Help With Training a Shelter Dog

[trky chsr]

My wife and I recently acquired a Golden Retriever that came from a puppy mill. She's had some training as she sits, lays and comes to her name in the house. She will be 2 in March. We live in the country and walk on a neighbours farm. I've taken her to a dog park by herself and as expected she has selective hearing, she'll come sometimes but when distracted she doesn't know I exist. All of our other dogs ( Springers and Labs from pups) were well trained and we could walk them off leash no problem. Any advice on how to train her for recall? I know lot's of owners who use e-collars but I don't have experience with them and I'm a little leery. By the way she has a great hunting drive and I think she could be a good pheasant dog. TC

[Marker]

My back ground is detection work, not hunting dogs, so others on this forum may have a better solution for what you are trying to do.

My suggestion is to figure out what reward system the dog likes and only use it for training, floppy eared dogs usually like food and pointy eared dogs usually like toys. Its one or the other, when you figure that out take the dog, with the reward, in area with no distractions (ie no other dogs, squirrels etc) and show the dog the reward while slowly backing away. Do this 3-4 times per session, as the dog focuses more on you then start to add distractions one at a time, and start to increase the distance between you and the dog eventually to the point where you go out of sight and the dog has to come find you for the reward.

Only use this one reward durring training, at no other time does the dog get this 'special' reward. 10 minutes a day is better then one hour on a weekend. It may take a few months but keep at it.

This is refered to as 'positive' training as the dog gets something it wants, a shock e-collar is 'negative training' as the dog gets something it does not want. In my experience you will get a better balanced dog using positive training.

Dogs that show more independence (as yours does) make better working dogs, its a trait we look for in puppy selection as we want the dogs to do their job and not rely on the handler's input. it sounds like you have a good base to start with, good luck with your dog.

[BDH]

My back ground is detection work, not hunting dogs, so others on this forum may have a better solution for what you are trying to do.

My suggestion is to figure out what reward system the dog likes and only use it for training, floppy eared dogs usually like food and pointy eared dogs usually like toys. Its one or the other, when you figure that out take the dog, with the reward, in area with no distractions (ie no other dogs, squirrels etc) and show the dog the reward while slowly backing away. Do this 3-4 times per session, as the dog focuses more on you then start to add distractions one at a time, and start to increase the distance between you and the dog eventually to the point where you go out of sight and the dog has to come find you for the reward.

Only use this one reward durring training, at no other time does the dog get this 'special' reward. 10 minutes a day is better then one hour on a weekend. It may take a few months but keep at it.

This is refered to as 'positive' training as the dog gets something it wants, a shock e-collar is 'negative training' as the dog gets something it does not want. In my experience you will get a better balanced dog using positive training.

Dogs that show more independence (as yours does) make better working dogs, its a trait we look for in puppy selection as we want the dogs to do their job and not rely on the handler's input. it sounds like you have a good base to start with, good luck with your dog.

Excellent response

[bellerivercrossbowhunter]

I'm not an expert trainer but did attend excellent train the trainer sessions at K9 21st century in Amherstburg Ont with my 2 labs.

The basis of recall training was to use a long line and use the command "HERE". Then pull the dog to you and give it a high level of over the top praise. Keep doing this several times per day. Start with the dog a few feet away and gradually build the distance. The idea here is to make the dog believe there is nothing more important than you. Nothing else matters but you. The trainer highly discouraged training with treats or toys. The reason for this is if you find yourself in an emergency situation like a busy road and you need the dog to recall you may not have treats with you. If the dog doesn't see a treat it will ignore you.

You may want to sign up for basic obedience in a high distraction situation with other dogs and people. This teaches the dog steadiness.

My current Chocolate lab has excellent recall skills. I run her off leash daily and when I need to call her back, she almost knocks me over when she comes back to me... lol

[Bo D]

Over the years I’ve found working with a check cord works well, be it working dogs or house pets. I normally start off in the house using the word come or here. Then moving outdoors increasing the distance. Once you say come gently pull him in to you. Then praise him for coming. The same scenario is done outdoors… Best of luck with your golden. They make a great companion and hunting partner…

[trky chsr]

Thanks for the replies. I've used these techniques on my pups over the years and they work well. I guess I'll have to see how they work on an adult. TC

[overtheir]

First congrats on getting a older dog , you must remember that it is older and probably or most likely never had any formal training at a early age ,the advice that was given is solid but you just need more time with a older dog to mold it to the way you like , You never had the chance from a puppy