Off-Road Boat Trailer

[dean.f]

Pretty light:

Boat = 225 lbs
Motor = 90 lbs
Trolling motor = 35 lbs
Battery = 90 lbs
Fuel Tank Full = 25 lbs
Miscellaneous = 100 lbs

So all told somewhere between 550 to 600 lbs trailer payload. Weight of trailer i don't remember off the top of my head but pretty light as trailer payload rating is 1500 lbs.

You should take a look at Cerka industries in milton, you can get a torsion axle that is the same as manufacturers use with a full length axle tube. It's still an independent suspension but much more rugged than a stub. I think they come in a lighter rating to suit your needs. You likely wouldn't have to modify your frame either to mount it.

[Species8472]

You should take a look at Cerka industries in milton, you can get a torsion axle that is the same as manufacturers use with a full length axle tube. It's still an independent suspension but much more rugged than a stub. I think they come in a lighter rating to suit your needs. You likely wouldn't have to modify your frame either to mount it.

Googled them. I work down that way regularly. I think i will stop in there next time i am in that area. Their web site looks pretty good.

[Snowwalker]

Frame is not an issue and if necessary it is relatively simple to beef up. The pic you attached looks good but is pretty small and hard to really see any detail other than it has more clearance and a heavier axle/bearings/tires than my current trailer.

Yes wanted to be sure it uploaded..

Ok. So to start my trailer started life with :
3500lbs Single axle
Spindles 4 inch above axle tube.
Hubs were 5 stud with 10 inch electric brakes.
Leaf springs were spring under.

I switch to a Stright 5200lbs Single axle
Which moves the trailer up 4 inches.
I set the axle up to be spring over moving it up 2 to 2.5 inches plus the width of the springs of 1.5 to 2 inches.

Total lift 7.5 to 8.5 inches

The new hubs are 6 X 5.5 studs which matches the bolt pattern for my toyota.
Now my tacoma, the 4runner and the trailer can share wheel.
(Chevy has the same bolt pattern. )

The spindles have a grease fitting on the end under the hub cap, which makes it easy to grease.

The hubs have 12 inch electric brakes now...

To figure out your spring perch and pins placement measure the frame from the outside on the left to the outside on the right.
My pins are 1 inch from the outside edge of the frame on two inch tube.
For example if your frame is 72 inches wide with 2 inch tube the pins are 70 inches center to center, and your spring perches are 72 inches outside edge to outside edge..

Is that the kind of info you want?

[Species8472]

Yes wanted to be sure it uploaded..

Ok. So to start my trailer started life with :
3500lbs Single axle
Spindles 4 inch above axle tube.
Hubs were 5 stud with 10 inch electric brakes.
Leaf springs were spring under.

I switch to a Stright 5200lbs Single axle
Which moves the trailer up 4 inches.
I set the axle up to be spring over moving it up 2 to 2.5 inches plus the width of the springs of 1.5 to 2 inches.

Total lift 7.5 to 8.5 inches

The new hubs are 6 X 5.5 studs which matches the bolt pattern for my toyota.
Now my tacoma, the 4runner and the trailer can share wheel.
(Chevy has the same bolt pattern. )

The spindles have a grease fitting on the end under the hub cap, which makes it easy to grease.

The hubs have 12 inch electric brakes now...

To figure out your spring perch and pins placement measure the frame from the outside on the left to the outside on the right.
My pins are 1 inch from the outside edge of the frame on two inch tube.
For example if your frame is 72 inches wide with 2 inch tube the pins are 70 inches center to center, and your spring perches are 72 inches outside edge to outside edge..

Is that the kind of info you want?

Yes. Thanks. Good plan with tires being matched between trailer and truck. Your trailer is likely overkill for the loads associated with my boat but if I can figure out a way to make the trailer work for more than just the boat by having the boat supports removable with a deck below than it would be worth it.

[Snowwalker]

Yes. Thanks. Good plan with tires being matched between trailer and truck. Your trailer is likely overkill for the loads associated with my boat but if I can figure out a way to make the trailer work for more than just the boat by having the boat supports removable with a deck below than it would be worth it.

Ok... The 48% increase in axle capacity was not to carry more weight. The idea is the axle can stand up to more abuse.

As for tires, you need to use an LT tire with a good side wall so you can lower the pressure and not damage them. I don't know if you lower tire pressures for you type of offroad trips or not.

You are going to need to add shocks to dampen the bumps, potholes and corrugated road surface..

[Species8472]

As for tires, you need to use an LT tire with a good side wall so you can lower the pressure and not damage them. I don't know if you lower tire pressures for you type of offroad trips or not.

Usually drop the pressure by 15 to 20 psi or so once i leave the pavement and than reinflate once back on the pavement when using the truck. Narrow trails where the truck can't make it I have an 8 ton float trailer that fits the ATV and the boat trailer. 8 ton gets parked at trail head and I unload the ATV and boat trailer and haul the boat with the ATV.

[Snowwalker]

Usually drop the pressure by 15 to 20 psi or so once i leave the pavement and than reinflate once back on the pavement when using the truck. Narrow trails where the truck can't make it I have an 8 ton float trailer that fits the ATV and the boat trailer. 8 ton gets parked at trail head and I unload the ATV and boat trailer and haul the boat with the ATV.

Yes you did say you were wrecking tires and rims.. Trailer tires don't like to be under inflated, and it only gets harder on them the smaller they are.

Have you got any good Trailer parts supply shop up your way ? The one I use in london has been great to work with. They help me iron out a few bugs in my build as well.

[Species8472]

Yes you did say you were wrecking tires and rims.. Trailer tires don't like to be under inflated, and it only gets harder on them the smaller they are.

Have you got any good Trailer parts supply shop up your way ? The one I use in london has been great to work with. They help me iron out a few bugs in my build as well.

Closest is an hour. That's why I was thinking of hitting Cerkas in Milton next time I am in that area for work.

[Snowwalker]

Closest is an hour. That's why I was thinking of hitting Cerkas in Milton next time I am in that area for work.

Ok. Don't forget you have to leave room between the back of the tire and frame/fenders and stuff. This I think is one of the harder guesstmations you'll have to do. If you using rims with the same bolt patten you can just bolt them on and add a few inches to the new axle to get clearance.

Do you plan to use the same rims and tire size as your truck?

[Species8472]

Do you plan to use the same rims and tire size as your truck?

Probably not an option really. Truck is a SRW 1-ton diesel (to pull the 8 ton float with mini-ex) so tires are 8 bolt (8 x 180 mm, not 8 x 6.5 inch like most 8 bolt trailer wheels), 10 ply, load range E and i typically run Duratracs (285 65R18). Not your typical off-road truck but it is lifted 2 inches and with the singles on the back plus front and rear diff lockers it does pretty decent. Only thing it does not like is deep mud - bad scene - too heavy. Has enough clearance and with tires deflated to 35-40 psi it handles everything else.