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Thread: Starting out

  1. #1
    Leads by example

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    Default Starting out

    I realize this may be a broad question but here goes anyway . For a fellow just starting out what essential equipment would you recommend ? I think that I would like to start off with land animals first until I gain some knowledge and confidence . Also, how much work space do you require for hanging/skinning/fleshing and so on ? Lastly, where would the best place for me to buy my equipment ? Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
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    depending on what you would like to trap. things you need will varry, if your after coons , i use alot of 160 conabears in dog proff box sets and if you after fox u will need foot holds or foot snare . as for muskrats i use alot of sub traps and foot holds and for fleshing u need a good beam and fleshing knife and u need some where to dry the fur when done fleshing it and once put on boards to be streached

  4. #3
    Just starting out

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    Chevy,
    I just finished my first year trapping. I bought 12 220 conibears for coon and used them all. I bought 12 #3 footholds for coyote and set 2 once. I picked up 3 330 conibears for beaver and used them. I picked up 3 120 conibears for other and used them for Muskrat. Used traps are hard to find and it is expensive to buy new traps and have them shipped!! I never bought traps till middle Nov. and thus after dying got a late start to seasons (middle Dec). Waited till I went Moose hunting and bought traps at North Bay. It took longer to dye and prepare traps than I thought.
    As for space a very understanding wife is a huge benefit thus when weather is cold I was in basement otherwise garage. A shed or garage with heat source would be perfect to skin, flesh, dry pelts and store equipment but for me that is down the road. That is what I figured out this past year and I'm sure next season will be a learning process as well.

  5. #4
    Leads by example

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    I've got room in the garage but no heat. Not sure if the "warden" would let me in the house with some critters to skin. LOL.
    I mainly want to start out with coyote, fox and coon. After some success I'll expand my repituare. I guess I'll begin by
    searching for supplies now so I can compare prices. I've learned alot already this week. The internet is a wonderful thing.
    Huey...how did you make out in your first season ?
    Thanks.

  6. #5
    Getting the hang of it

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    Chevy,

    Put up equipment is just as important or even more so than the traps themselves. If you can't put up the furbearers you trap properly b/c you don't have the equipment, they won't be marketable or will bring you less money. As the saying goes "you can't turn a $15 pelt into a $50 dollar pelt, but you can make a $50 pelt into a $15 pelt". Every trapper should strive to present their fur they harvested in the best possible manner. We owe it to them! Some basic tools you will need for put up include;

    • A fleshing beam
    • a good draw knife
    • a pelter knife (I use the zeph pelter)
    • a skinning knife (I use the zeph northener)
    • a tail stripper (not necessary, but handy)
    • a tail guide (not necessary, but handy)
    • a gambrel
    • pelt boards for the species you plan on trapping (if you make your own I would suggest buying one and using it as a template for the rest. Get one for every species you plan on trapping)
    • push pins
    • A knife sharpening kit of some sort. Lansky works good maybe others will chime in with what they use. A quality steel is good for quick touch ups but will not repair real dull blades.
    You will learn what you need as you gain experience. Having more knives on hand is great. I use a paint scraper with the corners rounded off as a scraper when finishing up boarded beaver. Dog choker collars can be used as a gambrel to hang your animal while pelting it. An old hand towel will help you grip the greasy hide better so you can pull the pelt harder. Ect..................Lots of tricks.

    As for traps I would start off with the easier furbearers. You don't want to get discouaged by a wylie coyote and get turned off trapping in your first year. Muskrats, beaver and raccoon where you are. For the rats 110 or 120 conibears or small footholds set as submersion sets are best. For raccoon I would use 160's as previously mentioned or you can step up to 220's if you wish. The 220's can be used later for otter and fisher, while the 160 may not be approved for otter later. For beaver you will want to use the 330 conibears. You can use footholds in submersion sets but this takes more practice/skill and may disappoint you in the end. Coni's are easy to use. What every traps you buy make sure they are on the "approved trap list" under the AIHTS (see sticky). Pick traps that will be legal to use on as many species as possible. More bang for your buck. I use Belisle traps for the most part for coni's 160 and larger. Any 110 or 120 trap is legal for rats and mink under water. I find the Savengeau traps are overkill and damage some pelts which is never good.

    What ever you do, make all land sets dog proof. Trappers don't need anymore bad press!

    I hope this helps.

    Ridge.
    Born to hunt and trap, forced to work!

  7. #6
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    That is great advise Ridgerunner. Like I said...I'll start off slow and work my way up. Did you register yourself as a small business to take advantage of tax breaks ? Thanks again....Man I have lots of work and planning ahead.

  8. #7
    LakeLady
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    Default Good job

    Quote Originally Posted by Ridgerunner View Post
    Chevy,

    Put up equipment is just as important or even more so than the traps themselves. If you can't put up the furbearers you trap properly b/c you don't have the equipment, they won't be marketable or will bring you less money. As the saying goes "you can't turn a $15 pelt into a $50 dollar pelt, but you can make a $50 pelt into a $15 pelt". Every trapper should strive to present their fur they harvested in the best possible manner. We owe it to them! Some basic tools you will need for put up include;

    • A fleshing beam
    • a good draw knife
    • a pelter knife (I use the zeph pelter)
    • a skinning knife (I use the zeph northener)
    • a tail stripper (not necessary, but handy)
    • a tail guide (not necessary, but handy)
    • a gambrel
    • pelt boards for the species you plan on trapping (if you make your own I would suggest buying one and using it as a template for the rest. Get one for every species you plan on trapping)
    • push pins
    • A knife sharpening kit of some sort. Lansky works good maybe others will chime in with what they use. A quality steel is good for quick touch ups but will not repair real dull blades.

    You will learn what you need as you gain experience. Having more knives on hand is great. I use a paint scraper with the corners rounded off as a scraper when finishing up boarded beaver. Dog choker collars can be used as a gambrel to hang your animal while pelting it. An old hand towel will help you grip the greasy hide better so you can pull the pelt harder. Ect..................Lots of tricks.

    As for traps I would start off with the easier furbearers. You don't want to get discouaged by a wylie coyote and get turned off trapping in your first year. Muskrats, beaver and raccoon where you are. For the rats 110 or 120 conibears or small footholds set as submersion sets are best. For raccoon I would use 160's as previously mentioned or you can step up to 220's if you wish. The 220's can be used later for otter and fisher, while the 160 may not be approved for otter later. For beaver you will want to use the 330 conibears. You can use footholds in submersion sets but this takes more practice/skill and may disappoint you in the end. Coni's are easy to use. What every traps you buy make sure they are on the "approved trap list" under the AIHTS (see sticky). Pick traps that will be legal to use on as many species as possible. More bang for your buck. I use Belisle traps for the most part for coni's 160 and larger. Any 110 or 120 trap is legal for rats and mink under water. I find the Savengeau traps are overkill and damage some pelts which is never good.

    What ever you do, make all land sets dog proof. Trappers don't need anymore bad press!

    I hope this helps.

    Ridge.
    Gotta say, this is a great post Ridge. Lots of good information.

    The lansky sharpening kit is a good choice; keeps it simple and lets you get the job done.
    Zepf knives have been around a long time, and you really can't go wrong with one or two or five

  9. #8
    Just starting out

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    Chevy,
    Never set coon traps till middle of Dec., set them on well worn paths and had 5 first night and 3 second night. Temp went way down and everything froze and activity died off ... none in next 3 nights. I got a call about a nuisance beaver and got him as well as a couple Muskrats. Set a couple of coyote footholds but I did not prepare them properly and got nothing. Had alot of fun getting out and looking for potential areas to set traps. I chalk this year up to a good learning experience and hope to improve next season.

  10. #9
    Leads by example

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    That is awesome Huey. I can only dream to have a start like that.

  11. #10
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    Talked to a fellow today about the trapping course. He may have enough guys to do a spring class. I'd sooner take it now and have myself some what prepared for the fall trapping season.

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