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Thread: Zeroing for 100 Vs 200

  1. #11
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    Depends on what reticle you use, what distance you will usually shoot, whether you holdover or dial your comeups AND whether you wish fast shots, or precision hits.

    For example if you use a mildot reticle and precision hits are your task at hand, zero at 100, and dial up per your VALIDATED ballistic chart, PDA or FDAC. Then dial and click.

    If on the other hand you use a mildot reticle and want quick hits, one can zero at a longer distance, validate that dope at each distance and then use mildots as a BDC OR dial in a "median distance" into the optic and point and click near to far, similar to a hunting PBR.

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  3. #12
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    200 yard zero for a coyote gun makes sense. I have mine zeroed for that. 300 yard shots I still hold top of its back. Love the .22-250, it hammers coyotes.

  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
    Depends on what reticle you use, what distance you will usually shoot, whether you holdover or dial your comeups AND whether you wish fast shots, or precision hits.

    For example if you use a mildot reticle and precision hits are your task at hand, zero at 100, and dial up per your VALIDATED ballistic chart, PDA or FDAC. Then dial and click.

    If on the other hand you use a mildot reticle and want quick hits, one can zero at a longer distance, validate that dope at each distance and then use mildots as a BDC OR dial in a "median distance" into the optic and point and click near to far, similar to a hunting PBR.

    This is what makes sense to me as well. Almost every scope I have utilizes mil dot or BDC reticle even ML and Shotgun. It takes a lot of guess work out of things. Usually zero at 100 for most everything and for sluggers or ML you shoot dead on at 200 and see which dot or cross the drop relates to. Basically a harder thing is to accurately judge distance of your field. I range find key objects in my field of fire and that helps!

  5. #14
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    Yes sir exactly. Other than wind, distance is next hardest to judge accurately and since bullet drop is more severe at longer distance, judging distance accurately it is critical to hitting the target.
    I was better at judging distance while shooting when I played golf frequently.

    Using a LRF to pre range likely spots where game may appear is also a good idea and quicker and more error free than mildot ranging.

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