won't compensate for a trolling motor drain, but it sure is nice not to have to charge a battery in the bush.
My Legend came with both an on board plug in style charger and a dc charger the runs off the motor to charge the trolling batteries.
The dc charger helps when running and gunning but doesn't come anywhere near charging a run down battery, (not enough output amps would be my guess). If I had to replace it, I'd just spend the bucks on bigger batteries with more reserve cap. and a better on board charger for shore power top ups
buy a battery isolator (its just a relay but it is designed for high current) hook it up to your ignition wire so when your running your motor it charges your other 2 batteries. it is better to hook it up this way then a switch because when you have you're key in the off position your battery that is used to start your motor does not get drained
Cheers
Don't. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be deep cycled. Charging them off your engine will result in reduced battery life.Quote:
Originally Posted by cambam
Great question Cambam. You never want to hard wire from your starting battery to your deep cycles this is a big nono. Your best bet is to purchase the DC charging unit available by Minn Kota. Here is a link: http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Batter...ator-Chargers/
Keep in mind that this will just give you a top up when your main outboard is running. It sends a trickle charge not a full 6amp+ charge so it won’t harm your batteries. You can also purchase a 3 bank charger to tie everything together and when plugged in it will maintain and smart charge your batteries. I use group 27 series and it gives me a full day and a half of use on a 80lb. unit. I find going with group 31 series is a little too big and heavy. Hope this helps
Cheers Henry
The electric output of my 15 HP Suzuki (manual) is very marginal . Soooo , I'm utelizing five 2.5 W solar-panels to maintain the deep-cycle-battery . The 12.5 W (~1Amp.) total output (under ideal circumstances) is sufficient to run my GPS , Sonar and 2-way-radio . --- OK , I'll have to admit that the radio is very seldom used but the GPS and Sonar are on whenever I'm on the water . --- Originally I had mounted only 3 panels and discovered that it wasn't enough . Fortunately , Can. Tire had another sale and I picked up 2 more . At $9.95 ea. the price was tolerable . --- A controller is not needed because of the relatively low output . --- The panels are small enough to be installed where they don't get in the way . --- My Sonar (Garmin) constantly shows the available battery-voltage . There is no probability of over-charging the battery . --- If there would be I'd just cover the panels with a rag .