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Thread: 10ML-II Crown Mod.

  1. #1

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    Default 10ML-II Crown Mod.

    Instead of a long winded explanation I will try to keep this mod description down to a minimum.
    To help the transition of a sabot into the muzzle Iíve employed using a chamfer that acts like a swaging form.
    The first picture is from my previous barrel that had a 11-degree crown along with a 30-degree chamfer added by machining. It worked really well until the barrel was damaged and had to be replaced.

    With the replacement barrel I decided to try a slightly different approach before getting it eventually machined. Here Iíve added a smaller 30-degree chamfer to see if a deeper chamfer was really required. This current chamfer was done by stone bit and die grinder. Now I donít recommend you run out and try this because it takes a lot of care to get the chamfer even all around. So far so good but will need more time for a proper evaluation.

    Barrel 2 Crown.JPG

    Barrel 3 Chamfer.jpg

    Just thought this might be of interest.


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  3. #2
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    Well that peeked my interest.. knowing how important it is not to damage the lip on the sabot, you may be on to something.

    I couldn't find any definitive reason for the 11 degree 'standard' and since it's more applicable to center fire barrels, what your proposing for an ML barrell crown is really quite clever. Kudos.

  4. #3

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    Thank you for the kind words.

    When we stop and look what is required from a sabot itís amazing what it accomplishes.
    1) Holds back thousands of pounds of pressure.
    2) Is required to impart a specific RPM for flight stabilization.
    3) Properly releasing the bullet on its flight path.

    The sabot is a key element for consideration of care when itís being used. When loading if the sabot is being stressed to fit by quickly adjusting to a specific diameter this canít be good. By adding a chamfer to create an easier diameter transition then the reasoning is less stress to the sabot.

    This is not a new concept by me but an adapted carry-over I borrowed from what a QLA was designed for. When I first started out I needed the help of a short starting rod. Now I donít even require one, even with a tight load.


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