Downrigging Question

[MarkD]

I’m not quite a novice in downrigging , trolling for salmon for several years now, but I have to ask a very basic question.
Suppose, I have 30 ft from the ball/clip to the lure and the ball is 100 ft down. Then I have a cheater line. So the line from the rod to the clip forms a bow shape or rather two sides of a triangle.
My question is how much total line do you release in this case?
I normally define it by the tension of the and it seemed to be ok before. But the last several outings I got pop-ups only, never felt the fish on the line and now starting to think that it may be due to the more than necessary line out (big bow on the cheater) so fish can get off the hook before I am able to set the hook.
Would like to hear experts' opinions. Thanks!

[finsfurfeathers]

don't use sliders any more since the fleas showed up but when I did lines were set with zero extra line. Even with the tightest set there is always be a point where the slider will set on the way down. To set the slider at a specific depth used a snap that had an embedded rubber core the was the snubber. When a fish hits the slider it pops the line off the snubber than slides down like a free slider. In short slack means a lost fish so keeping things tight is the key.

[MarkD]

Thanks!
The problem with the setup you suggested is that I troll on GB, not LO, and depths here are changing significantly and sometimes very quickly. So I like to be able to change the depth for the downrigger back and forward without any other changes, assuming the slider is approximately in the middle anyway.
For sliders I usually use floating lure so unlikely they go much down even if/when I slow down on turns etc.
But I will try your suggestion anyway.
Thanks a lot.

[Marker]

If I am reading your post right, I suggest you set the lure/flasher about 4-6ft back from the ball, and put the line more forward in the release clip, the downside is the shakers may not release the line from the clip. The cheaters work, I have used them when I don't have many lines out, don't run flashers on your cheaters only lures, I run the lures on a cheater line further out than of the DR, maybe 20' back from the clip, and guestimate letting the clip on the cheater down about half way to the ball.

In either case I think moving the line back in the clip will prevent knock-offs.

[finsfurfeathers]

Thanks!
The problem with the setup you suggested is that I troll on GB, not LO, and depths here are changing significantly and sometimes very quickly. So I like to be able to change the depth for the downrigger back and forward without any other changes, assuming the slider is approximately in the middle anyway.
For sliders I usually use floating lure so unlikely they go much down even if/when I slow down on turns etc.
But I will try your suggestion anyway.
Thanks a lot.

sounds like you need the fixed slider option. got my clips from Angling specialties but I think Tom is long gone now. Making your own shouldn't be to hard. Nice thing abought them if you set it 10 ft above your main it stays 10 ft above your main regardless of any further depth adjustment you make.

[MarkD]

There used to be small clips with pin (I don’t see them anymore). I have a couple in my tackle box. I first found out about it from here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSr8njCJ33I&t=7s
I guess that’s what you mean here.
I think I’ll start to use them for that purpose but still my question remains the same. How my line from the fishing rod to the downrigger clip do you have out compared to the length of downrigger cable?
Hope my drawing is understandable.
Thanks!20240816_152744.jpg

[glen]

I gave up on the sliders and went fixed clip to Downrigger cable for my stacker.

I tighten the reel down as much as I can without popping the release. Maybe ten ft more line then cable out.

[MarkD]

Yes, this is what I’m now starting to think about. I leave quite a bit of line usually (sometimes 50 ft or more), put the line in the clip as much back as possible and it’s not very easy to pop up my release.
The main reason for that is that I have a very light boat and even small winds and waves change my speed significantly and so the tension of the line in the release. Also I usually go by myself in the boat and driving the boat and setting up the downrigger is very often problematic especially if going up wind.
I am usually able to detect even small shakers if it is salmon or trout, but for walleye it is problematic, yes.

[finsfurfeathers]

There used to be small clips with pin (I don’t see them anymore). I have a couple in my tackle box. I first found out about it from here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSr8njCJ33I&t=7s
I guess that’s what you mean here.
I think I’ll start to use them for that purpose but still my question remains the same. How my line from the fishing rod to the downrigger clip do you have out compared to the length of downrigger cable?
Hope my drawing is understandable.
Thanks!20240816_152744.jpg

What I have is like a large snap swivel with a rubber block on one arm. When set its clipped to the main line wedge between the wire and rubber. when a fish hits its drawn back and than free to slide down the line. The problem is the bigger the arc the less tension you have when a fish hits. If your hooks aren't sticky sharp or the hit is light you don't get a good hook set also the extra line is more slack to bring in before things tighten up. that's why its important to have the rod tensioned up so on the hit the vertical line is a taunt as possible to set the hook and when the rod is popped the lift brings in the remaining slack as soon as possible. That's why I went to a fixed slider as the line set in the rubber snugger provides the resistance to set the hook before it slides free.

[Fisherman]

One more item not considered is the amount of "blow back" from the rigger ball has on where the cheater line settles. The further the blow back, the lower the cheater line goes before it stops in the arc of the main line. To keep the cheater exactly X amount of feet above the ball, I use a simple snap swivel with a piece of rubber tube over one side of the snap, when it's closed on the main line it will stay there until you get a hit on it. If you do get a hit on the cheater it will pull back and there's enough room at the bend in the swivel to slide down the main line.