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Thread: sighting in slug shotgun

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikePal View Post
    For my bush guns, I've always sighted in 1" high at 50 yd...covers me for 20 -100 yds. Why waste a lot of slugs sighting in for 100 yd when that is the max for a short range set-up.
    Agreed, I've watched many at the range go through all their slugs at 100yds and still no better off then when they started..lol.
    Much easier to shoot slugs at 50yds and adjust from there.

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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by canadaman30 View Post
    Agreed, I've watched many at the range go through all their slugs at 100yds and still no better off then when they started..lol.
    Yea once the shoulder has absorbed the recoil from a dozen slugs, you start to flinch and the whole endeavour turns out to be a waste of time. HaHa..
    Arte et marte (By Skill and by Fighting)...The RCEME motto

  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Jack View Post
    I doubt the Tasco will hold up to the recoil.
    If the scope has sentimental value put it on something with less kick.
    I agree.

  5. #14
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    If shooting to 30 y ,why not sight it in at 50 y zero?Then You will be -2" or 2.5" at 100 y,so you are good to go either way-yet having your zero where you need it.Saves time -money and shoulder.

  6. #15
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    I don’t know guys - Sight in to where you shoot IMO.

    If you may have a shot at 100 then sight in there.

    Assuming you are good at 100 when you have an ok group at 50 is not a good idea.

    These aren’t rifles.

    Most sabots will shoot ok to 50 but at 100 they may not even hit paper.

    Biggest problem I see at the range is guys not letting their thin slug barrels cool between shots.

    If your gun likes the load it usually only takes all of 5 or 6 rounds to be on at 100.

  7. #16
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    Am I the only one who thinks there is no need for a fully rifled barrel and partition gold slugs to shoot a max 30 yards? I would grab the duck barrel and throw a box of each of the cheap slugs down the tube, Winchester, Federal and Remington, I bet the animal would not know the difference at 30 yards.

    I have clamp on Williams sights on the turkey barrel, they are sighted in for Challenger slugs at 75 yards, but the 3in Winchesters group about the same. The challenger took down a 250lb Russian Boar last December with a single shot at 20 yards, dropped on the spot.

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fox View Post
    Am I the only one who thinks there is no need for a fully rifled barrel and partition gold slugs to shoot a max 30 yards? I would grab the duck barrel and throw a box of each of the cheap slugs down the tube, Winchester, Federal and Remington, I bet the animal would not know the difference at 30 yards.

    I have clamp on Williams sights on the turkey barrel, they are sighted in for Challenger slugs at 75 yards, but the 3in Winchesters group about the same. The challenger took down a 250lb Russian Boar last December with a single shot at 20 yards, dropped on the spot.
    1st its a Mossberg 935 so duck barrel is back bored and slugs not recommended
    2nd I'm a short sighted old fart and slug barrel fitting with a 4 power scope trust me if i was shooting further i wouldn't have asked.

  9. #18
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    Line your gun for the distance your hunting. Have it bang on at 30 yards then take a shot at 50 and 100 so you know where they hit.

    Sabots really aren't that expensive after you got it dialed in, slug a deer at that range

    Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
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  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_ca View Post
    1st its a Mossberg 935 so duck barrel is back bored and slugs not recommended
    2nd I'm a short sighted old fart and slug barrel fitting with a 4 power scope trust me if i was shooting further i wouldn't have asked.
    Gotcha, I thought there had to be a reason for it. I had a friend with the back bored mossberg, did not make the patterns any better but had a bunch of restrictions, made he shy away from them.

    Were you already sighted in for 100 yards? You are not trying to shoot a mosquito off their back, if you are a vitals shooter you have a lot of room up and down to hit the animal. I would lean towards the maximum point blank range, I have started doing this with every gun. You sight in so that you get the most range based on the vitals of the animal. If the animal is a deer you have an 8in vertical range for the vitals, even on a fawn. To give myself some play I drop that down to 6in. I then sight in so that the bullet will impact no more than 3in above of below the crosshair and then determine my maximum range. You can pull this down to 2in for varmints or 1in for things like rabbits, but the idea is that you just need to know that your shot will not be over that max range and line up on the center of the vitals. It is amazing what sort of ranges you would still have a kill shot with cartridges normally considered "short range" and "rainbow trajectory". This is a little tougher with a shotgun as you do not know the details of the bullet as well as with rifle bullets and reloading. You can use the ballistics table to get an idea though, the Hornady 300gr SST sighted in for 150 yards will be under 3in high all the way back to the muzzle, so a 100 yard zero would be even flatter than that, totally acceptable for your situation but still allowing for that long shot if it presented itself.

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fox View Post
    Gotcha, I thought there had to be a reason for it. I had a friend with the back bored mossberg, did not make the patterns any better but had a bunch of restrictions, made he shy away from them.

    Were you already sighted in for 100 yards? You are not trying to shoot a mosquito off their back, if you are a vitals shooter you have a lot of room up and down to hit the animal. I would lean towards the maximum point blank range, I have started doing this with every gun. You sight in so that you get the most range based on the vitals of the animal. If the animal is a deer you have an 8in vertical range for the vitals, even on a fawn. To give myself some play I drop that down to 6in. I then sight in so that the bullet will impact no more than 3in above of below the crosshair and then determine my maximum range. You can pull this down to 2in for varmints or 1in for things like rabbits, but the idea is that you just need to know that your shot will not be over that max range and line up on the center of the vitals. It is amazing what sort of ranges you would still have a kill shot with cartridges normally considered "short range" and "rainbow trajectory". This is a little tougher with a shotgun as you do not know the details of the bullet as well as with rifle bullets and reloading. You can use the ballistics table to get an idea though, the Hornady 300gr SST sighted in for 150 yards will be under 3in high all the way back to the muzzle, so a 100 yard zero would be even flatter than that, totally acceptable for your situation but still allowing for that long shot if it presented itself.
    Fox I completely agree with you. If you are in deep cover and are not shooting out past 30-60yds then a smooth bore and rifled slugs will do the job quite nicely and cheaply. I used my 24" turkey gun and Winchester 2-3/4" Super X slugs for years and they worked fine. I thought sabots were helpful in two situations - longer shots - out to 100 - 125yds, and I experienced better groups with sabots vs rifled slugs especially at longer distances.

    Winchester Super X 2-3/4" 1oz 1600FPS.........50yd shot zero @ 50yds
    0yds -1.5"
    25yds -0.2"
    50yds 0
    75yds -1.5"
    100rds -5"
    125rds -10.8"
    150rds -19.2"

    Remington AccuTip 2-3/4" 385Gr 1850FPS.........50yd shot zero @ 50yds
    0yds - 1.5"
    25yds - 0.4"
    50yds 0
    75yds -1.5"
    100rds - 1.9"
    125rds - 4.4"
    150rds - 8.5"

    $6 for 5 is a lot different than $24 for 5!! Inside of 60yds dead is dead!

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