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March 22nd, 2014, 10:34 AM
#11
I've used my homemade ice transducer set-up in borrowed aluminum boats. I just C-clamp it to the transom.

It worked very well, even on my uncle's fibreglass ski boat that I used once.
Make sure you have finished speaking before your audience has finished listening.
Dorothy Sarnoff
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March 22nd, 2014 10:34 AM
# ADS
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March 25th, 2014, 10:09 PM
#12
I usually use some 4200, 4000 or sikaflex. Or better yet, don't drill holes below the waterline.
I had a customer recently show me a product that you can buy online (sorry, I don't know the name) that is essentially a piece of starboard packaged with some glue sold specifically for this job.
I "invented" a method using a pipe, a bimini top hinge and some clips for my boat. When the transducer hits something like a beaver dam or deadhead, the pipe pops free of the clips and swings from the hinge. At the end of the season, I just undo the hinge screw and remove the whole thing since I've seen how many transducers get ruined by rodents every year. Also, then I have the xducer for ice/canoe fishing. 2 screw holes, both above the waterline.
Also, Trex is an inexpensive substitute for starboard.
Only pic I have of the back of the boat with the transducer installed:
Last edited by Dead Ringer; March 25th, 2014 at 10:48 PM.
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March 26th, 2014, 04:09 PM
#13

Originally Posted by
Dead Ringer
I usually use some 4200, 4000 or sikaflex. Or better yet, don't drill holes below the waterline.
I had a customer recently show me a product that you can buy online (sorry, I don't know the name) that is essentially a piece of starboard packaged with some glue sold specifically for this job.
I "invented" a method using a pipe, a bimini top hinge and some clips for my boat. When the transducer hits something like a beaver dam or deadhead, the pipe pops free of the clips and swings from the hinge. At the end of the season, I just undo the hinge screw and remove the whole thing since I've seen how many transducers get ruined by rodents every year. Also, then I have the xducer for ice/canoe fishing. 2 screw holes, both above the waterline.
Also, Trex is an inexpensive substitute for starboard.
Only pic I have of the back of the boat with the transducer installed:

What type of clips to you use to hold it in place?
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March 26th, 2014, 04:15 PM
#14
http://www.westmarine.com/beckson-ma...05_158_003_007
But I expect to hit the xducer frequently due to the way I operate my boat. I seems to hold ok at speed (15mph), but sometimes does pop out. Then I just reach back and clip it in again. If you don't hit stuff often, then you could use something sturdier, like a hose clamp or HD cable tie.
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April 4th, 2014, 08:58 AM
#15

Originally Posted by
Surf and Turf
You might want to consider installing a "starboard" plate, use bolts not screws, generous with sealant at holes, the back of starboard and then seal around the edges. Once this is installed you can screw your transducer to the board. This will allow you to move or change transducers down the road without having to put new holes in your hull
^Exactly. I used a 3/4" pc. of Polyethylene, stainless steel screws from the inside-out, and plenty of marine sealant. Having crushed a few transducers at crappy launches, this truly IS the best way to do it. I probably have a photo of mine somewhere. PM me with your email if you'd like to see it.
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April 30th, 2014, 08:01 AM
#16
I had been interested in this thread, hoping to find something to attach the transducer plate to the back of the aluminum boat without drilling any holes. I found it.
I found an epoxy from West System, http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
I was able to epoxy the plate to the back of the transom, and it is not coming off without a grinder.
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April 30th, 2014, 09:16 AM
#17

Originally Posted by
marcus
I had been interested in this thread, hoping to find something to attach the transducer plate to the back of the aluminum boat without drilling any holes. I found it.
I found an epoxy from West System,
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
I was able to epoxy the plate to the back of the transom, and it is not coming off without a grinder.
I wonder if that's all that the Transom Savers are, a chunk of starboard and some G-Flex. If so, it would be a couple bucks cheaper to get the pieces separately and you'd still have some epoxy left for other little jobs.
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April 30th, 2014, 11:46 AM
#18
Has too much time on their hands
use a plate , stainless screws a good silicine...a buddy used a cutting board from the buck store cut down for a plate
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June 11th, 2014, 06:49 PM
#19
Provided you do it correctly the first time and don't have to drill a million holes there is no issues using screws. A little bit of sealant and you won't have a single drop of water come in the boat.
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June 15th, 2014, 06:16 AM
#20
Steel and aluminium plus water results in galvanic action on the ALUMINIUM. While normal steel/plated screws will rust, the aluminium dissolves! Either use aluminium rivets or epoxy.