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January 23rd, 2017, 12:29 PM
#11

Originally Posted by
Species8472
Any softener that uses salt to regenerate will add salt to the water. This is why the resin is called ion exchange resin, it exchanges sodium ions for the ions that cause hardness. The harder your water is the more salt gets added to soften it. Most water is not hard enough that the consumer can taste the salt after the water is softened - if you are softening "concrete water" as I call it - you will taste it. I think perhaps you are thinking of a malfunction that can occur where the brine solution bleeds directly into the service water. In that case you are correct and service is required.
Typically not enough sodium to matter, and usually in the form of sodium bicarbonate, not sodium chloride. But regardless, if it is an issue, don't use it. I too live with "concrete water".
I've also used softened water to hose off rifles crusted with mud, then wipe down with CLP without issue. ( of course they weren't mine)....
"Camo" is perfectly acceptable as a favorite colour.
Proud member - Delta Waterfowl, CSSA, and OFAH
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January 23rd, 2017 12:29 PM
# ADS
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January 23rd, 2017, 08:49 PM
#12
[QUOTE=Bluebulldog;1013068]Not to sidetrack the thread, but if your soft water has salt in it, you need a new softener. /QUOTE]
I have to agree with this. My water is very hard as well. Mid thirty on the scale. It's not the salt that does the softening but the media that the water passes through. The salt brine is used to clean the media of mineral build up and then fresh water rinses the salt residue out after regeneration. My water has zero salty taste.
Cheers
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January 24th, 2017, 11:04 AM
#13
Has too much time on their hands
I would avoid applying any oils directly to gun stocks, beyond a light rubdown with a slightly oily cloth after cleaning. Oil absorbed into the grain can stain and will weaken wood.
"What calm deer hunter's heart has not skipped a beat when the stillness of a cold November morning is broken by the echoes of hounds tonguing yonder?" -Anonymous-
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January 25th, 2017, 05:31 AM
#14
On the same note, if you do get an oil stain in your wood, take a generous amount of baby/talcum powder and apply to the wood for a few days. It should draw out all the oil.
Many years ago I unknowingly had a large oil stain soak through plywood protecting a Terazzo floor on a renovation job. I brushed a bunch of drywall dust under the plywood for a few weeks and it completely removed the stain. I thought I was gonna take a beating for an expensive floor repair for sure.
John
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January 25th, 2017, 05:38 AM
#15
Dont start with water I would just use the toothbrush and scrub with the cut lines both directions. The mud is now dry it will turn to sand or dust and fall out. When everything is said and done just take a little water and rise it out while washing. No big thing.