Printable View
He guys, found the mechanical broad heads annoying last year in my first bow season. Used fixed ones on my crossbow before getting into compound bows... I'd like to go back to these.. found the mechanical ones would open at the wrong times when handling them
thanks
A lot of guys on here use the G5 Montec solid blade (or Striker fixed/replaceable blade) broadheads. They set the standard that many others copied (Excalibur etc).
Great all round broadhead that now has even has a crossbow specific model in either broadhead.
http://www.g5outdoors.com/category/10
http://www.bowzmart.com/contents/media/4_0.png
I'm using the g5 montec fixed as mentioned above with my cross bow (barnett quad 400) and love them.
I've had good results with Slick Tricks from my Exocet.
G5 monte is a terrible head for a couple of reasons. They don't come sharp enough and they are hard to sharpen.
3 blades are no as efficient as 2
Penetration is considerably worse.
The only thing that is good about them is that they are sturdy and cut on contact is great but again.. try and get them sharp enough.
I would personally consider only a couple of broadheads worthy Imo and thankfully for you none of them are mechanical.
2 blade single bevels are the best no hassle kill anything that walks this earth then sharpen and re-use. Grizzlystik makes a variety of great heads.. Although pricey. But with a bit of learning to sharpen you can re use over and over.
Steelforce (not serrated model) are pretty close and a little cheaper.
If double bevel blades are more appealing because there is less skill to sharpen and less $$
I'd go muzzy phantoms first.
Another good choice is stingers.
Both of the aforementioned come with bleeder blades making them a 4 blade and I'd recommend buying heavier heads 125 or 220 then you lose 20 grains when you take the bleeders out... or just leave them in. 25% reduction in penetration when left in.
Properly matched arrows with 2 blade fly just as good as anything else. I've shot them out of compounds. Trad. And crossbows. I still have a phantom in my recurve quiver that has killed 3 deer.
The most important thing to a arrows lethality is blade sharpness.
If you want some general scientific knowledge on how arrows and broad heads work best research Dr Ed Ashby read all his stuff and essentially the debate is over. Everything from that point on just boils down to practicalities, budget and time.
I'm not sure what standard G5 set. Probably the standard they borrowed from the NAP Thunderhead and snuffer. Quit reading magazines and marketing material bud.
Wow....thats a pretty blanket statement, maybe you should include some internet forum post too...Quote:
Originally Posted by Frozenfew
I always liked the wasp fixed 3 blades myself.... I would imagine with todays technology (any brand name broadhead) with a properly placed shot would seal the deal on any game.
Find one that shoots consistently out of your bow and that you have confidence in....
Good luck with the search
Quote:
Originally Posted by fratri
:):):) Well said, also keep in mind the majority of info on here is opinion not fact, and normally the stronger the opinion the less factual IMO LOL. That being said, I feel the same way about bow hunting as I do steel waterfowl loads. Just buy a good quality product and stick with it because once again the actual difference in performance from braodhead to broadhead isn't that great but people's shooting skills are all over the map. I will stick with my Slick Trick 125s as they have proven worthy to me:)
muzzys or slick tricks fly awesome and great prices
Your right...considering how many deer were shot over 100's of years with a sharpened stone on the tip if a stick, almost anything will kill a deer with a well placed shot :)Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeter1
"that broadhead will kill them but this broadhead will kill them better"...LOL....
The most important thing with any broad head especially fixed blade is that they will fly perfect, if you don't hit where you aim number of blades penetration etc is irrelevant.
Nearly all broad heads claim this reality though your bow need to be in perfect paper tune for this to be true. You can get away shooting mechanicals or field points from a bow slightly out of tune, but fixed blades won't group worth crap especially on longer shots.
as for fixed blades, crimson talons n slick tricks fly best I've seen especially with blazers, the crimsons you just have to pay attention to how you set them up, like the directions say Wax their inserts so the don't spin out of the arrow in flite. They do make a mess of a deer and turkey. Had good success with slicks as well and will shoot both to 40 yards. Anything longer shots though I want a 2 blade rage while I'm not a huge fan of mechanicals I believe this is the only one to use and they do have a time and a place.
Slick Trick for me!
I have used 4 bladed muzzys with great results all pass throughs on deer
I have been using the same with no issues. I have always wanted to try out the Carbon Express F-15, I just have not been able to get my hands on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by rackman
i used mechanicals for a while too but didn't like how they failed to open on a number of occasions.. i shot the 125 grain wasp jackhammers and they were very good.. strong and stayed razor sharp.. this year i am trying the 100 grain muzzy 3 blades... given to me by a buddy and he swears by them.. hear amazing reviews so i am gonna try them out..
Great suggestions guys... Hoping that one of those recommendations will require uncomplicated sharpening. Some seem harder to keep sharp than others.
for the price and the number you will use, I just replace the blades each time I harvest a deer. That way I am sure all is good to go and replacement blades are about 20 bucks for three sets.
x 2 for the montecs, I get good groups out to 50 yrds with them from my excel.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
Muzzy mx3
I recently started using Shuttle T black ops because of the great reviews, Well I can't shoot at the same spot on the target twice and fly very very close to my field points. They are super sharp and very durable. I bought them for a moose hunt that I am leaving for in one week. I will be using them on deer this year also.
Absolutely it's a blanket statement. You need only compare what's on a shelf at bass pro to realize what drives the broadheads segment of the market.Quote:
Originally Posted by fratri
Exit wound size and field point accuracy are the name of the marketing game. There are pros and cons on every head. I hate mechanical heads for the obvious reasons... but they do protect the blades from dulling in the quiver as an example.
The vast majority of people and are going pick something that looks cool or different. The next biggest influence will be their buddy or their father and whatever he uses (which is likely based on a whatever he saw in a magazine or tv ad and very little fact).
If I absolutely couldn't sharpen something then a replacable blade head would be best. But if your going to choose the business end of your arrow. Why not choose what works the best.
My opinion is very strong on this subject but its based of data. ive seen what poor broadhead performance can do first hand and uts not pretty.I'd challenge anyone to use data or fact to prove to me I'm wrong... I won't hold my breath though.
Another good point was made about placement being more important than head design choice and I'd have to agree but the decision of what head you use should require as much thought and time as shooting practice and arrow tuning. It is owed to the animal. I've yet to see a bow that couldn't be tuned perfectly to a 2 blade.
I'm not as worried about if it will work If shot placement is good. I want to know it gives the best results if placement is marginal to poor.
Im a fan of the slick tricks out of my compound. shoot pretty close to my field tips and seem pretty durable, just wish i could a bit bigger cutting diameter
Which ones are you using because they do have grizz trick or something like that with a much bigger cutting diameter.Quote:
Originally Posted by hunter10
Agree with Hunter10 , slick trick! Also agree that mechanical from my experience are not as reliable, have shot at turkey with 3 blade rage which didn't open. Just my opinion ! Good luck this year with whatever you decided on!Quote:
Originally Posted by hunter10
I like my slicktricks I've shot both Griztricks and Vipertricks. I do find out of my setup Griztricks fly better then the Vipertricks
Dan
Montec's here. Tried others and go back to the Montec's.
outback
Check out Dirt Naps. Lifetime warranty
Is there a difference b/w the Montecs? I mean to say is their a Montec for compounds and one for crossbows or are they the same thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
thanks
Don't stress cutting diameter so much. I checked out the broadhead you're are talking about and it's a decent design compared to most. blade sharpness and smoothness is way more important. Narrower heads are less likely to be bent or damaged on the way through. Also being narrower in proves the efficiency of the cutting action. The faster it carries through the cleaner the cut and the brain won't send the signal to start clotting as quickly. Plus the platlettes have a harder time attaching to the tissue which means faster bleeding for longer. It also means a better blood trail as you'll be more likely to pass through. Sometimes less is more.Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeter1
The ultimate recipe is two blades or opposed blades if you must go 4.
3 to 1 ratio in length to width is ideal for mechanical advantage in blade angle. Flying straight and shaving sharp. Single bevel deals with bones and creates a twist through the tissue. Double bevel is just fine too though.
Having 4 blades versus 3 gives you a huge penetration advantage.
I shoot Montecs out of my Compound, my Dad's Xbow and I will shot Montecs on my new Xbow as well. I've shot many different fixed blades just to see which shoots best and the Montecs always gave me the best consistency. As for sharpening them, I have never had an issue...just make sure you sharpen them after each use. So if you miss a shot at game make sure you sharpen your broad head regardless of what it hits. When practicing use the practice broad heads...most companies have a practice broad head...well worth the extra coin.
If you are able, try and get some other broad heads to compare with. Easier and cheaper if you have some friends that shoot xbows as well that you can try their broad head. Good Luck!
What's your method for sharpening? How much tighter are your groups with Montecs in your crossbow versus any 2 blade or 4 blade head. How many arrows are you shooting at a time under the same conditions? What weight of heads do you normally shoot? Do you paper tune without feathers?Quote:
Originally Posted by Zr2Paul
Good video on how to sharpen a broadhead.....I have a tool similar to the second method he shows...works like a charm.
Just one more voice for Slicktricks.
Shot Wasp out of my Excalibur for years because they are low profile and shoot like target points. Actually, I found the Wasps originally with my first crossbow, a really basic Barnett Wildcat years ago. It was really accurate with them compared to other broadheads.
The four blades make a lot of lacerations on the way through, and they do go through. Diameter is over rated I think. As many before have said, it is shot placement that counts. Find something that hits where you point it. If you put the arrow through the ribs and you don't hit too high, you have yourself a deer.
I actually tried a Montec that I had kicking around with both methods and for me neither method gets it sharp enough. Stone method makes the edge angle too steep and the carbide sharpener just gets it close. Tried too finish it on leather and with a steel and just hard to get right near the point basically nullifying the cut on contact section of tip which I'd say is probably the best feature of the Montec.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
just out of curiosity front the many people shooting these slick tricks have ever tried a 2 blade non mechanical head? And what keeps you from trying one out? And also what is the reason you use the slick trick over other broadheads other than how it flys or groups. I'm talking from a lethal intentions standpoint?
1. Simple blade replacement after use. I don't re-sharpen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frozenfew
2. Really good blood trails - pass through every time. (I'm sure they're not unique in this respect)
3. Everything I've shot with them so far has piled up within 60 yards.
4. Confidence gained after experiencing #2 and #3. Probably the most important point.
Since I found a broadhead that gave me confidence in its effectiveness, I haven't felt the need to tinker around or switch. I don't particularly worry about all of the technical jargon. Put it through both lungs and it's dead. Can't make them any deader.
I suppose if I was shooting and someone offered me a practice 2-blade head to try out, I would. I just wouldn't have the same confidence with it when it counts.
Oh yeah, Slick Tricks fly well/group well too :thumbup:
Pretty much sums it up for me too. I will add they fly exactly like my field points. They were recommended to me by a pro and they work well, so why tinker around I have better things to spend my time on than to change something that works well, the deer won't get any deader:)Quote:
Originally Posted by GW11
You sound like your fixated on the sharpening issue with the Montecs.....you may have read or experienced this issue years ago when the first hit the market....they fixed that problem a few years back with the release of the Montec CS (for Carbon Steel)...that hasn't been and issue since then....and as my posted video shows...you can't find an easier way to sharpen a broadhead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frozenfew
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frozenfew
Which one is it lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frozenfew
I shot rage 2 blades with devastating results, until I hit a shoulder. Yes, that's my fault, but I know with a good fixed blade head that shoulder would have made much less of an impact. This year I'm making the switch to the tricks. So far, I have not been able to find a single negative comment on them from a person that actually used them. If anyone has anything bad to say about them, I'd love to hear it!
[QUOTE=sullyy;824709]Which one is it lol.
I shot rage 2 blades with devastating results, until I hit a shoulder. Yes, that's my fault, but I know with a good fixed blade head that shoulder would have made much less of an impact. This year I'm making the switch to the tricks. So far, I have not been able to find a single negative comment on them from a person that actually used them. If anyone has anything bad to say about them, I'd love to hear it![/QUOTE
Yep, if I shoot a deer on the ground they pass through and then bury themselves in a tree, never to be seen again, so don't get too attached to them:)
Hey fishn dad, agree on the 3 blade rage. I've seen where the blades can bind and not open especially if the arrow is shot at an agle to the deer, as one blade deploys before the other 2 jamming the action of the second 2. Its not an issue in broad side shots. The 2 blade rage don't have this issue and the new hypodermics models don't have the goofy rubber o ring it's plastic and snaps into place.
still though at shorter range a fixed blade is tuff to beat, don't get too hung up on the make n model as long as it flys good and u put it where it's supposed to you will have a dead deer.
I think as long as you have consistency with your broadheads, you should be fine no matter what manufacturer you are using. Unless you do penetration tests you will never know how well a broadhead will perform.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frozenfew
Montecs 125
Flies like field points. Easy to sharpen... I sharpen my hunting knife so way not your broad head, just takes practise, I use a regular stone and a very fine one to hone it. Never fround the strap to work. The steel is too think they work better for the barber knife , just my oppion. Cut on contact that's what initionaly sold me on these heads and nothing to replace. Never have to worry about if a replacement blade snaped of in the deer, happened to a friend of mine.
I have douge one out of a tree, sharpened it and good to go.
The first time I bought Montecs I also bought the pre season heads to practice shooting, I even sharpen up those to hunt with, that took more work though ,
Ditto!Quote:
Originally Posted by GW11
I will be shooting the G5 Montec fixed blades this season. Hope to finally arrow a deer this year.
Good vid, thanks for sharing.
Another vote for Slick Tricks (shooting the magnums)
Dirt nap
Surprised no one has mentioned the QAD Exodus. Test after test shows them to outpenetrate slick tricks, and be more durable. I recently setup my moose hunting bow with them. Tuned the bow, and the QAD's flew with field points out to 60yards (never tried further). Can't ask for more then that.
I recently changed to a drop away rest from a whisker biscuit and am now shooting my shuttle t black ops out to 90 yards with field point accuracy, I would expect that if I had more room on my sight rail that they would fly true as far as I could shoot. My buddy's shoot the 4 blade slick tricks with the same results. With a properly tuned bow most fixed blades should have similar results I would expect but I like these shuttle T's because they are very strong, beefy little heads and I am pleased with the results I have seen to this point.
Where can you buy the Shuttle Ts? I went to BPS and no luck... How about the new Cabelas? I'm in King County north of WonderlandQuote:
Originally Posted by klums
Muzzy MX3's are a great BH at a good price.
Not sure who all carries them. Have you heard of bow hunters superstore. They are $30usd which is $20 cheaper than my local spot can get them for. The site has excellent prices on bow hunting gear. I get them shipped to a usa po box so I don't pay international shipping but it may be worth a look.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splaker