Logsplitter hydraulic issue

[longpointer]

Hi folks !

I have a Forest King 28 Ton logsplitter and the actuator is stuck in reverse. Normally it holds itself in reverse and at a certain pressure point after retracting the ram it would pop back into neutral. It started off by sticking once in awhile and I would have to give it (the handle) a slap to go back into neutral and now it is really stuck ! Engine appears to be engaged to pump making it hard to pull start. Hydraulic fluid (AW32) looks good and at proper level. I removed the cap that covers the adjuster nut and sprayed some lithium grease on it. There is some play in it but it will not shift back into neutral.

Short of buying a new actuator from Princess Auto is there another easier fix to this problem ? I'm assuming I'm not the first to have this happen.

[dean.f]

Was there any sign of rust and moisture in the detent assembly? Not sure about your particular model, but that's a common problem with a lot of spool valves. Also it's likely dead headed at full pressure making it hard to pull back to neutral.

[finsfurfeathers]

Have you tried u-tube help?

[Bushmoose]

I have a Wallenstein WX540L. The control valve is made by Brand Hydraulics. I had the very same issue last year with it. Basically, short of buying a new unit, you`ll have to disassemble the detent valve, clean it up, grease,lube it well and re-install.
When taking it apart, be sure to account for ball bearings and spring. It was a bugger to put it back together, but I got lucky. My wife is not afraid to get her hands dirty and it took that extra set of hands to assist holding 3 ball bearings in place with the spring tension trying it`s best to send them flying across the garage floor.
Take your time, it can be done.

[longpointer]

Was there any sign of rust and moisture in the detent assembly? Not sure about your particular model, but that's a common problem with a lot of spool valves. Also it's likely dead headed at full pressure making it hard to pull back to neutral.

Yes and Yes !
I cleaned it once already and put lithium grease on it back when it was just sticking a bit but now it's "dead headed" as you say and will not budge.

[longpointer]

I have a Wallenstein WX540L. The control valve is made by Brand Hydraulics. I had the very same issue last year with it. Basically, short of buying a new unit, you`ll have to disassemble the detent valve, clean it up, grease,lube it well and re-install.
When taking it apart, be sure to account for ball bearings and spring. It was a bugger to put it back together, but I got lucky. My wife is not afraid to get her hands dirty and it took that extra set of hands to assist holding 3 ball bearings in place with the spring tension trying it`s best to send them flying across the garage floor.
Take your time, it can be done.

Yes , I've seen something about that on You Tube... looks scary ! Do you have to bleed off the pressure and how ? I have a new hydraulic oil filter to install also and will change hydraulic fluid while I'm at it as it is original and about 4 years old. Engine oil gets changed every year.

[Bushmoose]

Yes , I've seen something about that on You Tube... looks scary ! Do you have to bleed off the pressure and how ? I have a new hydraulic oil filter to install also and will change hydraulic fluid while I'm at it as it is original and about 4 years old. Engine oil gets changed every year.

I believe there should be no back pressure if the pump is not running? Like you plan, I also changed the fluid, but can't remember if it was before or after tackling the detent?
I had contacted a local hydraulic company about getting a new unit. They advised me that the part was under license from manufacturer and they couldn't get it so I would have had to order direct from the manufacturer. Being stubborn, I decided I had nothing to lose by trying to repair it myself.
Once it was apart, it became quite obvious why it stopped working. Full of wet rusty crud! I soaked everything in varsol, cleaned it all up and hoped for the best. It's still working, but I now know to lube it regularly, which I didn't know prior, as there was nothing in the manual about it? Good Luck!

[dean.f]

If there's pressure to the valve you won't be able to pull the engine over.

Although not recommended, you can crack a line a few turns and wiggle the hose to relieve pressure, just watch your face and don't put your hand directly over the fitting. It's relatively low pressure system as far as hydraulics go.

[longpointer]

BullMoose ; Thanks ! Looks like my plan of attack. I had it covered with a tarp but will have to rethink a better way to store it outside.

Dean. F ; Thanks ! It appears that motor is turning the pump when I pull on cord (hard to pull ) so bleeding it somewhere seems like a good idea. I will lay down cardboard and old comforters to soak up any spillage.

[Fenelon]

Ditto to Bullmoose. My Surge Master did the same thing. Lightly tapping the valve with a hammer fixed it for a year then it did it again. Took the valve apart and it was a fouled detent with light corrosion. Used 0000 steel wool and greased the piss out of it. Hasn't been a problem for the past four years. I wonder if storing it in an aluminum shed caused the problem due to the constant "sweat" condensation you get in steel sheds. Now it's in my barn.