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December 6th, 2013, 09:06 PM
#11
Originally Posted by
scarkner
You do NOT have to keep the batteries warm. Batteries generate a lot of heat when you use them, you may find that there is little power when you first start the hole, but the batteries will warm up and by the time you get to the end of the hole (where you need the most power) they are up to full power. We even left the drill out on the ice overnight once, -22C, worked fine the next morning.
Bah! Whatta you know about batteries, anyway!
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December 6th, 2013 09:06 PM
# ADS
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December 7th, 2013, 11:43 PM
#12
Looking forward to trying this out. Like Scarkner said, you don't need to keep the batteries warm. I use these same drills and batteries outdoors all winter and they hold a charge unbelievably well.
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December 8th, 2013, 09:37 AM
#13
Originally Posted by
Leedog
Looking forward to trying this out. Like Scarkner said, you don't need to keep the batteries warm. I use these same drills and batteries outdoors all winter and they hold a charge unbelievably well.
Most newer Lithium Ion batteries are thermal guarded for working in cold weather. That looks pretty slick.
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December 12th, 2013, 02:43 PM
#14
I would like to try this this winter, will it work if I just buy this from CT?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/el...-0788167p.html
Thanks
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December 14th, 2013, 10:39 AM
#15
I have been using a C.T.C. lithium ion powered hammer drill for a few years now with no problem on a 6" Finn-Bore auger. I carry a second battery but don't often need it till later in the winter. ( It is cheaper to buy the drill and battery at 50% off than buying spare batteries)The transition device from drill chuck to auger shaft that Nadshuge was asking about is missing an important part that will save you from losing your auger when inevitably your chuck will loosen, and the auger may be lost in the hole. There is a better adapter device available that has a built in shock cord device that bungees around the back of your drill. This keeps the adapter which is bolted to your auger pulled tight against the drill chuck, even when it loosens off. It also allows the shaft to spin without tangling the shock cord. n I bought mine at Tremblays in Orillia. I've forgotten the name brand. They cost around $25 , and are available on line elsewhere. Good Luck
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December 14th, 2013, 03:36 PM
#16
Remember that's inch/pounds of torque, not foot/pounds. If it was foot pounds I wouldn't want to be holding the drill.
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December 16th, 2013, 07:33 AM
#17
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December 17th, 2013, 11:42 AM
#18
thanks I will try what scarkner has. Maybe some hard plastic instead of steel. I will let you know what works for me.
Thanks
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December 17th, 2013, 12:18 PM
#19
Thank you for the tip and Pic Scarkner.
bobby
"is anybody alive out there"
The Boss - Bruce Springsteen
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December 20th, 2013, 02:47 PM
#20
Originally Posted by
nadshuge
thanks I will try what scarkner has. Maybe some hard plastic instead of steel. I will let you know what works for me.
Thanks
I would not reccomend plastic! I did that the first year. The first time it came off the drill the plastic hit the ice and shattered. This was a thick (1/4 inch!) piece of ABS/PC blended material cut into a disc (pretty!) that I thought had plenty of strength, but the combination of cold and the force of the auger pulling itself through the ice was too much. Its hard to get a feel for, but the force of the auger coming off the drill as it breaks through the ice is MUCH higher than the force of simply dropping the auger. Because it is spinning and has inertia built up, it slams, HARD, against the surface of the ice.
I was lucky that enough of the plastic held to keep me from losing the auger.