What make of dog food u guys feeding ur sporting dogs?
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What make of dog food u guys feeding ur sporting dogs?
Kibbles and bits. :) Actually RedPaw for my lab and Diamond Extreme Athlete for my Springer.
Pro Plan Savor for 7+ year olds... 28/12 , whole chicken first ingredient
$57.00 for 15 kilograms
Iams large breed smart puppy
Acana grasslands
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Fromm
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Now. Fresh
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80lbs all muscle. Never a stomach issue.
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Ol Roy.
Orijen
Lifetime Fish & Oatmeal made in Ontario.
I tried a few premium brands & this is the only one my Lab has no digestive issues with.
Acana Grasslands
I have been using Royal Canin Puppy as my vet recommended. I am now transitioning him to TLC Whole Life Natural which the breeder recommends. It is a Canadian product made in New Hamburg, ON
Performatrin Ultra grain free for my German Shepherd. I had her on other local primo stuff but once I switched years ago no more skin or stomach issues. Pick a good food and stick to it. Also look into the raw diet if done properly its awesome for the pooch. Mine gets a changeup every now and then Ill give her raw chicken and vegetables like carrots and spinach sometimes mix in some oatmeal or rice for carbs
Acana Wild Prairie:
http://acana.com/our-foods/regionals/wild-prairie/
Kirkland Salmon and sweet potato. Used the Ultra for 6 month's. Knucklehead never digested well and coat was dry. Tried a few other premiums didn't work out well. The Kirkland food we have him on know is digesting well and his coat has improved a great deal. Breed Pudelpointer....fear the beard!
Thanks i will experiment and see how it goes.
Acana Wild Prairie
I throw in raw bones and raw meaty bones now and again, some cooked and raw scraps here and there, raw and cooked veggies, fresh fruit sometimes.
I also toss in every couple of days raw egg, plain yogurt and raw garlic ( debatable and yes could effect a certain dog negatively/toxic so do always consult your vet or breeder first).
Very interesting and nice to see the high quality diets been fed to our dogs.
Pretty good selection, two stores in your area and Canadian owned
http://www.globalpetfoods.com/brands-we-carry
Orijen. Switch between Red meats and fish each new bag
Pro plan
Loyal - Performance. Two ~60lbs dogs eating 2 cups/dog/day.
I also feed loyall. Quality food for a great price.
Pro Plan performance, 20-30 keeps my dog hunting all day in any weather condition and keeps him from looking like a skeleton by seasons end.
Loyal - Performance. 50 pound dog. Eats 2 cups a day sometimes 3. About $ 60 a bag. 15kg bag lasts about a month.
I rotate through all the Acana Regionals (Grasslands, Ranchlands, Wild Prairie ) other than the fish formula (Pacifica) because she doesn't seem to like it. All Canadian, no grain, no imported ingredients, and no recalls.
I also throw in frozen turkey necks and chicken carcasses a few times a week.
First I've heard of that Sharon. I've heard/read about high protein diets causing issues but they seem to be discounted as myths. I've also read that older dogs require more protein, but that could just be a myth as well. Most of the protein from Acana comes from meat, so I don't see that as being a negative and I've never had any issues after feeding it for over 20 years now.
The nice thing is you can try it and if it doesn't work you can return it for a full refund.
Thanks Rick , but I wouldn't know if that much protein was harmful to the old girl.( wouldn't be able to see the effect.) I want to feed all 3 the same food so that's why I'm wondering.
I'll talk to the vet about it next time I'm in.
Is your vet a nutritionist Sharon? If so, you're lucky to have that kind of info at hand. I know some vets are nutritionists but I believe most aren't.
The only advice I can offer is that I know a nutritionist who says Acana is fine, in fact she totes it as being one of the best. She feeds it to her old dogs.
Good luck!
My vet tells me everytime he sees the dog to keep feeding him Acana. Dog is hard as a rock even if he is way above breed standard weight wise. Standard for a male Brittany is @ 38lbs and Tucker is 47lbs with no fat at all. Little bugger can run 30 kms in a morning without even trying. No doubt many other foods will do the same but I see no reason to change.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psc71a767c.jpg
Definitely a beautiful dog. :)
I think you are wise reducing the protein intake Sharon in your senior dog. I would think that just like humans, it probably gets harder and harder for the liver and kidneys to break down large amounts of protein.
Sharon .... We feed ProPlan Performance / Sport (30/20) .... Have for years and our old guy who will be 13 in February continues to do well on it. He is not as active as he has been in the past, but he continues to maintain a healthy weight, great coat, and works well with his system and the vet is very pleased with his health when he is in for a visit. Have thought of changing to a senior diet, but as PPP has been designed as an all life stages food, out thoughts have been why mess with what apparently is working very well.
Naturally like feeding any food regardless of the dogs age you want to find the best food that best suits your dog and their health!
Sharon mentioned she wants one brand of food to feed all her dogs. I assume the senior food isn't what she wants to feed her younger dogs.
I did a little reading on protein (you got me into it Sharon) and it appears most of the hype on high protein foods are myths. As long as that protein comes from a quality source, dogs, which are carnivores will handle it just fine. If your dog has a previous condition (say a kidney disorder for example) then that's a different story and a lower protein diet may be called for.
Acana is an all life stages food as well, fyi.
PS, Sharon, if you'd like me to put you in contact with that dog nutrionist, and you want to pick her brain a little, I'd be happy to.
You're very astute Rick. I should have been more clear - that little buggra terrier will get proper food for a 2 year old. :)
Done a lot or reading on protein and Senior dogs . It would appear as you said, that Senior dogs needs lots of protein for muscles strength too - no harm unless..............
"The very early research that pointed a finger at protein as being a cause of kidney failure in dogs wasn't even done on dogs! It was done on rats fed unnatural diets for a rodent -- diets high in protein. (Were we tinkering with Nature during these “tests”?) Rats have difficulty excreting excess protein in their diets because they are essentially plant eaters, not meat eaters.
Dogs are quite able to tolerate diets with protein levels higher than 30 percent on a dry weight basis. Dogs are meat eaters; that's how Nature made them! Rats are not. So some of the early research on rats was assumed to be true for dogs ... and the myth of "too much protein in a dog's diet causes kidney damage" was started. And just like any seemingly valid rumor or assertion, it derived a life of its own and is only recently being accepted as untrue." Dr Dunn
Going to switch to Acana Senior. 33/14
I visited the store to day to check out prices and it was on the shelf.
$67.00 for 13 kg @ 33/14
Wonder what the reasoning is behind such high protein yet low fat content?
From what I read a Senior dog needs good protein to keep muscles strong, but not the fat as they are usually less active and will get fat if fat percent is high.
I would think older more sedentary dogs don't need as many calories that the fat provides?
Makes sense
I use Orijen
Acana - Sport and Agility (35/22), when I still fed kibble.
$61/bag - 2yr old lasted 5.5 weeks
- 6-8 month old lasts 4 weeks.
Old thread buddy.
I know :). I just go through and read the different threads and I didn't see anyone mention Sport and Agility so I figured I would chime in, you never know who's going to read it next.
I'd like to know where you buy Acana for $61/bag?
Looks possible :) ( boring day)
https://naturalpetfoods.ca/collections/dry-dog-food
That's a good price Sharon !
I get the 11th bag for free at Global so in the long run its about the same. Rather support my small local retailer.
Thanks! I wouldn't go so far as to say "experienced owner" though I am working on it haha! Since getting my two GSPs I have become one of those crazy dog moms/owners. I love researching about the breed and other sporting breeds which brought me to this forum. I really enjoy reading through the threads, its seems like everyone has a slightly (or drastically) different opinion but people (mostly) are respectful, constructive and helpful.
Lakefield...I have a friend that lives their and breeds flat coats.
Pro-Plan Performance Sport 30-20.
Many field trial champions have been raised on that dog food. It must do a LOt right.
Many other working dogs have put on thousands of working miles on other brands of dog food as well. :)
Such as RedPaw, Anamaet, Dr.Tim's, Native, Inuksuk , National, Caribou Gold, Victor Nutra Pac, EaglePac just to name a few.
Lots of different opinions on corn.
http://gundogforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=51444
Keep doing your research....no offense, but chicken is the first ingredient ( the highest quantity).
A lot of Hunting retriever clubs, and field triallers use Pro-plan Sport, as well, many vets have zero issues with the food.
A little light reading for you:
http://www.askavetquestion.com/nutrition/corn/
Corn or rice are carbohydrates that provide energy but in short bursts. They are also the cheapest fillers. Look for quality fats to provide the energy. Everybody here knows I'm not a fan of PPP, too much corn and cereals in it for my money.
Your absolutely correct... however some varieties of corn are of higher quality and can be beneficial in a dog feed recipe. Unfortunately the price of corn used in many dog food manufacturers recipes are of lower quality because of price point. If you can find a dog food with a tri-meat base as first ingredients such as some of the ones i mentioned earlier you dog will be much better off. These are proven dog feeds that have been tested on extreme athletes such as the Iditarod, Yukon Quest, Beargrease, Wyoming Stage Stop Race, Alpirod etc. These athletes could not perform on a kibble containing corn as one of the main ingredients and would be impossible for them to compete at that level. Anyone thinking they can hasn't a clue what these athletes endure. It's all about high quality protein and high fat quickly being digested and absorbed into the blood stream to be used as energy. Nothing wrong with a field trial dog eating a 30/20 diet containing corn but an extreme athlete such as a sled dog burning thousand of calories during training or racing would literally hit a wall and crash on a diet containing corn as the top ingredient. They would also suffer from stress diarrhea because corn disturbs the digestive tract under working conditions .
4 out the first 6 ingredients in PPP sport are grain products.
2
Chicken, corn gluten meal, brewers rice, animal fat preserved with mixed-tocopherols (form of Vitamin E), poultry by-product meal (source of glucosamine), whole grain corn, corn germ meal, fish meal (source of glucosamine), animal digest, fish oil, dried egg product, salt, calcium carbonate, potassium chloride, calcium phosphate, Vitamin E supplement, choline chloride, L-Lysine monohydrochloride, L-ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate (source of Vitamin C), zinc sulfate, ferrous sulfate, manganese sulfate, niacin, Vitamin A supplement, calcium pantothenate, thiamine mononitrate, copper sulfate, riboflavin supplement, Vitamin B-12 supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, garlic oil, folic acid, Vitamin D-3 supplement, calcium iodate, biotin, menadione sodium bisulfite complex (source of Vitamin K activity), and sodium selenite
Keep in mind Terry many people feed a brand of dog food containing a 4 grain as the main ingredients. Many people rarely compete their dog at a high or extreme level. The weekend warrior hunting dog for the most part will do well on such a recipe but will require more cups of kibble per day as compared to a meat base dog food that require less.
My 58lb lab gets 2 1/2 cups of RedPaw dog food a day and my 38lb Springer gets just under 2 cups a day. They would most definitely require more if the kibble was a heavy grain base because of their daily exercise routine.
Corn gluten meal is actually a source of protein, not a carbohydrate. Is it really relevant whether it's a grain?
Ingredients lists do not tell you about the quality of a dog food. They do not tell you the proportions of the ingredients, nor how the food is prepared. They don't tell you about bioavailable nutrition.
What tells you the quality of a food is the health and performance of dogs fed that food. Pro Plan is doing just fine in that regard.
At the moment, my own dogs are on Loyall.
I'm not disputing that likely 75% of trial dogs live on PPP. But if 75% of the field uses the same feed then really the feed isn't what makes one dog rise above others. Its training and genetics at that point. Many people I talk to say they have "always" fed PPP. Well if that's the case then they really don't know if their dogs would actually do better with something else if it hasn't been tried. Allegiance to Purina because of marketing support in the trial world is understandable but if Loyall all of a sudden outspent Purina for 5 years straight I think you would see the same support.
My dog does great on Acana but the next one may not. Couldn't get a solid dump out of him with PPP. I'm not going to assume Acana is going to be the best for the next one.
Yes dog genetics is the main ingredient .I personally know many people that use to feed Purina to their racing dogs during the early 1990's because of price point not quality. Many dog foods surpassed them soon after that because a small handful of kennels were actually involved in research developing a better kibble working along side a couple of dog food manufacturers.
If 75% of the field is on Pro Plan, then if Pro Plan is really as bad as its detractors claim, the remaining 25% ought to be winning the national championship every year.
The fact is, all these dogs are fed quality foods. The difference between those quality foods is negligible, and it isn't a factor in who wins.
I have seen that as well Andrew with many dog foods where the cheaper high grain had higher kcal/kg. The fact is the Red Paw first three main ingredients are meat and dogs do much better on a meat base diet than plant base. Meat base compared to a grain base kibble also digest at different rates that produce energy for short or long periods of time. A meat base diet provides energy for longer periods of time along with a high fat content. The difference in amount of stool/waste on a high meat base diet compared to a high grain diet is incredible.
As I said I know many people that use to feed not just Purina but other high grain kibble diets that had to switch to a meat base diet because dogs do better on meat.
Going to bed ! Friggen dog food threads. lol
I've read this before even posting. I'll probably catch h*ll for saying this but most vets will suggest Royal Canin and well, the first ingredient in their medium breed dog food is brewers rice.
https://www.royalcanin.com/products/...-dog-food/3004
The thing with dog food is very simple.....the same shoe doesn't fit everyone and the sooner folks understand that then the quicker their dogs needs can be more tailored to their needs.
I feed PPP and Loyal performance to my retrievers. My competitive hounds were on a combination of kibble and raw as the draw on their endurance was significantly more. Even though retrievers work hard under extreme conditions it tends to be in a shorter duration. Comparing that to the needs of a hard running fox hound or dogs in similar situations is not the same.
Purina leads the companies in current research....whether you like purina or not doesn't matter. Their study on soft tissue injuries and percentage of protein fed is significant as it relates to our dogs.
The top Pros in USA and Canada feed PPP. They could probably feed anything they want as it is not a money issue, clients will pay for what they consider the best and that cost is minimal compared to training/trialing costs. Almost exclusively feed PPP.
If I had a pet I wouldn't feed the PPP just as an example. I would settle in on something like a 26/16 formula and find a food that minimizes stools and keeps coat condition and eye brightness observable and is affordable.
Any Vet worth their salt will tell you of the increase in observable allergies in dogs. Is it environmental or food caused?? Who knows but you can play around with different brands if this is affecting your dog.
Good to see a couple of you guys are getting together for breakfast.....
^^^^^
Now that there, was a good post.
Unfortunately my wife was called in this morning to work a shift for someone that has been off sick. Hopefully I'll make it to Kemptville next month to see the family and do some grouse hunting. Was really looking forward to the breakfast tomorrow morning with everyone.
Years ago, while hunting a power-house pointer on the prairies, we came back with a bone rack of a dog! We were recommended Royal Canin Gastro Hi Energy. We've been using it ever since while out there. Just speaking from our personal results with our dogs. We don't feed it all year long but.......
I'm not here to promote or disparage. Dog food is HUGE business. Bags, pics on bags, and numbers on bags have become somewhat misleading. I feed a product over a period of time and observe the results. Then, I draw conclusions for that particular dog because performance/results can vary from dog-to-dog, from seasonal demands, etc. If it works, I use it. For example, advertised protein and utile protein can be at opposite ends of the spectrum. Above and beyond this, some dogs will happily ingest saw-dust, while others are finicky and will eat a good product for awhile but then seem to get very picky. At this juncture simply changing the food often works but the research is reborn.
I have never considered changing foods throughout the year. He gets the same all year. He consumes more during hunting season but regulates himself. Is this something you always do? I see the logic though as hunting season can be intense for them.
If your feeding a diet that your dog is very well on and maintaining it's weight, energy , stamina etc. keep them on it. But... mushers will bait will dog food in order to get their dog/dogs to eat or drink before and after extreme exercise. Working dogs will louse there appetite just as human athletes will do after after daily physical exercise. I like to bait the water before I go hunting using a product called Glycocharge or on colder days a powdered fat supplement National Energy Pak high in calories. I use either of these products instead of feeding kibble and they lap it up every time. Later on after the hunt is over they get kibble sometimes baited with the fat supplement if needed.
working dogs need endurance .
Endurance = fat !
I feed my pointer sport and agility from Acana.
Crude protein (min.) 35 % Fat content (min.) 22 %
I generally switch my food in the off season as my dog runs real hot off higher protein foods so to deal with that for the other 8 months of the year is a bit out of my patience level. This year I am not sure if I will switch. We recently moved and he has been even more high strung since coming here (maybe all the extra space). I would have done the switch in August to prepare but just recently bought a new bag of his other food. Going to try just increasing the amount/calories and sticking with the 26% protein instead of 31. I have been increasing over the last 3 weeks so we'll see. Of course there is also that first month where endurance is increasing as well from being ran more often so have to ignore the initial poor recovery. Feed what works. It's not always about more protein/fat and organic claims
Fat is the fuel for energy though. You're the second person on this thread to mention you change foods based on season. I'm starting to think maybe there is something to that. My dog is very similar to yours and to make it worse he's in rehab from surgery so he can't run yet but really really really wants to.
I have a new dog coming in December and I hope it does well on what I feed the other one. I really don't want to buy 2 different feeds so I may have to expirement a bit at first.
Yes I keep fat levels high. There is only a 1% difference in fat levels between the 2 so it's pretty insignificant. However there is definitely a correlation between the protein and his behavior. He also gets more animal fat during hunting season in the form of eggs and sardines.
The experts advise not switching foods so I think Cass is on the right track. I now try to stay on the same food year-round, up the quantity during the hunting season and give the dog stuff like sardines and pepperettes for extra fat. Most of our dogs, in spite of our fond beliefs, are essentially weekend warriors -- they go most of the year being only moderately active and then in the hunting season find themselves covering large distances all of a sudden. I train throughout the year but there is no comparison between a summer training session and six hours of hunting, three days in a row. If you hit those real extremes then I think it's sensible to think about things like Glycocharge.
There are lots of quality foods on the market, so I think the emphasis on brand is misplaced. Whatever works for your dog is the only sensible rule.
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Mine is free fed so he regulates himself as needed. Not sure that will work anymore when there are 2 dogs in the house?
Feed the same brand year round Terry. A maintenance diet during the off season and then switch to the higher protein/fat during the working season of the SAME BRAND. If your your feeding Acana Sport & Agility during the working season switch to an Acana line that is lower protein/fat during the off season. At least you know the Acana proteins and fats used are from the same reliable source they use in all their dog food lines. That's key so not to disrupt the digestive system as well as the risk of switching to another brand of potentially lower quality of protein/fat being used.
He's on Acana Grasslands (33/17) year round. During hunting season I supplement with high fat treats the night before. Chicken skin, bacon that type of thing. He loves salmon.
PM sent.
too much protein which can cause kidney damage
"Proteins are the building blocks of the body and an absolute necessity for daily function. However, when a dog consumes too much protein in a meal it cannot all be utilized at one time, nor can it be stored for later. The body will then excrete the excess protein through the kidneys and out of the body via urine. Thus the quality of the protein actually becomes more important that than actual amount as a high quality protein is more bio-available and can be better absorbed by the body. " quote
Not easy to know. Vomiting /diarrhea can be symptoms.
( Just my opinion. i could be totally wrong. :) )
But then again i have never come across in all my years any working dog suffering kidney damage from too much protein. Some proteins can be too rich for a digestive system and cause diarrhea.
I hear you , but who knows. My 10 year old setter now has urinary incontinence in the night. :rolleyes:
Who knows if she rec'd too much protein over the years and it damaged her kidneys. :whacked:
I have had many working Siberian Huskies that lived to 15 and 16 years of age being fed high protein and fat diets(meat) and die of old age. A good friend of mine had a sled dog live to 17 years of age on the same diet. I think the key to longevity besides genetics is a physical working routine.
LOL....................................
Too hot to me means hyperactive behavior (over and above the typical high energy a working dog should possess)
Now I'm totally confused. You 're saying the dog food you were feeding , you felt made him "too hot" as in too much energy/hyperactive in the home.
That's something I never heard before.
My boys are on a high protein diet year round. I really don't subscribe to the thinking that a diet which is hot begets certain behavioural traits. Yes I believe they may have lots of energy but that's where 'house' rules come into play and certain behaviours are developed over the long term that fit for their environment. I expect mine to be 'down' in the family room at night...not pacing laps.
Having said the above I did have one dog who required a tempered diet due to kidney issues but dogs like people are all different.
Feeding dogs is both science and art. You've got to find what fits. Obviously you're looking for the physical condition in all respects but their behaviour is important as well and 'what works...works'!
There are clear studies on genetics and life expectancy for most breeds. Not sure I believe a diet can over ride what one is predisposed for. In general our smaller dogs live longer....a fact confirmed ....but not always.
Dog food can be like a handful of jelly beans........things vary.
The only time I had a dog that I would consider Running Hot was when a I was in a sprint race in the Gatineau Hills. I dog jockeyed for a friend of mine dog team throughout Ontario,Quebec and throughout parts of New England for many years. He forgot to mention that one of his females that I was running in the team was in heat. Long story short she overheated(heat cycle) and I had to put her in the basket of the sled part way through the race to complete the race. We got her back to the dog truck pulled her out of the sled and covered her with snow to get her cooled down and poured a small amount of the soft drink Sprite into her mouth. She slowly drank the sugary drink up and within a few minutes was back on her feet. This is what I consider running hot and come across this on a rare occasion during fall training with the dog team pulling an ATV. Typically it's the darker coated dogs that can get overheated during the fall season (sudden temperature rise)but it can happen during the winter as well if the temperature rises. It's very important a working dog is watered before and after training so not to over heat. As mentioned in an earlier post Glycocharge is a fantastic product to add to water that provides the necessary electrolytes for working dogs.