What is the highest concentration of glyphosate weedkiller sold in Ontario (Round Up or other gneneric brands). I know you can get the stuff at 50% in the US. What is the highest here for over the counter hone use?
thanks!
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What is the highest concentration of glyphosate weedkiller sold in Ontario (Round Up or other gneneric brands). I know you can get the stuff at 50% in the US. What is the highest here for over the counter hone use?
thanks!
Not sure of the actual concentration but the farmer's grade is mixed at a 50:1 ratio. 350g/l Regular store bought concentrate used to be mixed at 40:1. The premix is 1/50th the strength of the super concentrate. 7g/l. The concentrate sold now in Ontario is mixed at 20:1 so not near as strong. If you're looking for a strong mix best to talk to a farmer.
Cheers
I'm no pro, but I think most agricultural formulations are 50%. You need a licence to buy them.
You don't need a licence to buy the pre-mixed stuff that is 1% but there are restrictions. I think you have to ask for it (not usually on shelves) and it is supposed to be used only on poison ivy or giant hogweed.
It doesn't work on Japanese Knotweed.....if that is your problem.
Got a lot of things I need to kill.. the problem is, cutting them down doesn't go far enough... I've researched it and herbicides need to be sprayed on stumps. Everything I want to kill suckers... Box elders, Lilacs..etc... i cut them and it' sprouts back up again! even grounding stumps won't get em all... Lilacs are a real PIA.. Don't understand why they are so popular... they look nice for 5 days then look like crap rest of they year and the sucker though my interlock, patio, everywhere...Quote:
Originally Posted by patvetzal
got to befriend a farmer who'd sell me a few gallons of th really strong stuff.. anyone? or I could go to the US. I think they sell the 50% stuff
and my dumb neighbour has box elders all along the fence... they grow through my fence and encroach onto my side...hate those things, too...
If you are painting stumps I'd go with garlon over glyphosate, but glyphosate will work at 50% in a pinch.
Once I get my hand on the strong stuff I am going to try the hack and squirt method.. you take an axe and cut into the wood in a downward direction then spray the tree so they die - roots die and no suckers should emerge.. sometimes a few applications are needed... it's a quick way to kill a lot of young trees
An old farmer friend [now long gone] used to make his own weed/vegetation killer by mixing Gillets Lye, Salt and Strong Vinegar, this concoction killed every thing.
I do not know what ratio he used, but I do know his fence lines were always clear of any type of vegetation.
My farmer buddy gets the 3way
It kills all broad leaf and is a 50 to one mix.hsrd to get without the proper lic
Tell me about it. I spent 10 years fighting that stuff. I even used the super concentrate without being diluted. It was like fertilizer for that stuff. You need to pull the clumps and keep pulling the shoots as they come up. Eventually it will get too weak to survive the winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by patvetzal
I found that 2,4,D was better than roundup, but you had to spray and then NOT pull the plant until it had a few days to be absorbed. Takes about ten years to eradicate a healthy patch....starting by removing all visible root clumps with a small back hoe. Then cutting/pulling all shoots as they emerge for a few years. THEN you can spray with results....
In England an offer to purchase often contains the stipulation that no knotweed is found on the premises...
The only good thing about it is that the bees love the flowers in Sept, even our chickens won't touch it....
PM sent .I will get you fixed up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splaker
I had about 70' of it as a "fence", even though there was a 4' fence behind it. At first i left it alone and cut the stalks down with pruning shears. Year 2 saw my wife giving me dirty looks as i pulled out the chainsaw. It took me 2 pickup loads to get rid of them every fall. After a few years, the war was on. I moved there in the fall of '97. I started attacking it in the early 2000s. I still find the odd sucker coming up. Im sure if i left it alone, it would come back 15 years after i started eradicating it.Quote:
Originally Posted by patvetzal
I pulled out the clumps with a shovel at first, then graduated to a mini excavator. Those suckers are tough to pull out.
Also think you can buy the 50% mixture in Quebec.
A lot of those old farmers use to make up these cocktails are no longer with us. Unfortunately many of them died because of that very reason from over exposure to a variety of chemicals and wearing no personal protective equipment and mixing a little bit of this and that together.Quote:
Originally Posted by jaycee
This fellow lived well into his eighties.Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow dog
A lot of those old time mixtures were a lot safer than what is sold now, chemicals that you have to be licensed for to be able to apply, and also warned to wash immediately after use and to wash your clothing, or wear protective clothing while applying, and to wear masks so you don't breath in the fumes.
Lye chemically is Sodium Hydroxide and is a strong alkali. Vinegar chemically is acetic acid and is a weak acid. Combine the two in the correct ratio and you produce water and sodium acetate. Sodium acetate is commonly known as vinegar salt and is a type of salt. So if the ratios were correct your friend would have been making a water based solution containing sodium acetate salt and regular sodium chloride salt if he was also adding normal salt. Sodium based salts are toxic to plants if enough is applied. If the ratios were not balanced properly he would have been making either an alkali (too much lye) salt solution or acid (too much vinegar) salt solution. These would also be toxic to plants but effectiveness might be variable depending on the ratios used. These type of solutions work pretty well for young annual weeds but have trouble with larger mature plants and perennial weeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by jaycee
Interestingly the short term toxicity of vinegar to humans is higher than glyphosphate. In other words less vinegar is needed to kill someone than glyphosphate if it is done in one dose. As for chronic exposure at low doses I suspect the glyphosphate is more toxic.
This is all I could find about Vinegar;Quote:
Originally Posted by Species8472
Section 1: Product and Company Identification
Vinegar
Synonyms/General Names: Acetic acid, Ethanoic acid.
Product Use: For educational use only. Not for human consumption.
Manufacturer: Various
24 Hour Emergency Information Telephone Numbers
CHEMTREC (USA): 800-424-9300 CANUTEC (Canada): 613-424-6666
ScholAR Chemistry; 5100 W. Henrietta Rd, Rochester, NY 14586; (866) 260-0501; www.Scholarchemistry.com
Section 2: Hazards Identification
Clear, colorless solution with a strong vinegar odor. HMIS (0 to 4)
CAUTION! Body tissue irritant and slightly toxic by ingestion. Not for human consumption
Target organs: Respiratory system, eyes, skin, teeth.
This material is considered hazardous by the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200)
What harmful effects does vinegar have on the human body?
EDIT
Answer by Meg harebottle CONFIDENCE VOTES 7
I have heard it damages mucous linings and red blood cells. Not sure of research proof.
Chemical poisoning -- acetic acid: Introduction
Chemical poisoning -- acetic acid: Acetic acid is a chemical used for medicinal purposes such as superficial ear infections, jellyfish stings and bladder irrigation. Acetic acid is a also a component of vinegar which is used as a cooking ingredient. The type and severity of symptoms varies depending on the amount of chemical involved and the nature of the exposure. More detailed information about the symptoms, causes, and treatments of Chemical poisoning -- acetic acid is available below.
Not being argumentative here but, just asking for more info.Quote:
Interestingly the short term toxicity of vinegar to humans is higher than glyphosphate. In other words less vinegar is needed to kill someone than glyphosphate if it is done in one dose. As for chronic exposure at low doses I suspect the glyphosphate is more toxic.
How is vinegar higher in toxicity to humans?
Vinegar is used in food stuffs , salad dressings, in preserving of food, pickling and such.
I would think that you would have to ingest a very large amount for it to be toxic, which normally a person would not do.
What would "fish and chips " be without vinegar, or a " salad " without a vinegar and oil dressing ?
And here is more;Balsamic Vinegar -- A Luscious Elixir | The Huffington Post
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/cary-k...b_2041397.html
DIY: Apple Cider Vinegar Tonic To Cure Bloating & Inflammation ...
http://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-13787...lammation.html
Apple Cider Vinegar Drink Recipe - Basic Tonic • The Healthy Eating Site
thehealthyeatingsite.com/apple-cider-vinegar-drink-recipe-basic-tonic
and there are many many more
round up needs to go onto the leaves to work best. you can buy concentrate from a farmer for about 10 a liter and it makes about 100 liters of mix . what you are looking for is a weed killer it has dicamaba ,mecoprop and 24d in it . first if you did fresh cut tree make 3 holes in stump using a spade drill about 3/4 to 1inch .. then pour 50% solution in those holes job done. if you really want total vegetation control then try to get karmax it is a soil sterilizaton and should not be sprayed around any tree less than 5 years old or it will kill the tree.
Those products are no longer available off the shelf because they have been banned.Quote:
Originally Posted by mark270wsm