Trailer lights question

The trailer I got last year with the boat has lights which seems to be sealed with the exception of the big hole where wires go in. As result in my first outing the bulbs inside where broken probably due to contact with the water when they were hot. I now disconnect the light before launching the boat. That issue was resolved but I still don't know the proper way, if the lights should be sealed or open. I could easily seal the holes with silicon but my concern is that if the seal would be compromised somewhere then water will go in and stay there while if the lights are open on the bottom (as now) water easily goes in and out. However still some oxidation inside already occurs. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

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Originally Posted by MarkD

The trailer I got last year with the boat has lights which seems to be sealed with the exception of the big hole where wires go in. As result in my first outing the bulbs inside where broken probably due to contact with the water when they were hot. I now disconnect the light before launching the boat. That issue was resolved but I still don't know the proper way, if the lights should be sealed or open. I could easily seal the holes with silicon but my concern is that if the seal would be compromised somewhere then water will go in and stay there while if the lights are open on the bottom (as now) water easily goes in and out. However still some oxidation inside already occurs. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

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Hot tail light bulbs will pop every time. If they're not unplugged before hand,the brake lights are on while reversing to launch. Cold water and POOF! Supposedly "sealed" units are rarely actually water proof. With lower drain holes (must be clear or condensation results and pops the bulbs anyway) only a small amount of water rises inside the unit. Try it with an inverted pop bottle and you'll see the principle,but,it only works if the upper fixture is sealed properly which they never are after they've been on the trailer for any length of time. Moral of the story----always unplug.

Agree if you are using standard bulbs, first thing you want to do is unplug so they cool down, and last thing is plug in on way out so water has a chance to drain. I switched my lights to LED's now I just leave them connected. I like the LED's better as they are brighter as well.

I see. Thanks!

Trailer lights are voodoo.

I replaced "guide on" poles on either side, then installed the lights on top. Allows you to monitor your lights, at the same time.

I usually check all lights before I go and then stop after 1/2 hour of driving to check everything again. May be reinsurance, but better safe than sorry.

While living in Victoria, I used to fill my freezer with Pacific coast Salmon fixing trailer lights...you think you have problems here...try it when you dealing with salt water.

Trimmer is right, the design usually only lets a little water in the drainage holes, but the lens cap seal and housing has to water tight. That new liquid plastic Electric tape is a marvel of science I wish was around back then to ensure your wiring harness were watertight.

These new LED style with the 'capsule' enclosed lights have solved the problem.

[QUOTE=blasted_saber;1087051]Trailer lights are voodoo.[/QUOTE

No truer words spoken. I spend 2 full days trying to get the lights on my utility trailer to work. After changing everything out from the connection to the truck to the taillights on the trailer I finally discovered my Chev Silverado has to be in Drive to make the lights work. The neighborhood knew I wasn't happy.

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Originally Posted by sawbill

[QUOTE
I finally discovered my Chev Silverado has to be in Drive to make the lights work. The neighborhood knew I wasn't happy.

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Huh??? So when driving, the lights are on? When pulling over on the shoulder (or where ever) and putting truck in park, the trailer lights go out?

Seems that way. I have auto headlights so maybe at night when they are on full, the trailer lights might be still on. I seldom drive at night so I've never really checked that scenario. How I found out about this was the last day I was trying to figure out my lights my neighbor walked by and said I had no headlights on the truck even though it was idling in the driveway--not even the daytime running lights. Yeah! Voodoo for sure.

I solved the whole trailer light problem by using the magnetic ones. My trailer has diamond plate side steps on either side that I attach them to. Pull them off before you launch, throw them back on after you pull the boat out of the water. I store them inside the house and they seem to be holding up well.

-Nick

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Originally Posted by Sprite

I solved the whole trailer light problem by using the magnetic ones. My trailer has diamond plate side steps on either side that I attach them to. Pull them off before you launch, throw them back on after you pull the boat out of the water. I store them inside the house and they seem to be holding up well.

-Nick

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Well you think you may have solved your problem but it's illegal. Lights must be permanently attached, find it under the link. https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/motorvehicl...image1-856.htm

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Originally Posted by Fisherman

Well you think you may have solved your problem but it's illegal. Lights must be permanently attached, find it under the link. https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/motorvehicl...image1-856.htm

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I think you will find that those federal requirements are for manufacturers and/or importers. The HTA has no such requirements of permanent placement......unless it has been changed recently.

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Originally Posted by Fisherman

Well you think you may have solved your problem but it's illegal. Lights must be permanently attached, find it under the link. https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/motorvehicl...image1-856.htm

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Youre also not supposed to go 110 in a 100 zone.

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Originally Posted by rick_iles

I think you will find that those federal requirements are for manufacturers and/or importers. The HTA has no such requirements of permanent placement......unless it has been changed recently.

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Ya and you are supposed to maintain the vehicle as it was manufactured too. Just saying and trying to save someone the hassle.

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Originally Posted by blasted_saber

Youre also not supposed to go 110 in a 100 zone.

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Completely different subject, now buzz off and go fish.

I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure the HTA only requires one working red light while trailering. One of the few useless things I remember from my useless police foundations course 20 years ago lol.


x90 on the trailer lights being voodoo. last winter while heading to the Port Perry snowmobile club my truck tells me the trailer is disconnected .. . . funny it wasn't. I had no brakes and running lights. Two seasons prior to this I had the same issue, turned out the connection to the breakaway battery was fudged. Simple 200 dollar fix because I didn't have time to do it myself. So I get poking around under the trailer and discover a complete rats nest disaster factory wiring. I also discover the connections to the breakaway battery are about as blue and rotted as it gets. Should be a simple fix. I replaced the battery. No dice . . . WTF. Replace the breakaway switch . . . . no dice. Keep in mind this is the day before I am leaving for a week of sledding and ice fishing in march. I then replace every connection in the junction box . … still not working . . . . . its like midnight at this point. The next morning im standing in my basement looking out the window at the trailer in the driveway and I notice a wire hanging off the axle..... I go out, jack the trailer up, crawl under and no kidding a broken ground wire to the brakes. Lesson learned, it may be simpler then it seems lol.

Also, move the junction box into the trailer if you can. Things weather a little slower!

[QUOTE=sawbill;1087189]

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Originally Posted by blasted_saber

Trailer lights are voodoo.[/QUOTE

No truer words spoken. I spend 2 full days trying to get the lights on my utility trailer to work. After changing everything out from the connection to the truck to the taillights on the trailer I finally discovered my Chev Silverado has to be in Drive to make the lights work. The neighborhood knew I wasn't happy.

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Something is seriously wrong if your truck has to be in "drive" for the trailer lights to work. There's one hell of a short circuit for that to happen,especially,if there's no blown fuses. It's a wonder the main computer isn't fried.

[QUOTE=trimmer21;1087315]

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Originally Posted by sawbill

Something is seriously wrong if your truck has to be in "drive" for the trailer lights to work. There's one hell of a short circuit for that to happen,especially,if there's no blown fuses. It's a wonder the main computer isn't fried.

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Trailer lights are a pain in the arse!! I found out quickly, fortunately, if the truck lights were on “auto”, trailer lights don’t work. A test light will help a lot !! I have a small trailer we haul the Argo on, moose hunting. It doesn’t matter what I do, I can count on the lights not working properly. Our camp trailer was the same. We finally went the magnetic mount route and have not had an issue since...
EDIT: I see Princess Auto has them on sale...15 bucks !

Trailers are a mystery for sure. I had a trailer that was getting old got the lights all working, then decided to under coat the trailer with the no drip stuff. Lights never worked again. Had to run a ground wire to each light to get them to work again. Somehow the undercoat stopped the ground through the trailer.

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Originally Posted by sawbill

Seems that way. I have auto headlights so maybe at night when they are on full, the trailer lights might be still on. I seldom drive at night so I've never really checked that scenario. How I found out about this was the last day I was trying to figure out my lights my neighbor walked by and said I had no headlights on the truck even though it was idling in the driveway--not even the daytime running lights. Yeah! Voodoo for sure.

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My Gmc Sierra also has the auto lights but there is a switch that overrides it and you can turn on your lights whenever you want.

Today,I went to Canadian Tire and bought new LED trailer lights. I wired them up tonight and grounded each light pod to the trailer with a separate lead. They work perfectly,four ways,signals,brakes,side markers (which haven't worked in years) all of them. I'm a happy camper. Trailer lights are the spawn of Satan.

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Originally Posted by trimmer21

I wired them up tonight and grounded each light pod to the trailer with a separate lead.

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9 out 10 times bad grounds are the problem with trailer lights. I remember back when they used the ground from the hitch/ball contact with the vehicle.

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Originally Posted by Fisherman

Completely different subject, now buzz off and go fish.

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Not really. Theyre both driving concerns.

My point is it would have to be a really slow day for a cop to pull you over and charge you under that offense.

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Originally Posted by blasted_saber

Not really. Theyre both driving concerns.

My point is it would have to be a really slow day for a cop to pull you over and charge you under that offense.

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Thinking that is a mistake. OPP and MTO have set up regular inspection stations just for that purpose on Hwy 7/115 and all points north through Peterborough County. It's scary to see what they've found. You just wouldn't believe the stupid shyte people do with unsafe trailers and unsecure loads.

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Originally Posted by Bushmoose

Huh??? So when driving, the lights are on? When pulling over on the shoulder (or where ever) and putting truck in park, the trailer lights go out?

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In Auto mode the only lights on a car/truck will be the daytime running lights.

Word of advice. don't turn your light switch to AUTO. Your tail light and marker lights will not come on, even in a heavy rain or snow you are INVISIBLE to EVERYTHING behind you.

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Originally Posted by trimmer21

Thinking that is a mistake. OPP and MTO have set up regular inspection stations just for that purpose on Hwy 7/115 and all points north through Peterborough County. It's scary to see what they've found. You just wouldn't believe the stupid shyte people do with unsafe trailers and unsecure loads.

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Had a cop(OPP) pull me over as I was making the turn off 17 to 129 north.
Said he'd had a few calls about me weaving and riding the shoulder. There was one car that had been behind me since Spanish River. I said I am sure the guy behind me was the one, cause I was going 90 and he wanted to pass. Said I tried to help him go around by moving over on the long straight sections, but he would not pass.

Cops says that's likely it. He then looks at my License and says" YUP!:rolleyes: ...Knew you had to be a truck driver....ALL the trailer lights are working." ;)

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Originally Posted by trimmer21

Thinking that is a mistake. OPP and MTO have set up regular inspection stations just for that purpose on Hwy 7/115 and all points north through Peterborough County. It's scary to see what they've found. You just wouldn't believe the stupid shyte people do with unsafe trailers and unsecure loads.

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We're talking about properly functioning "portable/emergency" lights. Not a crazy/scary load.

Ive never heard of ayone receiving a charge for having them. I know lots of people that use them.

The above quoted regulation was also a federal law. Thats low on the list of things OPP and MTO are concerned with in a traffic stop.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

In Auto mode the only lights on a car/truck will be the daytime running lights.

Word of advice. don't turn your light switch to AUTO. Your tail light and marker lights will not come on, even in a heavy rain or snow you are INVISIBLE to EVERYTHING behind you.

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My truck is always on auto mode. All lights come on when it gets dark enough for the censor to turn them on. I have had them come on during storms as well.....

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Originally Posted by rick_iles

My truck is always on auto mode. All lights come on when it gets dark enough for the censor to turn them on. I have had them come on during storms as well.....

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Thanks for clarifying that. I was sure I had full running lights after dark but it was always tough to be positive while sitting in the driver's seat.

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Originally Posted by rick_iles

My truck is always on auto mode. All lights come on when it gets dark enough for the censor to turn them on. I have had them come on during storms as well.....

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I've put a 13'6" rig under a 12' bridge at 70 Mph, but I still don't think I'll try it again.

The system is designed to turn the rear facing lights on at night, it has to pretty dark before they come on.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

I've put a 13'6" rig under a 12' bridge at 70 Mph, but I still don't think I'll try it again.

The system is designed to turn the rear facing lights on at night, it has to pretty dark before they come on.

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I once stayed at a Holiday Inn... but what has that got to do with trailer lights ???

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Originally Posted by rick_iles

I once stayed at a Holiday Inn... but what has that got to do with trailer lights ???

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Never mind then......pointing out a problem with the system when it comes to safety.

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Originally Posted by Fisherman

Well you think you may have solved your problem but it's illegal. Lights must be permanently attached, find it under the link. https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/motorvehicl...image1-856.htm

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I've been pulled over twice for other reasons while towing; never a mention.

-Nick

I look at it this way, it's a mag mount, hit a substantial bump and it may let go, hit the road rip off and then turn into a flying missile that could hit someone or cause them to try and avoid it and end up going into the rhubarb. Is it worth it. Just an observation.

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Originally Posted by Snowwalker

In Auto mode the only lights on a car/truck will be the daytime running lights.

Word of advice. don't turn your light switch to AUTO. Your tail light and marker lights will not come on, even in a heavy rain or snow you are INVISIBLE to EVERYTHING behind you.

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On a GM, "auto mode" turns on all your lights - same as if you turned them on manually. This goes back at least as far as the 2000 Impala, my 2010 impala was the same, likewise my 2018 Silverado.

As far as trailer lights being a pain - doesn't everyone own and know how to use a multi-meter - well everyone over 30.

I find boat wiring (lights, live well, fishfinder) to have more problems than trailers.

Has anyone else switched to LEDs ? I did and haven't had any bulb issues since. They run cool and don't pop when they hit cold water. I still unplug anyway. Remember to use dielectric grease before installing them.

All about dielectric grease. Apply it after connections are made, not before. It's actually an insulator.
Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. ... The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection.

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Originally Posted by werner.reiche

On a GM, "auto mode" turns on all your lights - same as if you turned them on manually. This goes back at least as far as the 2000 Impala, my 2010 impala was the same, likewise my 2018 Silverado.

As far as trailer lights being a pain - doesn't everyone own and know how to use a multi-meter - well everyone over 30.

I find boat wiring (lights, live well, fishfinder) to have more problems than trailers.

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You sure about that? Auto mode means they come on automatic when the photocell signals its dark enough. On is on whenever.
Sorry thought this was a current post did not look at the date.

I'm an electrician and still get pissed when I have to trouble shoot and repair my boat trailer lights (almost yearly). I finally had enough and in 2019 I re-wired my trailer from scratch. All my connections are twisted, soldered and sealed in heat shrink, I installed new LED lights, and used abrasion sleeves where the wiring harness came in contact with the trailer frame. I got so tired of replacing the crappy #12AWG jumper wire on the hinge of my folding tongue - I replaced it with a 10" long x 1" wide copper braided grounding strap (I think this bad boy is rated for 320A) and used 1/4 x 20 bolts to secure it!

I also keep those remote lights from Princess Auto in my truck as a back up and find they work well in a pinch (as long as you have a good supply of 'C' batteries). When using these always use a small wire and lash them to the trailer frame so that you do not loose one on a bump.