Jiffy Auger Mechanic

[Kushog Lake]

I had put new gas in it with no ethanol and it runs better now. Also put Amsoil fuel stabalizer in the gas as well. I did notice that what looks like black oil coming out by under the exhaust.

Thank you for the suggestions.

[Gregger17]

I had put new gas in it with no ethanol and it runs better now. Also put Amsoil fuel stabalizer in the gas as well. I did notice that what looks like black oil coming out by under the exhaust.

Thank you for the suggestions.

You can pull exhaust and spark arrester screen. Clean and some compressed air..normal maintenance.


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[Fenelon]

Here's what I was told by the fancy mechanic reps (Honda, Yamaha, Mercury, Stihl, Husky) when my former job involved maintaining a fleet of outboards, skidoos, power augers, chainsaws, etc;

- nothing wrong with using regular gas in saws and augers as long as you are a frequent user and you use up the mixed gas. The problem with the E10 gas is when it sits in storage. You get what's called phase separation and the fuel dissociates (water and alcohol) with time. Oxygen makes it happen faster, so a gas tank that's half full will dissociate faster than a full tank due to the air space in the tank. You get water created in the process. They all agreed that E10 gas is not reliable to store, even if it has been treated with gas stabilizer. They said anything more than 2 months - get rid of the fuel and get fresh gas. If you have access to ethanol free premium, using it will rid you of the phase separation problems and will be ok for storage up to 9 months if treated. Carb tolerances are so tight now with emission standards that old dissociated ethanol gas will quickly foul a carb on something like a ice drill or a chainsaw - potentially harden the rubber components in the carb (mesh screens, gaskets). Water component can cause internal rusting and detonation in the cylinder, resulting in scoring.
What I do - I only run premium gas through my saws and augers. I run 40:1 instead of 50:1 using premium manufacturer's oil (eg. Stihl premium). Only buy gas in small volumes so it gets used up. Tag your gerry cans with the date. End of season or if saws will sit for months - leave full tank of premium with stabilizer in it. Run the motor for 3 mins to get stored fuel into carb. Kill it then add a squirt of oil to the cylinder and dry pull it. Really important to do this if storage will be outside in a building without heat that "sweats"..

Ditto with the outboards, but I also have 10 micron water separator filters installed between the fuel tank and the engine. I replace the filter each spring before using the motors again. Both the Yammy and Honda dudes said this is esp. important if you use ethanol fuel exclusively.
Works well for me. I've never had a problem.

[Gregger17]

^^^^^..Exactly!!! Well said Fenlon!!


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[73hunter]

Things sure get complicated when we try to be green. Wish we could just get ethanol free gas in regular (I realize we can get it with Shell Nitro)

[Fenelon]

Sometimes it can be hard to find ethanol free gas. I find that Shell stations usually have it. What scares me is the talk about going to E15 here in Canada. If that happens, I can see more people using the premixed bottled gas that costs a fortune.

[Kushog Lake]

Thank you for all the suggestions. Greatly appreciated!

[warpipe]

I have an older model 30 that was lacking power, wouldn't idle etc. Removed the bottom plate off the carburetor and of course the dreaded green sludge. I sprayed it all down with carb cleaner and got a kit with a new diaphragm and gasket tecumseh # 630978, $7.25. Just pay very careful attention to the position of the spring that attaches to the carb before you remove it. I had a hell of a time getting it back to it's original position. If that fails take it to the small engine mechanic and tell him you already started the project and did the hard stuff for him!!!