Wood Stock Refinishing

Mid winter cabin fever..time to find a project :)

I was at an estate auction yesterday and picked up a gallon of Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) for $2....nice find.

After all these years I have tried a lot of finishes on gun stocks but always go back to the linseed oil, especially on the wood found on the old mil-surp rifles.

So what do you guys use ? What has proven to give you the best feel and protection you want in a oil finish for your old woody ? ..LOL

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps3e20d8a3.jpg

I like the linseed, I really wet it with that first, let dry for a couple days then keep adding light coats, about 6 in total with 0000 steel wool buffing in between coats, then to finish I use tung oil, 2 coats with a couple days dry time between coats

I haven't tried linseed oil yet. The last stock I did was all tung oil. I'll be starting one soon on which I think I'll try spar varnish (cut 50/50 with thinner) as a sealer and as a wet sanding media, then do a tung oil finish.

A French polish.

has anyone tried true oil

Exactly what you bought Mike, only I like to put it on warmed up and rubbed in real well. Let stand for a couple of days before using a fine steel wool before applying each additional coat.

I refinished several of my firearms with Behr Tung Oil. (now mfr discontinued due to VOC's apparently but I have a stash) More than pleased with the end result, very easy to apply and very easy to touch-up if it gets a scratch or something.

One of the main reasons for refinishing was to get to those areas that the factory avoided - like underneath the buttplate. Had water get under there on my Model 6 and it bubbled the high gloss finish.

Linseed oil is all I've ever used.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tom gobble

has anyone tried true oil

---

I've used it on a few double guns as well as the inletting/barrel channels of rifles. I find True-Oil when applied via finger rub effectively seals up the pores in combination with the remnant of wood dust post buffing with 0000 steel wool. I hunt in the rain and snow.....Tru-Oil serves very well as a water repellant.

The following is an old Spanish 12 bore Parkemy my friend had picked up from Tradeex when they imported the very first batch of Basque guns some years back. It was in excellent shape end-to-end. However, over the years in and out of Grouse covers, the stock got messed up with so many dings/gouges that I could no longer bear it and offered to patch that up last year. My amateur efforts resulted in some really dark spots due to over staining (he had managed to create quite a few "shell craters" that had to be steamed out on the buttstock :)).

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...pse14b5a77.jpg

The same gun in one of his trips last Nov ......
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...psb9b45a15.jpg

Birchwood Casey True Oil works great. Has dryers in it and can be applied to a high gloss or satin finish.
I have used it on furniture as well with great results.
Stu

I have used the True Oil, found the finish was harder which was nice, but also found it gave the stock to more 'reflective' sheen..one of those trade off things.

That's right Tru-Oil does cause the wood to shine bright(er). However, buffing with steel wool can subdue that towards a more satin appearance.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sharps4570

That's right Tru-Oil does cause the wood to shine bright(er). However, buffing with steel wool can subdue that towards a more satin appearance.

---

You can also rub it down with "rotten stone " and you wind up with an excellent finish with a nice dull satin sheen.

Yep, tru oil then pumice then rottenstone gives that classic satin oil finish but with all the benefits of essentially a varnish when it comes to sealing out the elements.

I'm refinishing my NS522 .22lr rifle stock with BLO right now.


I have applied 12 coats so far. Do about 1 coat a week. I think its done now, But I think I will still be putting a coat of clear coat or sometype of finish on it because it still doesn't seem sealed. This is my first time refinishing a stock. Its just cheap chinese drift wood but its coming out nice. I can see the grain a bit better with every coat of BLO.

One of the beauties of BLO is that it tends to draw out the grain and get darker with age, something that I like on an old stock. True Oil and the ones with a harder finish don't seem to work the grain as nicely.

I used a Birchwood Cassey stock refinishing Kit for my .45 Kentucky ML last winter and it came out almost orange...It looked 'tradtional' after I looked at some older ML's pictures, but I think I'll sand it off one day and go back to a linseed oil finish on it too.

Attachment 28469
Arrow Wood Finish - a beggar to get but well worth it.
I hand rubbed 28 coats on a raw piece (click on image shown). I'm VERY happy with it.
Just "Google" it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ugo

Attachment 28469
Arrow Wood Finish - a beggar to get but well worth it.

---

I googled it....nice sounding / looking stuff, even a couple youtube testimonials. I had never heard of it, will watch for it the next time I'm down south shopping. Thanks for the tip !!

Only did a few, always with Tung Oil.

I like boiled linseed oil for gun stocks or furniture. Blo drys with a yellowish colour that gives the wood an antique look. Advantages are the antique look, waterproofing capabilities and helps to close cracks and checks in the wood. Disadvantages; it is a soft finish.

i apply several coats of carnauba wax once the oil is dry.

Roe+

Here's another where I also used Tru-Oil ....

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps6aaf4jct.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...psxwgx2wnz.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sharps4570

Here's another where I also used Tru-Oil ....

---

Beautiful wood work, love to colour. ..but....that's way to much sheen for me on a hunting rifle. I like my wood stocks with, what some guys would call, a 'dull' finish.

I should try that on the plaques (apple wood) I use for my racks, it would work nice with that application.

I concur, it's too much sheen. I have that kinda coat on only two of my "wet weather" shotguns.....the Grouse don't care. :) The rest wear dull coats.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jaycee

You can also rub it down with "rotten stone " and you wind up with an excellent finish with a nice dull satin sheen.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Frosty

Yep, tru oil then pumice then rottenstone gives that classic satin oil finish but with all the benefits of essentially a varnish when it comes to sealing out the elements.

---

Where can one get hold of rotten stone? Lee Valley type of store?

I picked up this stock refinishing kit (new) by Outers at a gun show a couple years back for $5....I haven't tried it yet to see what colour the stain/oil is, I should give it a try on my .22 Remington stock just for fun. These kits are sure handy.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...psbfbb4ba0.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roe+

I like boiled linseed oil for gun stocks or furniture. Blo drys with a yellowish colour that gives the wood an antique look. Advantages are the antique look, waterproofing capabilities and helps to close cracks and checks in the wood. Disadvantages; it is a soft finish.

i apply several coats of carnauba wax once the oil is dry.

Roe+

---

Maybe I'll just do that then? buff some wax into the stock and see how that looks. I was thinking of doing a Krylon clear coat rattle can....Was too afraid I'd wreck it after all the work I've put into already.

The only finish that I have been happy with was BLO and whatever Ruger used on my #1

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sharps4570

Where can one get hold of rotten stone? Lee Valley type of store?

---

You can buy 1lb containers of pumice and rottenstone on line from Lee Valley, it ships from Ottawa. You would need 2f, 4f and rottenstone for rubbing back tru-oil to a satin finish.

Heres a quick vid on how to do it .......

http://youtu.be/LJ6PEk_OXBY

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sharps4570

Where can one get hold of rotten stone? Lee Valley type of store?

---

I have picked it up at "Home Hardware " a small [ came in a box] lasts a long time .

I just finished an old cooey 60 with tru oil. I too not a fan of the shine, but buffing out with 0000 steel wool works good. I did however put on 9 coats to get the finish I wanted.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Frosty

http://youtu.be/LJ6PEk_OXBY

---

Thanks for that link, nice to know I can put a protective surface on something but still dull it down....:thumbup:

Good thread, after reading this I went to CTC got what I needed and oiled all my wood stocks last night. I also installed a composite stock on my Browning A5 to save the 57 year old wood which is in near mint condition (oiled the original wood too). It was very easy to do, don't know why the factory would recommend a gunsmith do the install when it removal is part of a complete cleaning anyway to get at the spring inside. As a bonus the composite stock came with a recoil pad which will help with the slugs.

I never polished between coats of Arrow Wood Finish because I too prefer the satin finish as opposed to glossy. Didn't need that sanding/rottenstone BUT I'm glad I saw that Midway USA video. .....learned something new.
Thanks!
Does waxing the stock not make it slippery? Not sure I'd want a slippery gun stock. The whole point of checkering is to enhance the feel/grip.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ugo

I never polished between coats of Arrow Wood Finish because I too prefer the satin finish as opposed to glossy. Didn't need that sanding/rottenstone BUT I'm glad I saw that Midway USA video. .....learned something new.
Thanks!
Does waxing the stock not make it slippery? Not sure I'd want a slippery gun stock. The whole point of checkering is to enhance the feel/grip.

---

no in my experience, it just puts a little harder she'll on it and keeps the water out

Roe+

Here is a question....I just inhereited what appears to be a very old muzzeloader...has the wooden dowel ram rod and double barrell...the stock is in decent shape but it has some nice engravings that are rather tarnished as well as the barrels could use some tidying up.....I am not planning on firing this gun but want it more for a decorative wall hanger....it also came with a very nice looking copper with dog engraved front powder flask.

would you refinish this gun????? and if so how would I go about doing so having never done it before.

sorry to OP maybe I should start my own thread on this one!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by twostroke

.the stock is in decent shape but it has some nice engravings that are rather tarnished as well as the barrels could use some tidying up.....

---

I'm not sure what you mean by the engravings are tarnished....are they on a brass plate or into the wood.

If your undecided as how to refinish it, then get a can of Antique wood Stripper and use it to slowly strip away the grime a layer at a time till you get down to the wood without damaging the surface and see what you're dealing with.

sorry MP the engravings are on brass or metal inlays on the stock....I dont have any info on the gun and only name etc I can make out off it is the last name SMITH engraved and looks like upland dog engravings which are very similar to the copper powder flask as well.........prob a dumb question but not much of an antique gun guru being a double barrel and given the upland engravings I woulda thought it would be an old shotgun...it has the double percussion hammers on it but also a wooden dowel ram rod characteristic of a muzzeloader lol.....i tried to google what I could but couldnt find anything.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MikePal

I'm not sure what you mean by the engravings are tarnished....are they on a brass plate or into the wood.

If your undecided as how to refinish it, then get a can of Antique wood Stripper and use it to slowly strip away the grime a layer at a time till you get down to the wood without damaging the surface and see what you're dealing with.

---

I started my own thread as to not highjack this one......maybe I can get some experts to shed some light for me.

thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ugo

I never polished between coats of Arrow Wood Finish because I too prefer the satin finish as opposed to glossy. Didn't need that sanding/rottenstone BUT I'm glad I saw that Midway USA video. .....learned something new.
Thanks!
Does waxing the stock not make it slippery? Not sure I'd want a slippery gun stock. The whole point of checkering is to enhance the feel/grip.

---

I use Conservators Wax from Lee Valley. Its less expensive than the Renaissance Wax that some aficionados recommend. I use it both on wood and steel, particularly to protect CCH colours. A small can is enough to for years. I apply it VERY sparingly to checkering and use a soft tooth brush to work it in and clean the points.