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July 6th, 2019, 10:21 PM
#11
Seems that way. I have auto headlights so maybe at night when they are on full, the trailer lights might be still on. I seldom drive at night so I've never really checked that scenario. How I found out about this was the last day I was trying to figure out my lights my neighbor walked by and said I had no headlights on the truck even though it was idling in the driveway--not even the daytime running lights. Yeah! Voodoo for sure.
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July 6th, 2019 10:21 PM
# ADS
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July 8th, 2019, 09:34 AM
#12
Has too much time on their hands
I solved the whole trailer light problem by using the magnetic ones. My trailer has diamond plate side steps on either side that I attach them to. Pull them off before you launch, throw them back on after you pull the boat out of the water. I store them inside the house and they seem to be holding up well.
-Nick
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July 8th, 2019, 05:56 PM
#13

Originally Posted by
Sprite
I solved the whole trailer light problem by using the magnetic ones. My trailer has diamond plate side steps on either side that I attach them to. Pull them off before you launch, throw them back on after you pull the boat out of the water. I store them inside the house and they seem to be holding up well.
-Nick
Well you think you may have solved your problem but it's illegal. Lights must be permanently attached, find it under the link. https://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/motorvehicl...image1-856.htm
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July 8th, 2019, 06:37 PM
#14

Originally Posted by
Fisherman
I think you will find that those federal requirements are for manufacturers and/or importers. The HTA has no such requirements of permanent placement......unless it has been changed recently.
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July 8th, 2019, 06:48 PM
#15

Originally Posted by
Fisherman
Youre also not supposed to go 110 in a 100 zone.
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July 8th, 2019, 08:57 PM
#16

Originally Posted by
rick_iles
I think you will find that those federal requirements are for manufacturers and/or importers. The HTA has no such requirements of permanent placement......unless it has been changed recently.
Ya and you are supposed to maintain the vehicle as it was manufactured too. Just saying and trying to save someone the hassle.
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July 8th, 2019, 08:58 PM
#17

Originally Posted by
blasted_saber
Youre also not supposed to go 110 in a 100 zone.
Completely different subject, now buzz off and go fish.
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July 9th, 2019, 06:56 AM
#18
I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure the HTA only requires one working red light while trailering. One of the few useless things I remember from my useless police foundations course 20 years ago lol.
x90 on the trailer lights being voodoo. last winter while heading to the Port Perry snowmobile club my truck tells me the trailer is disconnected .. . . funny it wasn't. I had no brakes and running lights. Two seasons prior to this I had the same issue, turned out the connection to the breakaway battery was fudged. Simple 200 dollar fix because I didn't have time to do it myself. So I get poking around under the trailer and discover a complete rats nest disaster factory wiring. I also discover the connections to the breakaway battery are about as blue and rotted as it gets. Should be a simple fix. I replaced the battery. No dice . . . WTF. Replace the breakaway switch . . . . no dice. Keep in mind this is the day before I am leaving for a week of sledding and ice fishing in march. I then replace every connection in the junction box . … still not working . . . . . its like midnight at this point. The next morning im standing in my basement looking out the window at the trailer in the driveway and I notice a wire hanging off the axle..... I go out, jack the trailer up, crawl under and no kidding a broken ground wire to the brakes. Lesson learned, it may be simpler then it seems lol.
Also, move the junction box into the trailer if you can. Things weather a little slower!
Last edited by toddy; July 9th, 2019 at 06:59 AM.
Things that fly turn me on
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July 9th, 2019, 07:56 AM
#19
[QUOTE=sawbill;1087189]

Originally Posted by
blasted_saber
Trailer lights are voodoo.[/QUOTE
No truer words spoken. I spend 2 full days trying to get the lights on my utility trailer to work. After changing everything out from the connection to the truck to the taillights on the trailer I finally discovered my Chev Silverado has to be in Drive to make the lights work. The neighborhood knew I wasn't happy.
Something is seriously wrong if your truck has to be in "drive" for the trailer lights to work. There's one hell of a short circuit for that to happen,especially,if there's no blown fuses. It's a wonder the main computer isn't fried.
If a tree falls on your ex in the woods and nobody hears it,you should probably still get rid of your chainsaw. Just sayin'....
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July 9th, 2019, 08:43 AM
#20
[QUOTE=trimmer21;1087315]

Originally Posted by
sawbill
Something is seriously wrong if your truck has to be in "drive" for the trailer lights to work. There's one hell of a short circuit for that to happen,especially,if there's no blown fuses. It's a wonder the main computer isn't fried.
Trailer lights are a pain in the arse!! I found out quickly, fortunately, if the truck lights were on “auto”, trailer lights don’t work. A test light will help a lot !! I have a small trailer we haul the Argo on, moose hunting. It doesn’t matter what I do, I can count on the lights not working properly. Our camp trailer was the same. We finally went the magnetic mount route and have not had an issue since...
EDIT: I see Princess Auto has them on sale...15 bucks !
Last edited by rick_iles; July 9th, 2019 at 08:54 AM.