Trolling motor rewire question

Hey guys, I have an electric trolling motor that I want to extend the cables on by rewiring it. I've done the voltage drop calculations and I should be good for 12ft @ 6 gauge. I've read online that a cheap option is to use Booster cables, picked up a set from Canadian tire for $20. They are copper aluminum strand mix.
I called a store that sells marine wire and they quote me over $100 for 24ft of 8 gauge.

Anyone see any reason I should just use the Booster cables? I only paid 80 for the motor so I'm trying to keep the cost down.

This is for use on an inflatable so I disconnect it every time anyways and I really don't expect more than 2 years of use out of it before I get a real boat.

Also if anyone know somewhere I could borrow a crimping tool for 6 gauge wire that would be awesome, not sure how I'm gonna do that.

Thanks

i ran new wire for brotherinlaws boat same 6 gauge but put 50 amp resetable marine breaker by battery if you can solder and heatshrink the connectors its ok to use booster cable wire, if no crimps hillbilly method of tapping crimp down with hammer and small punch ,solder will hold wire in place.

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Originally Posted by deerslayer

i ran new wire for brotherinlaws boat same 6 gauge but put 50 amp resetable marine breaker by battery if you can solder and heatshrink the connectors its ok to use booster cable wire, if no crimps hillbilly method of tapping crimp down with hammer and small punch ,solder will hold wire in place.

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Thanks for the info, I'm just going to leave the clamps on the ends and hook them up the battery when I use it, the other ends use quick connect terminals and are inside the motor. I was looking at the circuit breaker but I saw the minn Kota one for $60 as the only option, just didn't make sense cost wise for me.

you should be able to source wire at better prices than that. "marine" is not necessary. I agree with deerslayer, avoid the crimps, solder and heat shrink the interfaces.

You can also get copper stranded welding cable, rubber coated and much more flexible. You can get it at Princess Auto.

Thanks I'm going to go by princess auto tomorrow and see what they have, any idea where to get the connectors from? I'm having a tough time finding a quick disconnect terminal for 6 gauge.

So your goal is to extend the cable length. Why do need a quick connect? Cut the clips off the motor cable, and splice in whatever length you need from the booster cable. All you'll still need is a butt splice and some sleeving. If you are going to solder as well make sure you don't use plumbing solder. The flux is too corrosive.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by smitty55

So your goal is to extend the cable length. Why do need a quick connect? Cut the clips off the motor cable, and splice in whatever length you need from the booster cable. All you'll still need is a butt splice and some sleeving. If you are going to solder as well make sure you don't use plumbing solder. The flux is too corrosive.

Cheers

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I thought it would be best to just run a new length of wire rather than splice 2 different sizes since I have the full 12' anyways. and since it's constantly in and out of the boat, van, garage it's probably better it's one run so it doesn't get caught on something and separate or risk the joint getting wet In the bottom of the boat.

This is the type of connector I need to connect it to the motor :
http://hainesenterprises.com/images/...ssconnects.jpg

The weird thing is I can't even find any for 6awg to buy online anywhere!

I've never seen qd spade connectors any larger than 10ga. Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you have a 12ft booster cable could you not then just hardwire the one end into the tm and just leave the alligator clips on the other end for the battery?

Cheers

Leave the original wires on the motor. They will be pure copper and you can solder a ring connector to the other end. Get ring connectors at an automotive supplier. Stay away from those aluminium cables. You cannot solder them and need a hydraulic press to make a proper crimped connection.
Go to an automotive radio shop and get some heavy (#8 will probably do) copper cable from them. You can then solder a ring connector to one end and bolt these to the ring connectors you soldered to original cable. Heat shrink them after trimming the bolts as short as possible. The other end can have whatever you need to match up to your battery.
You are only running a 12volt motor that will have a short run of exposed wiring, not an industrial or residential install with 200' runs of enclosed cable.
I have #6 copper booster cables on my 40lb Minkota and they work great.

If you go to Princess, you can buy a longer spool of small wire cheaper and then just use two strands. It's way easier to work with than trying to crimp 6AWG. Provided the wire is exposed, you really don't have any safety issue, you just lose a bit of power and efficiency if you go to small.

If the wire is hidden or covered, then you can have a safety issue as it will wear quickly when the insulation is warm and you can't see if there are hot-spots.

If you have access to it, use a high-power soldering iron instead of crimps, you will drastically lower your resistance. You can also get glue-lined heat shrink tubing to slide over the wire and then set it with a torch. The glue will seal the joint water tight.

I can tell Scarkner has done this a few times and knows what works. Even a propane torch can be used to solder those crimp connectors. My 3000lb winch on the rear of my bike is powered by 2/10 speaker wire, with both strands used for positive and another separate wire for the ground. A set of quick connects to match the set on my bike booster cables lets me move the winch around. worked fine for 11 years now(and my rear winch gets more use than the one in front)
#10 is rated to carry 30 amps all day long without heating up, so using both conductors gives over 60 amp capacity continuous or 100 for short periods.
Just take a look at the main cable to your car battery.....probably a #8 or 6..on a newer vehicle

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Originally Posted by scarkner

If you go to Princess, you can buy a longer spool of small wire cheaper and then just use two strands. It's way easier to work with than trying to crimp 6AWG. Provided the wire is exposed, you really don't have any safety issue, you just lose a bit of power and efficiency if you go to small.

If the wire is hidden or covered, then you can have a safety issue as it will wear quickly when the insulation is warm and you can't see if there are hot-spots.

If you have access to it, use a high-power soldering iron instead of crimps, you will drastically lower your resistance. You can also get glue-lined heat shrink tubing to slide over the wire and then set it with a torch. The glue will seal the joint water tight.

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Thanks, this is turning out to be a more difficult and tool heavy task than i thought! Not having a soldering iron or crimping tools is making me thing im going to just stick with what i've got(6ft of 8 Gauge). Its an inflatable so i take the motor and battery out every time and it just kind of sits in the back wire coiled on the ground. I was hoping to move it forward a little to help balance the weight (me, motor and battery in the back already). the wire gets pretty toasty already so i was thinking that if I doubled the length I should up the size, on max its outputting 55amps and its my only motor so i can run it for 20-30 mins to run to my first spot.
If i use the 2 strand option am I crimping both strands into the same connector at the ends?

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Originally Posted by smitty55

I've never seen qd spade connectors any larger than 10ga. Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you have a 12ft booster cable could you not then just hardwire the one end into the tm and just leave the alligator clips on the other end for the battery?

Cheers

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The terminals on the inside of the motor are the male quick disconnect, i dont have alot of electrical experience but seems the best thing would be to use the correct spade connector, not sure how a secure connection could be made otherwise.

Thanks for all the help

Stick to your original option using the booster cables, too many options and will just make things complicated....the booster cable will work just fine, soldier the other ends direct to the QD spades on the motor or soldier or butt splice the existing motor cable to the booster cable and heat shrink.

If your existing cables are getting warm then they ARE too small. Are they heating the whole length or just at the ends (terminals)?
If you double up on the cables then get them both under the same terminal if you can. Seldom do you find spade terminals that will carry 55 amps for any extended time. Remember that on those series motors, the current increases as the speed drops due to a loads...

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Originally Posted by phoenix

I thought it would be best to just run a new length of wire rather than splice 2 different sizes since I have the full 12' anyways. and since it's constantly in and out of the boat, van, garage it's probably better it's one run so it doesn't get caught on something and separate or risk the joint getting wet In the bottom of the boat.

This is the type of connector I need to connect it to the motor :
http://hainesenterprises.com/images/...ssconnects.jpg

The weird thing is I can't even find any for 6awg to buy online anywhere!

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That's cause they don't make them..

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Originally Posted by patvetzal

If your existing cables are getting warm then they ARE too small. Are they heating the whole length or just at the ends (terminals)?
If you double up on the cables then get them both under the same terminal if you can. Seldom do you find spade terminals that will carry 55 amps for any extended time. Remember that on those series motors, the current increases as the speed drops due to a loads...

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They are warm just near the terminals even melted the wire close to the ring, but i think its because it seems like the ring terminal looked a bit corroded. And the speed switch stopped working (day 1 of 7 day camping trip) so i had it wired to always on top speed so as soon as i put on the positive terminal it was on, connection was not great since it was just sitting on the bolt. I cut back the cable a bit and put on a new clamp only used it once but seems better.

Its a bass pro Prowler motor so i had to wait for a part to come from the US, (got them to ship to store as shipping was going to be $50 US for a $20 part) finally came in and its installed now.

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Originally Posted by patvetzal

Remember that on those series motors, the current increases as the speed drops due to a loads...

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Can you explain that a little more? Here is the current draw info i could get on the motor.
- Speed 1F 11A/13A
- Speed 2F 13A/17A
- Speed 3F 20A/25A
- Speed 4F 24A/30A
- Speed 5F 45A/55A
- Speed 1R 20A
- Speed 2R 45A.

An easier way to say/understand it is that the amperage increases with the power output of the motor. Been fifty years since I did my schooling so I forget the details, but it is like a starter motor. If it is spinning fast with full voltage, the current is lower. A bit of low voltage from bad connections or weak battery sends the current thru the roof, and it's current that generates heat.
Starting Tuesday Sept 22 Princess has deals on welding cable and booster cables. You are still stuck with the spade connectors though. Might be good if you can find someone to replace them with something else.....A shop that does starter rebuilds might be a spot to start....

Glad to hear you found the issue. Gotta love wiring when it goes south.

Cheers Henry

+1 i get pretty well everything for my boat electrical at princess auto. just use heat shrink and a good breaker. 30amp for 12 volt of 50amp for 24v. should be able to get those for about 10-15$ a piece.

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Originally Posted by Fisherman

You can also get copper stranded welding cable, rubber coated and much more flexible. You can get it at Princess Auto.

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Originally Posted by Floren Lukatsky

+1 i get pretty well everything for my boat electrical at princess auto. just use heat shrink and a good breaker. 30amp for 12 volt of 50amp for 24v. should be able to get those for about 10-15$ a piece.

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The breaker put in line should match the the motor Lbs, statement above would be valid if the motor was 70lb, check minn kota website for breaker size. I also read this statement and it is so wrong in all ways....

([COLOR=#333333]#10 is rated to carry 30 amps all day long without heating up, so using both conductors gives over 60 amp capacity continuous or 100 for short periods )

Always remember the breaker is not to protect the equipment, it's really ment to protect the wire from catching fire if under sized.

i should have mentioned i dont wire inline i wire in series. and always use minimum of 8guage wire. just follow minn kota specs.