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December 10th, 2019, 07:51 AM
#11

Originally Posted by
line052
I get it and your concern, and respect those limits. However, modern BP is not the smokeless even less so with homemade, keeping the measurements within stated composition, following same set procedures during manufacturing of BP is the best way to ensure consistency each time. I don't have the barrel measuring system for max CUP, and my crony is not working, but the kick is far less then a 7.5 gun club load and would be fine for rabbit and squirrel (which is the point)
Is it a risk, yes, do I accept that risk, yes. I load 34grs of Longshot into my .690 round ball loads for 3" (gun club hulls - BPS TPS slug wads - 1/8' over shot card and roll crimp) and there is no formula in any of the 3 shotgun loading books I have for round ball, so I go by shot weight.
What I do is not willy nilly.
"Gun Club Hulls"?
Are you lining up the hulls with specific reloading data? Hulls cannot be interchanged like rifle brass, and even rifle brass cannot be interchanged with max loads and have a safe load.
Did you read that article? They are stating that the pressure from a BP load is running close to double the maximum load of the SAAMI specification for shotguns. With these loads you would essentially be proofing the gun with every single shot.
You say that what you do not not willy nilly but it sure seems as so here and I really worry that someone else will do what you are doing and blow up their gun, worse yet they could kill themselves or someone else.
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December 10th, 2019 07:51 AM
# ADS
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December 27th, 2019, 05:24 PM
#12

Originally Posted by
line052
Been doing some research (YouTube..lol) and came across Dave Canterbury who has extensive videos and and a adapter to convert modern single shotguns into BP with a 209 primer (have not ordered yet). I find this stuff fascinating, and in the process of making my own BP and in the meantime been using cut off high brass shells with FFF, wax paper wads and lead/steel shot, using WIN 209 primers. Smoke and fire is cool - equal volume shot to powder and the pattern effects are the samish at 30yrds with #4, #6, #7.5 and .690 round balls. Modern arms actually take higher pressures then BP, that does not mean go crazy... 90grs FFF is highest load tested so far (110 gr for Hawkins .50 with 250 REAL bullet, is deer load). Good news is, bore snake makes cleaning barrel a breeze.
Just lots of fun and wow cool factor.
You might find some of this info helpful:
BLACK POWDER LOAD DATA FOR MUZZLE LOADING SHOTGUNS:
Source GUNS & AMMO 1974 ANNUAL
-------------------------------------------Charge -----------------Shot Wt.
Gauge....... Powder...............Drams........ Grains ........... oz.
12 .................FFg................. 3 1/4............ 89.............1 1/4 Heavy
..............................................3.0 ................82.............1 1/4 Medium
...............................................2 3/4.............76.............1 1/8 Light
14 .................FFg..................3 1/8.............86................1 1/8 Heavy
...............................................2 3/4.............76...............1.0 Medium
...............................................2 1/2.............69...............1.0 Light
16 ..................FFg.................2 3/4..............76...............1.0 Heavy
...............................................2 1/2..............69...............1.0 Medium
...............................................2 1/4..............61...............1.0 Light
For the ML my initial wadding over the powder is newspaper, I find it makes it easier to pack the powder. After the newspaper I've found a one piece (lead) plastic wads work well. With the the one piece steel wads, I take the base wad off and just use the shot cup which I slid down on top of a felt wad that has been loaded over the newspaper. For the 20 gauge, for years I've just used newspaper for wads. I start with a small amount for packing the powder, then add more to thicken it up to have a good base to push the shot. Of late I've picked up some one piece(lead) plastic wads, which I insert over the initial newspaper packing wad.
You don't stop hunting because you grow old. You grow old because you stop hunting.
- Gun Nut
Last edited by Gun Nut; December 27th, 2019 at 05:38 PM.
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December 30th, 2019, 06:57 AM
#13
Has too much time on their hands
Awesome data - I do follow Dave Canterbury who uses equal volume of shot and powder. He has wrote several books on the subject.

Originally Posted by
Gun Nut
You might find some of this info helpful:
BLACK POWDER LOAD DATA FOR MUZZLE LOADING SHOTGUNS:
Source GUNS & AMMO 1974 ANNUAL
-------------------------------------------Charge -----------------Shot Wt.
Gauge....... Powder...............Drams........ Grains ........... oz.
12 .................FFg................. 3 1/4............ 89.............1 1/4 Heavy
..............................................3.0 ................82.............1 1/4 Medium
...............................................2 3/4.............76.............1 1/8 Light
14 .................FFg..................3 1/8.............86................1 1/8 Heavy
...............................................2 3/4.............76...............1.0 Medium
...............................................2 1/2.............69...............1.0 Light
16 ..................FFg.................2 3/4..............76...............1.0 Heavy
...............................................2 1/2..............69...............1.0 Medium
...............................................2 1/4..............61...............1.0 Light
For the ML my initial wadding over the powder is newspaper, I find it makes it easier to pack the powder. After the newspaper I've found a one piece (lead) plastic wads work well. With the the one piece steel wads, I take the base wad off and just use the shot cup which I slid down on top of a felt wad that has been loaded over the newspaper. For the 20 gauge, for years I've just used newspaper for wads. I start with a small amount for packing the powder, then add more to thicken it up to have a good base to push the shot. Of late I've picked up some one piece(lead) plastic wads, which I insert over the initial newspaper packing wad.
You don't stop hunting because you grow old. You grow old because you stop hunting.
- Gun Nut
Mark Snow, Leader Of The, Ontario Libertarian Party
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December 30th, 2019, 07:26 AM
#14
Has too much time on their hands
OMG yes I use Lymons 5th Edition Manual to select my hulls for the .690 round balls, plus I used to follow TATV until they removed many of his videos on reloading (at least he had pressure gauge) I also follow Bubba Roundtree Outdoors who does extensive testing of Round Ball with different loads, wads and powders, he casts all his own buckshot/Slugs/Balls. The .690 round ball load came from one of his testing sessions.
Tell you what - What I do is fine for me - If you don't want to do it, don't do it. I have been reloading and casting and playing this field for a about 5 yrs and have tried 100's of load and powder/wads/shells/primer combos. Used to be I sorted all my hulls by brands, the new Lymon manual lays out hulls by manufacture process and hull composition which makes all the hulls more sortable.
I quote from you:
"You say that what you do not not willy nilly but it sure seems as so here and I really worry that someone else will do what you are doing and blow up their gun, worse yet they could kill themselves or someone else"
You make it sound like I am just winging it with an uneducated comment like that..jesh. I reference Dave Cantebury and people can use free will and educated choices and do what they want. He is the most knowledgeable subject matter expert. P.S. the link you provided speaks to different brands of commercial powder comparisons, and only proves commercial load data switching is not recommended as it does not have the testing as Shotgun and rifle loads, which are proven with multiple sources and testing.

Originally Posted by
Fox
"Gun Club Hulls"?
Are you lining up the hulls with specific reloading data? Hulls cannot be interchanged like rifle brass, and even rifle brass cannot be interchanged with max loads and have a safe load.
Did you read that article? They are stating that the pressure from a BP load is running close to double the maximum load of the SAAMI specification for shotguns. With these loads you would essentially be proofing the gun with every single shot.
You say that what you do not not willy nilly but it sure seems as so here and I really worry that someone else will do what you are doing and blow up their gun, worse yet they could kill themselves or someone else.
Mark Snow, Leader Of The, Ontario Libertarian Party
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December 30th, 2019, 07:30 AM
#15
Has too much time on their hands
P.S. don't go over to Gunnuts and review "wildcat" reloading forum page- you will lose you mind....

Originally Posted by
Fox
"Gun Club Hulls"?
Are you lining up the hulls with specific reloading data? Hulls cannot be interchanged like rifle brass, and even rifle brass cannot be interchanged with max loads and have a safe load.
Did you read that article? They are stating that the pressure from a BP load is running close to double the maximum load of the SAAMI specification for shotguns. With these loads you would essentially be proofing the gun with every single shot.
You say that what you do not not willy nilly but it sure seems as so here and I really worry that someone else will do what you are doing and blow up their gun, worse yet they could kill themselves or someone else.
Mark Snow, Leader Of The, Ontario Libertarian Party
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January 6th, 2020, 08:46 AM
#16

Originally Posted by
line052
P.S. don't go over to Gunnuts and review "wildcat" reloading forum page- you will lose you mind....
I make ammo for guns that do not have any loading data, very old guns, 1 is a rimfire.
The problem is that you are suggesting that others take a primed case that you cut off at the brass, load that into a shotgun then point it at yourself while you load in powder, wads and shot.
You are also using unknown components, if you take a look at the reloading books there is a significant different in measured pressures from different hulls and wad combinations. On top of that there is an unknown reaction to reloading, some base wads have been known to blow out on second and third shots, this can cause a bore obstruction and with a repeating firearm you can blow out your barrel when you shoot that second round.
I do know what I am doing with reloading, metallic cartridges and shotgun reloading are entirely different animals.
This is like the guys that say "make sure you use low brass shells in your old gun". Low brass does not mean anything anymore, AA winchester trap loads are loaded hotter than most field hunting loads, even high brass loads.
I don't care what you do, but if you are having a discussion about what people should try then please document better what you are doing and suggest that they build up their own loads.