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Years ago when I bought all leather boots I used to treat them with some sort of animal grease can't remember might have been mink oil. Last year I bought those nylon winter boots and used that nano spray stuff. I just order online from Cabelas tonight a pair of
Cabela's Men's 800-Gram All-Leather Iron Ridge™ Hunting Boots with GORE-TEX
Should I use the nano spray stuff or mink oil.
Leather-mink oil. Non-leather Scotch Guard spray can
I always used dubbin.....
Those are great boots. I bought a pair in October, 400 grams, and they haven't disappointed yet. I wear them as my regular winter boots and my feet stay dry and warm. Comfortable as well. They are pretty stiff when new so the will require plenty of breaking in.
Is that Nano waterproffing spray any good ? Saw it at Mark's the other day, never heard of it before.
The nano spray seems to work good on the nylon style hunting boots and on shoes as well as canvas like material like my insulated coveralls.
I just read last night not to use it on leather as it blocks the pores.
Nik wax in a tube, sort of smells like linseed oil but I've been using it on leather boots for over 20 years. Twice a year application and still dry.
No one uses bear grease any more? It's similar to mink oil - but just what you'd think it is - rendered bear fat.
X2 .... the every day leather boots I wear are starting their 3rd winter... of course they were made in Canada so the quality is way better, but wash, dry, polish and rub on at the beginning and end of the season. I also use it on sheathes, ball gloves and anything leather. Actually I just polished my wife's boots, they looked scuffed so I put on the brown polish and afterwards rubbed some dubbin on and the leather looks almost new.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick_iles
My dad had a box of polishes, silicons, mink oil etc. and I have used the mink oil and I will use it on some items but it SEEMS like since is over 20 years old (may just be the way it originally was?) the consistency is more like putting on polish than a grease so it takes a BIT (not much) more effort to put on. They both seem good but I haven't done any real comparison.... anyone actually compared?
The non-leather boots get some silicon over the stitches and seems once or twice a year too. Especially if I am planning some ice fishing, a wet foot is a real annoyance!
Not just for boots...tents, slickers, leather belts, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by werner.reiche
It is great stuff!Quote:
Originally Posted by werner.reiche
It also rejuvenates old dried out leather, My neighbor, bought a used dirt bike with it he also got a pair of leather motorcycle boots that were very stiff and hard, we warmed them up with a hair drier and applied the rendered bear fat. The boots were brought back to as new condition, and he is still using them 4 years later. They are still comfortable and waterproof, according to him.
I have been using bear fat for umpteen ?? years, my leather boots are still water proof and very comfortable.
I use a product called Sno Seal. Pretty sure its beeswax.
Yes I have heard of that product
Quote:
Originally Posted by Obi-wanShinobi
Also a very good product, best way to apply it is to warm up the leather boots with a hair drier then apply the Sno Seal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obi-wanShinobi
Actually just dug through some of my old supplies and found half a jar of it. Does it make any sense to put on several coats. I can set my boots near the wood stove so it should soak in good. Would 2 or 3 coats help more or just one good thick coat.
That's exactly what I do every hunting season and keeps my boots waterproof and in like new condition for about 5 years now.Quote:
Originally Posted by jaycee
I’ve been using it on my boots for over twenty years and the method I use is warming your boots in the oven. Warm oven to 125-F and turn off. Place boots in oven for a few minutes. Take one out and spread sno seal on fairly heavy and massage as much as you can into the leather until it’s absorbed. Wipe off remainder and use on the other boot. Don’t forget to remove laces before heating boots. You want to get the tongue as well. One of my boots are almost 30 years old. Sorel Alaskan minus 100. Still in great shape. The oven method is actually on the product label. So one good coat is all you need. Hope this helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
These boots came pre oiled, should I still treat them?
I apply a coat on all my new boot purchases. Giving them an application adds more protection just in case the manufacturers missed it or applied very little. It happens.
Is it possible to put to much? I was going to apply several coats and let each absorb in to the leather I thought I would just set them by the wood stove.
Can you even by bear grease any more?
GW, you only need the one application. When your applying it and it can’t absorb anymore, your done. The leather is full. This product is oil free. Does not break down like other oiled products.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
I use this. It’s great https://www.cabelas.ca/product/75024...protector-4-oz
I agree this is good stuff. I think the beeswax type waterproofing is the best, longest lasting. I do my boots about once a monthQuote:
Originally Posted by ryandir
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I have an older pair of KEEN hikers that needed to be treated. A rep. at SAIL showed me the same ones he was wearing and said use beeswax. Warm the boot, apply (melt on) the beeswax stick and wipe off the excess. I used a hot air gun to spot warm the boot. I was surprised how well it worked, like water off a ducks back. The only down side if there is one is that you probably won't be able to use any other type treatment after that because the wax will be embedded in the leather.
Dubbin or mink oil, apply liberally to a warm boot, with a thick bead where the leather meets the sole.
Wipe off excess. Re-apply when the leather appears dry.
As an aside, if you have cans of Fluid Film around, they also condition leather.