Conditioning a dog for hunting season

Hi Guys,
I have a welsh springer who typically moves at a fairly slow pace, even when hunting which I like. He will get his burst going after being cooped up for the work day. In this heat he tires quickly and I don't push him at all so he gets walked on and off leash and can run a large area every day and swam (light water work) a couple times a week.
I have found that once fall comes and we are hunting more often he can get pretty tired working a pheasant field or hunting rabbits (hope to do some grouse hunting this year) and I would like to get him into a bit better shape to maintain his speed.
I will not be doing anything until it cools down substantially but would like some ideas on what you do during the early fall to get them ready aside from training.
Thanks in advance

morning like today was cool enough, no need to wait for the winter.
Swimming is great and low impact on joints.
I run dogs with bicycle, make sure it's safe and don't run them on gravel - it's too hard on the pads, tears them up.
I know people use rollerblades too.

how old is your dog ,,I run my behind the atv or the truck the hound stay in great shape all year .you can run them early in the morning at least 3 to 4 times a week ,I like to keep them in shape all year then trying to get them back into shape in the fall ,,Dutch

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Originally Posted by Sudsee

Hi Guys,
I have a welsh springer who typically moves at a fairly slow pace, even when hunting which I like. He will get his burst going after being cooped up for the work day. In this heat he tires quickly and I don't push him at all so he gets walked on and off leash and can run a large area every day and swam (light water work) a couple times a week.
I have found that once fall comes and we are hunting more often he can get pretty tired working a pheasant field or hunting rabbits (hope to do some grouse hunting this year) and I would like to get him into a bit better shape to maintain his speed.
I will not be doing anything until it cools down substantially but would like some ideas on what you do during the early fall to get them ready aside from training.
Thanks in advance

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Sudsee if this is the pace the Welsh Springer typically works at more swimming or running beside your bike for conditioning may be best. Some will put a dog pack on there dog with a little extra weight for conditioning as well. At least this way the weight is distributed not to injure your dog. I would only add a 1 to 3lbs pounds until your dog gets use to the weight over weeks of training. I would typically train my sled dogs pulling a weighted training cart two days in a row with a day off. After about a month I would do training days with the weight removed from cart to do more free running and stretching out . The cart weight training muscles them up nicely as would a weighted dog pack. Free running in front or beside a bicycle allows them to stretch out and cover ground after your initial month of weight training. You can also begin to verbally control the speed of your dog by using simple voice commands. You will notice a big difference in your dog but another thing to remember is genetics plays a big part in it as well. I have worked show dog bloodlines(Siberian Husky) in harness and they do not come even close to working Siberian Husky bloodlines. I would think this would apply to most working dogs.

Basically use common sense while training in the heat. But your question was for Fall Training.

Good Luck

Thing is if you want them to work hard 8 hours while hunting you got to exercise them the same in the off season. This time of year its hard as you only got a bit of time first thing in the morning and latter at night before the skitters get to bad. Swimming is good in the heat of the day. As we go on and days start cooling off exercise hours can be extended. Walks are ok however really doesn't build up stamina. I still like working them in the rough. I'm lucky as I got a pretty long and wide hydro right of way that's scrub and high grass that gives her a good work out.

Very few people can train dogs during the summer months except swimming to avoid heat stress. But I have also seen some working dogs handle the heat very well because of genetics. Some bloodlines I would avoid adding to my breeding program for the main reason they could not genetically handle heat well. So it would depend on your breed of dog and known genetics as well.

I have found frequency is far more important than duration. The dog or Hound will be a lot further ahead with 3, 2hr workouts spaced out thru the week than 1 6hr workout on the weekend. This regime will build a Hound up rather than break them down. This type of program helps fight dehydration and kidney problems. I find the biggest factor with stamina in the heat is the Hounds weight. Generally speaking, the physique of a Kenyan long distance runner is what your after.The downside is you might have to suffer the slings and arrows of the "do gooders" with comments like "your dogs to skinny" or worse "do you starve your dog to make it hunt harder".

We train through the summer early morning or after diner not to much during the high heat time of the day. short sessions of land on hot days and the dogs are staked out in the shade to get their core temperature cooled off. if we end up training during high heat we check the water temp to ensure the water is not to warm shallow ponds heat up fast and can raise your dogs temperature quickly you may think your dog is safe but can possibly be over heating while in the water.

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Originally Posted by 3 black dogs

We train through the summer early morning or after diner not to much during the high heat time of the day. short sessions of land on hot days and the dogs are staked out in the shade to get their core temperature cooled off. if we end up training during high heat we check the water temp to ensure the water is not to warm shallow ponds heat up fast and can raise your dogs temperature quickly you may think your dog is safe but can possibly be over heating while in the water.

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X's 2!

Totally agree, need to be careful with water temp, dogs can come out hot.

Colour of dog is another factor in heat absorption, my black dogs heat up quicker than my yellows.

I still train in some heat but keep distances shorter, NOT in high cover and fewer retrieves. Pick your times and always have cool fresh water.

Chris , you'll remember the National in Hamilton, dogs lived in air conditioning when they weren't on the line....the heat of July!

Don't forget to watch out for that blue algae. With the hot temps/humidity it is expected to be a big problem in Aug.

Thanks everybody. We have been training late in the evenings. He also gets visits from other dogs and they run around pretty good together. I may try out the bike riding however I am nervous about his feet.

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Originally Posted by Sudsee

I may try out the bike riding however I am nervous about his feet.

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Just remember .... if the pavement is too hot for your feet, it's going to be too hot for him!

Wow.....some GREAT stuff on conditioning! I don't "run" my dogs in the heat simply because it can do more damage than good although pointers are genetically superior in this regard which is why they are so prevalent in the southern USA as well as fierce competitors in major events which are held under grueling conditions. As was already mentioned, colour plays a huge part but genetics even more-so.
Swimming is an excellent form of conditioning in our heat.
When I was competing, I used to "road" my dogs. This is again supported by an earlier comment that shared, "Frequent short workouts rather than longer draining sessions."
Weight training for dogs is something I developed to give my little 26 pound Brittany an edge over those muscular big pointers that are roaded from horseback. I found it interesting how many of those pointers/setters were in incredible shape. The other observation was that their necks were THE most muscular part of their body. ??? The dynamics of roading where the load is angled above the dog is.....compromised.
That said, I do not support putting ANY weight directly on the dog's body either. It might be OK for foo-foo dogs walking in the park but not for our relentless athletes. At worst it's an accident waiting to happen. In the least, it will load their joints unnaturally which may come back to haunt you later on.
As a side-bar, note that as much as you condition your dog here in Ontario, if you were to take that dog to south Texas you would be disappointed at how quickly your dog will fatigue. Acclimatization is a big part of endurance. Temp, humidity, altitude (to sea level) and the inherent nasty local cover will humble the most fit dog/handler. You almost need to have the dog(s) down there well in advance to adjust.

Ugo the weighted dog pack works extremely well and I support it 100% and know many people that use it today. The off season for sledders will use dog packs for outdoor activities such as camping and is used extensively throughout the world. You would not use the dog pack on puppies because of the main reason soft joints and still growing. I have trained many dogs in harness starting at six months of age with mainly cart training (short training runs). It is a gradual process and great care must be taken not to hurt the pup and a trainer of sled dogs should be consulted that have the experience(mentor). Weight training is a must for conditioning working animals such as ones competing in sprint racing, mid-distance or long distance. My labs in the very near future will be weight trained for conditioning because I have experienced the difference it can make in sled dog competition. RUFFWEAR is a fantastic dog pack manufacturer that many people I know use. Check it out.

Sudsee, have you shaved him down? In the summer I give Sadie a once-over with a #10 clipper, which leaves just about nothing. It makes a big difference in the pace they can set and sustain in the heat.

Re short sessions daily, I think of this just like human athletes: you don't train for a marathon by running marathons at your race pace. You run shorter distances and you do most of your runs at an easy pace. Regular exercise throughout the summer is going to keep that base fitness there so the dog can adapt to longer and more intense exercise more easily and with less chance of injury.

I am facing this problem myself this year, as I've been away most of the summer and the dog hasn't had her usual training.

Haven't shaved him right down, Welsh. I have trimmed him a lot since winter but I have been thinking about shaving him right down as he absolutely hates the heat. He stays out in a shaded kennel most days so I would think he should be conditioned to it but in the middle of the day he would rather be inside.

In the summer, swimming is the answer. I have a black dog, he doesn't handle heat... at all. Just like me lol.

Thanks Yellow Dog. I looked at the product albeit briefly. It wouldn't address my needs as a conditioning tool for a number of reasons. One being that, wearing anything of this nature when conditioning in the summer heat is counter productive for my personal training regimen. Secondly, I'm not sure - even in cooler weather - what this item accomplishes?
There are strategic muscle groups that I like to target when conditioning. That's why I mentioned that traditional roading produces massive neck muscles. Not really sure how that serves a bird dog's stamina?
Weight training is not predominantly about cardio. That is a completely separate process that I like to dovetail into the weight training. The ideal goal is to have a dog that is very muscled (which can actually slow a dog down). I then increase the cardio and let the intersection of the 2 find that dynamic peak for a given dog. Typically, as the weight training is weaned off, the cardio is ramped up. When you get it just right......it's something to behold! Power, grace, endurance which ultimately means your dog can use his olfactory senses more efficiently which usually translates into more finds!
If you look at my website "Photo Gallery", there is a Gordon setter - 2nd from the top that was one of the last CKC Open Field Trial Champions here in Ontario. Even though he has a medium coat, you can see the results of the aforementioned program by way of his musculature. This Gordon also had placements in OSD horseback stakes in American Field against pointers. The greatest challenge with him at trials was producing his finds. There were times when I would find the bird a LONG way from his nose. Not any easy task when you are trying to find a pen-raised Bobwhite.

One thing bot mentioned yet is getting your dogs' Thyroid tested. If you say your dog fatigues easily, there could be more to it than just unconditioned muscles.
I would do this first to rule any thryroid issues out ( wouldn't hurt to get his ticker checked too) and then focus on the conditioning.

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Originally Posted by Ugo

Thanks Yellow Dog. I looked at the product albeit briefly. It wouldn't address my needs as a conditioning tool for a number of reasons. One being that, wearing anything of this nature when conditioning in the summer heat is counter productive for my personal training regimen. Secondly, I'm not sure - even in cooler weather - what this item accomplishes?
There are strategic muscle groups that I like to target when conditioning. That's why I mentioned that traditional roading produces massive neck muscles. Not really sure how that serves a bird dog's stamina?
Weight training is not predominantly about cardio. That is a completely separate process that I like to dovetail into the weight training. The ideal goal is to have a dog that is very muscled (which can actually slow a dog down). I then increase the cardio and let the intersection of the 2 find that dynamic peak for a given dog. Typically, as the weight training is weaned off, the cardio is ramped up. When you get it just right......it's something to behold! Power, grace, endurance which ultimately means your dog can use his olfactory senses more efficiently which usually translates into more finds!
If you look at my website "Photo Gallery", there is a Gordon setter - 2nd from the top that was one of the last CKC Open Field Trial Champions here in Ontario. Even though he has a medium coat, you can see the results of the aforementioned program by way of his musculature. This Gordon also had placements in OSD horseback stakes in American Field against pointers. The greatest challenge with him at trials was producing his finds. There were times when I would find the bird a LONG way from his nose. Not any easy task when you are trying to find a pen-raised Bobwhite.

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Hi Ugo, yes you are right and was thinking more for the fall addressing Sudsee question. It is a tool worn to aid in conditioning in the off season when typically sled dogs lay around(summer heat). For someone like yourself to train your dogs to a much higher caliber then no. I have competed against many dog teams and also trained dogs that were out of pointer bloodlines. The most famous and well known being the scandinavian english pointers. Fifty years of selective breeding went into to these animals and they set all the sprint racing speed records. The pointers are superior period ! Even the ones they are not trained and conditioned properly can still run circles around the traditional husky breeds.

Yes I am very aware weight training is not predominantly about cardio. It is a combination of weight training starting in the fall breaking down that old muscle and rebuilding it slowly and then switching over to cardio. I have done this many times over many training years. It is not productive to do weight training for months on end and then try to run a sprint race. My training methods are similiar to what you have described but I use a cart called a Risdon Rig . I then switch over to a much lighter Risdon for cardio training. We ultimately are are aiming for the same outcome as you have described, power ,grace and endurance. No different from a free running dog to many running in a dog team in unison . I always enjoy your posts.

Yellow Dog, I must look into that Risdon. I'm always learning! Thank you for sharing.
Yes, the key to my program is to ensure the dog NEVER lopes or runs with the weight training equipment. This is a sure-fire recipe for disaster as the stride can fall out of rhythm and if the leg is fully extended when the load is max, you are looking at anything from a torn muscle to ligament/joint issues! There is a great responsibility to my system and if you take your eyes off the dogs you are asking for trouble. You need to watch their stride, their breathing, their pads, etc. And, you cannot use this system on a paved or gravel road....at all.
The cardio workout is where they can let fly but no load here.
I remember being up north on holiday but I didn't want to lose the conditioning of my/customer's dogs in advance of the upcoming season. So, since my friend had an ATV (we were up near Sundridge), I jury-rigged a roading system - one more typical of the ones you see advertised in dog mags where the bars are secured to the ATV front and back and the dogs are secured through a harness via chains to said bars. I took them literally for miles on logging roads. I was SO excited at how well they were doing.
When I returned home and resumed my roading here with my system, I was devastated! They roaded about 35 minutes then were completely gassed!! There are systems and there are systems..... Man, did I have some catching up to do! Still it was better than nothing.
By keeping the dogs at a spritely walk, you get an even/balanced work-out on each individual leg/muscle group. In fact, some dogs pull so hard, they lean (dogs are left footed or right footed just like humans too and have a favourite side).

Just wondering regarding the swimming: What distance do you have your dog swim?
I have a nice setup where I throw from a cliff (to get the bumper farther out) and the dog has to run around to get down, swim and climb back up (exercise with a heavy dokken). Not too bad, but it's always the same (not that the dogs seems to mind).
Yesterday, I was wondering if there is any (cheap) alternative to a zinger winger?

I dont measure. I throw bumpers and all that but he also free swims. We were away at a cottage the past week and my dog loves to swim with everyone. We'd go out in the boat and swim in the middle of the lake for an hour or more and he'd be fine the whole time just swimming big circles around everyone.