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Thread: Beaver Dam breaking tips

  1. #11
    Getting the hang of it

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fenelon View Post
    Make sure it's either on your private property or on your registered line if it's on crown (you're the 01 trapper for the land). Could cost you a pile of money in court if it isn't !
    Luckily I am the head/only registered trapper for this land. I also am a partial landowner of this lot which means I need to trap in season.
    Wish I could drive ATV to this one dam rather than canoe or do forest trec to get to it.
    Usually I leave the dams so I can trap again two years later when new beavers return.
    Now that their work is effecting our ATV trail, it will be a full out war to finish the job at this one area.
    One Shot = One Kill

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  3. #12
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    TANNERITE

  4. #13
    Getting the hang of it

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    Don't use the chainsaw - just my recommendation.
    The beavers add a lot of rocks to the dam, at least in my experience.
    I've torn them apart - at least a hole big enough for the water to drain - by hand, sometimes using a heavy stone rake, sometimes a log peavey helps.
    Good luck.

  5. #14
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    My vote is tannerite also, Ive seen it work

  6. #15
    Getting the hang of it

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    Tannerite was fun to play with on the range but may work too well for a beaver dam in known wet land.
    I can't confirm yet, but I was told of two stories in our area with dynamite use in the past.
    It worked too well and created wash out sending massive amount of sand down land and causing significant drainage to the wet land which caught the attention of the ministry.
    Ministry gave warning in one case and a fine for the other, so I am told. Not sure if it was MOE or MNR.
    Planning to head up this weekend to lower the dam using a cultivator rake, long handle branch cutter and pulling apart by hand. Then see what I can trap as rebuild starts.
    One Shot = One Kill

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