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Thread: Fleshing knife-how sharp?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dilly View Post
    I thought of that. I am more interested in hearing from those who are using them.

    Seems it really ranges between “mine is razor sharp” to “keep it dull”. I may just have to find my own way through trial and error.
    The one I have has a really sharp blade on one side and the other side is a fairly dull blade....When I first started I used to try and use the sharp side but found I would cut through the hide too easily.... Now I just use the dull side of the blade to push the membrane (not cut) but to push the membrane down/off.... I do find it easier to push that membrane (flushing the coyote) when it (the hide) has time to cool off...
    "Everything is easy when you know how"
    "Meat is not grown in stores"

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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by trappermatt View Post
    That was a great video...thanks for posting it
    "Everything is easy when you know how"
    "Meat is not grown in stores"

  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by trappermatt View Post
    It does...thanks Matt

  5. #14
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    I have the same one. I wonder the same thing. The way it is. It doesnít remove any flesh. POS.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goosesniper View Post
    I have the same one. I wonder the same thing. The way it is. It doesnít remove any flesh. POS.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    This is exactly what I was wondering...

    So, let me explain again. I have fleshed four coyotes, two coons, and a skunk. I made a fleshing "knife" from a curved piece of lexan plexiglass attached to a 14" piece of hockey stick shaft. I read somewhere that this was good for a beginner because it couldn't be sharpened to an edge that would cut hide. It works. Like I said, I have used it, but it takes forever and a ton of elbow grease. After watching lots of videos and trying to improve my technique, I decided maybe a better knife would be the way to go. After receiving this one, I swear the edge is LESS sharp than my plexiglass one. Hence my post asking for information.

    Regardless, I think I will try it "as is" and see how it works. I will sharpen as necessary to where I can get it to work. I was just looking for a nudge in the right direction.

  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by fratri View Post
    The one I have has a really sharp blade on one side and the other side is a fairly dull blade....When I first started I used to try and use the sharp side but found I would cut through the hide too easily.... Now I just use the dull side of the blade to push the membrane (not cut) but to push the membrane down/off.... I do find it easier to push that membrane (flushing the coyote) when it (the hide) has time to cool off...
    As always Frank, thanks for sharing your experiences.

  8. #17
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    Have seen guys use fleshing knifes from dull rounded paint peelers too razor sharp neckers. Tried a guys flesher that was a old 6 pound triangle lathe blade, dull as all get out. Did not even have handles. By the time I was done a raccoon my arms felt like they where going to fall off. He swore by it and put up a ton of fur each year. Some like dull edges other guys like razor sharp.

    From experience you will cut hide starting with a razor sharp edge but if you can find the sweet spot a lot less elbow grease required.

    Best advice I got was try different ones and when you find the one that works for you stick with it.


    I am still looking lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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