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OK its that time to sight in slug gun in past I've always sighted in at 100 yards (rifled barrel and partition gold) but thinking as I only have to reach out to 30 yards ranged from where blind is to apples and heavy bush all around i should just concentrate on that distance and fine tune shot placement, so just throwing out there for your opinions thanks and will let all know how I did.
I’d sight at 100 and then take a shot at 30 and see where it hits. Won’t be far off but you can adjust your aim if needed. I suspect you will have a kill shot from 20yards out past 100 with no need to adjust your aim
Agree !!! That’s what I would do....Quote:
Originally Posted by FishHog
we usually sight in at 100 yards and then have targets at 50 and 150, rifled barrels on shotguns
Here are some results from a few years back thread when I sighted in my Mossberg 500 rifle slug barrel....
Looking through my ammo box I noticed a few challenger slugs and Winchester super X slugs… Not the best choice for a rifle barrel but figure I would give it a try anyway….
I took 3 shots at 40 yds with the challenger slugs through my Mossberg 500 rifled barrel and It produced a 4” group….Not good at all......
Then I had a box of Winchester Super X rifled slugs and thought I give them a try to see how well they would do through the Mossberg 500 rifled barrel….
I took my target out to 75yds and took 4 shots producing a nice tight 3” group….Very impressed with the cheaper priced slugs…
I know and I hear it all the time, rifle slugs in a rifle barrel are a no go but my results say differently.... Just thought I'd share what I discovered.
Best of luck
Download the Nikon Spot On app. It is a good starting point to see how distance will effect bullet drop.
I shoot a Beretta 391 with 12 gauge Remington AccuTip's (2-3/4", 1850fps, 385gr.) and I like to zero my gun at 100yds. With my gun set at a 100yd zero a 25yd shot is 0.1" high and a 150yd shot I am 5.7" low - but that is a long shot where I hunt.
The other nice thing about the app is that I can shoot 50yds and want my gun to be zero'd at 100yds and it will show me how high at 50yds my POI (point if impact) will need to be to achieve a 100yd zero. In my case if I am 1" high at 50yds I'm zero'd for 100 yds.
Cheers
we usually use the same shells, i might give the hornabys a try tho, they are lighter grain tho only at 300,Quote:
Originally Posted by 410001661
on a side note i found my grandfathers old scope made by tasco, im thinking its from the 80s, its brand new in the box still, i was gunna buy a scope this year for my rifled barrel, but im gunna use that!
gotta go buy some shells, rings and a mount for the barrel now, at least i got the scope for free! :)
I doubt the Tasco will hold up to the recoil.
If the scope has sentimental value put it on something with less kick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jack
i dont mind trying it out honestly, its been sitting in the basement for decades
ive also read other threads where people have had no problem putting them on their rifled barrels so well see i guess
For my bush guns, I've always sighted in 1" high at 50 yd...covers me for 20 -100 yds. Why waste a lot of slugs sighting in for 100 yd when that is the max for a short range set-up.
Agreed, I've watched many at the range go through all their slugs at 100yds and still no better off then when they started..lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
Much easier to shoot slugs at 50yds and adjust from there.
Yea once the shoulder has absorbed the recoil from a dozen slugs, you start to flinch and the whole endeavour turns out to be a waste of time. HaHa..Quote:
Originally Posted by canadaman30
I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Jack
If shooting to 30 y ,why not sight it in at 50 y zero?Then You will be -2" or 2.5" at 100 y,so you are good to go either way-yet having your zero where you need it.Saves time -money and shoulder.
I don’t know guys - Sight in to where you shoot IMO.
If you may have a shot at 100 then sight in there.
Assuming you are good at 100 when you have an ok group at 50 is not a good idea.
These aren’t rifles.
Most sabots will shoot ok to 50 but at 100 they may not even hit paper.
Biggest problem I see at the range is guys not letting their thin slug barrels cool between shots.
If your gun likes the load it usually only takes all of 5 or 6 rounds to be on at 100.
Am I the only one who thinks there is no need for a fully rifled barrel and partition gold slugs to shoot a max 30 yards? I would grab the duck barrel and throw a box of each of the cheap slugs down the tube, Winchester, Federal and Remington, I bet the animal would not know the difference at 30 yards.
I have clamp on Williams sights on the turkey barrel, they are sighted in for Challenger slugs at 75 yards, but the 3in Winchesters group about the same. The challenger took down a 250lb Russian Boar last December with a single shot at 20 yards, dropped on the spot.
1st its a Mossberg 935 so duck barrel is back bored and slugs not recommendedQuote:
Originally Posted by Fox
2nd I'm a short sighted old fart and slug barrel fitting with a 4 power scope trust me if i was shooting further i wouldn't have asked.
Line your gun for the distance your hunting. Have it bang on at 30 yards then take a shot at 50 and 100 so you know where they hit.
Sabots really aren't that expensive after you got it dialed in, slug a deer at that range
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Gotcha, I thought there had to be a reason for it. I had a friend with the back bored mossberg, did not make the patterns any better but had a bunch of restrictions, made he shy away from them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick_ca
Were you already sighted in for 100 yards? You are not trying to shoot a mosquito off their back, if you are a vitals shooter you have a lot of room up and down to hit the animal. I would lean towards the maximum point blank range, I have started doing this with every gun. You sight in so that you get the most range based on the vitals of the animal. If the animal is a deer you have an 8in vertical range for the vitals, even on a fawn. To give myself some play I drop that down to 6in. I then sight in so that the bullet will impact no more than 3in above of below the crosshair and then determine my maximum range. You can pull this down to 2in for varmints or 1in for things like rabbits, but the idea is that you just need to know that your shot will not be over that max range and line up on the center of the vitals. It is amazing what sort of ranges you would still have a kill shot with cartridges normally considered "short range" and "rainbow trajectory". This is a little tougher with a shotgun as you do not know the details of the bullet as well as with rifle bullets and reloading. You can use the ballistics table to get an idea though, the Hornady 300gr SST sighted in for 150 yards will be under 3in high all the way back to the muzzle, so a 100 yard zero would be even flatter than that, totally acceptable for your situation but still allowing for that long shot if it presented itself.
Fox I completely agree with you. If you are in deep cover and are not shooting out past 30-60yds then a smooth bore and rifled slugs will do the job quite nicely and cheaply. I used my 24" turkey gun and Winchester 2-3/4" Super X slugs for years and they worked fine. I thought sabots were helpful in two situations - longer shots - out to 100 - 125yds, and I experienced better groups with sabots vs rifled slugs especially at longer distances.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox
Winchester Super X 2-3/4" 1oz 1600FPS.........50yd shot zero @ 50yds
0yds -1.5"
25yds -0.2"
50yds 0
75yds -1.5"
100rds -5"
125rds -10.8"
150rds -19.2"
Remington AccuTip 2-3/4" 385Gr 1850FPS.........50yd shot zero @ 50yds
0yds - 1.5"
25yds - 0.4"
50yds 0
75yds -1.5"
100rds - 1.9"
125rds - 4.4"
150rds - 8.5"
$6 for 5 is a lot different than $24 for 5!! Inside of 60yds dead is dead!
Hi 410001661,Quote:
Originally Posted by 410001661
I use the app extensively and I am sure you know, but for anyone else, the BDC reticles holdover points are only valid (recommended) at max magnification, and within the app you have the option to view the POI (point of impact) at different scope zoom level which makes a huge difference (Ask me how I know ;-) )
I always zero in my shotgun at 25 and it is true at 100 as well. 50, 75, 125 (my max) are only inches off my point of aim, so I am not too concerned with the preciseness for a big game as deer
Hornady 385gr, 1800fps, mossberg 535 rifled barrel
I setup my Remington 870 20 Guage with a rifled barrel and saddle scope mount I bought premium sabot shells and had horrible groups at 50 yards. Lol
I went and bought a Savage 220 dedicated slug gun. Problem solved... :)
I`ve never heard of a 385gr sabot slug from Hornady. Do you mean Remington?Quote:
Originally Posted by mikedinoro
A buddy had same setup as you. Bought the 20ga remington 2 barrel combo. The rifled barrel was all over the place. Ended up using the smoothbore barrel come deer season as it grouped better. Wasn`t long getting rid of it after the season. Gunsmith said remington made the barrels too short(18 inch I think) and that was the cause for accuracy issues. I used to use a 12ga with the saddle mount with a bit longer barrel that shot fine. Got tired of punishing my shoulder whenever I upgraded the scope.Quote:
Originally Posted by bellerivercrossbowhunter
Thanks for catching that, 300gr sstQuote:
Originally Posted by cantgetright
Remington rifled barrels are usually 20" and 24" theres also a Mossberg rifled barrel for an 870 that is different.
Barrel length and twist rate are different in all these barrels. Most sabots are all different speeds, weights. Fast shooting Hornadys and Remington accu tips need a fast twist rate to stabilize the bullet.
Try slower shells in the 1550-1700fps in the Remington barrels.
I've pissed around a lot with these barrels as well. I now use a 220 because the 870 wasn't grouping as well as I liked at 125+ yards.
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I have a Mossberg 535 with rifled barrel and send Hornady 2-3/4 300 grain SST down range. I have experienced flyers from time to time with this ammo. Two years ago I spine shot two of the three deer I shot, the third was a perfect double lung. My aim was the same spot on all three so was it user error, the gun, the ammo or a combo of all three.
Talked to guys that love the Remington Accu-Tips and Federal TSX so thinking of changing ammo to eliminate one of the three issues this fall
My son and I have a 535 (My old gun from last year) and my new 835 with rifled barrels.
I tried Hornady through mine 4 boxes and they were every place. My son and I went out today as we just got his gun back from the gun smith.
We tried Hornady through his and they were ok but not very good.
I then tried Federal Blue Box in mine (835) dead on 4 shots no adjustments. We tried the last one in his dead on. Next we tried the Browning's in mine 4 shots all dead on. Try one shot through his 535 and dead on. Last we tried the Federal Premiums 1 through the 835 and 1 through the 535 very nice but not as good as the Browning's or the Blue Box.
My ranking for the 535 & 835
Federal Blue Box & Browning 5/5
Federal Premium 4/5
Hornady 1/5
Quote:
Originally Posted by huntnmachine
I have an 870, 20g, with a rifled cantilevered barrel. I mounted a Vortex red dot.I have an assortment of sabots to try. Hopefully I can get some to give a good grouping. Anybody have a similar set up with slugs it likes ?
If I don’t get good results, I see a 220 in my future !!
Yep......that's it Remington Accutip.......sorry mind fartQuote:
Originally Posted by cantgetright
Good point. I do not use a Nikon scope and in the App I ignore the 'Expand BDC' and 'Field Chart' as they are only applicable if you have a Nikon scope. Skip these and go right to the last tab called 'Ballistic Table' - this tab in the data you want to see. This will work regardless of what you have on your gun (iron sights, scope or red dot). This tab shows the performance of the slug/bullet based on the distance you are shooting and the distance you want your gun zero'd at.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikedinoro
Strelok is a really good ballistic app. It has 100s of different scope reticles on it that gives you bdc dots for your set up.
Buy the strelok pro and it will give you more options, The best one is an animal in the reticle showing how big the dots are for your scope at various ranges.
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Probably it is all not that hard for slug guns/scopes-just about every mfg. for sabot slugs have ballistic charts for 12-20 g, and for 2 3/4 "and 3 " shells, with bullet drops generally up to 150-200 y. and energy at those distances .
That is all it is needed for up to 150 y shooting.
Beyond that is a moot point to know the slug drop/energy.
While animals are taken beyond 150 y with slugs, it is getting into Hail Mary category.My 2 cents.
Lead sled...good luck....shotguns are brutual to site in.
Not really like any gun you may need to try a few different brands.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonura
OK set up at 30yrd and here are my results
Attachment 40878
Attachment 40879
My 1st 3 shots (green box) then I adjusted scope to the left a little to far (yellow box) and fired 3 more times, then adjusted to the right (red box) and choose to leave alone after the last 3 shots I didn't go out to 50 yards as I ranged where blind is to the apples and had 27 yards with heavy bush all around so I wanted to make sure I'm on for a single shot and drop and try and get away from tracking in the heavy bush.
With a 30 yard site in your still good to go out to 90 + yards.
I sighted in at 25 yards so good for 80 + our feed piles are 25 yards away and you won't even see the deer at 60 yards anyways where we are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick_ca