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October 17th, 2014, 08:01 AM
#11
My one ol gal broke on her first retrieve every year till I retired her at 13 . I would just tie her to something solid and she would bounce out and get checked . The rest of the season she would be rock solid .
TD
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October 17th, 2014 08:01 AM
# ADS
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October 17th, 2014, 08:29 AM
#12

Originally Posted by
400bigbear
My one ol gal broke on her first retrieve every year till I retired her at 13 . I would just tie her to something solid and she would bounce out and get checked . The rest of the season she would be rock solid .
TD
I have tied dogs to me with an 18" lead and as mentioned only had to correct the once on the first shoot and thats what it takes....just some simple reinforcement and they catch on pretty quick
somedays your the pigeon
somedays your the statue
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October 17th, 2014, 12:50 PM
#13
Invite me out hunting with you and we can take turns working our dogs.deb
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October 17th, 2014, 01:07 PM
#14
Good to see a number of you have high standards when it comes to breaking and have some strategies that work for you....that's what is important.
Most comments distinguish between training and hunting. There are many dogs steady to shot in training but break on a regular basis when hunting. Be careful not to allow that to continue as it can be hard to overcome and dogs will take the punishment as long as they get the reward(the bird).
As I said previously, for those who are not absolutely steady then remind them just prior to shooting time....put them in 'training' mode.
What was not mentioned was creeping. That can be a totally different issue with dog not breaking but not remaining on sit either. It's wise in training to make this an absolute.....meaning accepting NO movement. For those who read/watch dvds, you'll see Bill Hillman steadying dogs at a very early age. This has nothing to do with retrieving and everything to do with obedience. You've heard it.....sit means sit!
Steady dogs usually mark the falls of birds more accurately.....important whether you hunt or compete. Dogs who are sitting can be helped by the handler in refining the line given for a retrieve, the creeper is pretty hard to help but I often see handlers using their hand positioned above the dogs rear end as he's sent.....guess the dog has another set of eyes there also.
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October 17th, 2014, 03:18 PM
#15

Originally Posted by
krakadawn
Part of the problem you face is that his misbehaviour has been allowed for some time according to his age. Can this be corrected...certainly. If you have ecollar conditioned him then you have a tool to correct the behaviour. If you have not ecollared....consider it.
On the other hand have a friend shoot and you stop and correct the dog when he breaks. Set him up to give you that opportunity and recall immediately if he goes early, do not allow any reward. Do not be Mister nice guy...he has to know he is in deep trouble should HE decide to go.
Usually doing backyard drills with bumpers does little to correct, you need to replicate hunting conditions with guns and birds.
You are wise to try and correct this . I see too many dogs in motion before guns have stopped. This is definitely a major safety issue for the dog. Some people condone this as we see this happen routinely on some of our 'hunting' shows. How do you deal with a cripple with your dog already moving? We clearly know that dogs in motion compromise their safety and certainly their accuracy in marking fallen birds.
Get a friend to help you and keep a standard.......remember......sit means sit.
Excellent advice as usual from Krakadawn. I'm no retriever trainer, but many principles of training are the same.
We need to use a friend to help more often , so we can concentrate on the dog.
" We are more than our gender, skin color, class, sexuality or age; we are unlimited potential, and can not be defined by one label." quote A. Bartlett
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October 17th, 2014, 06:40 PM
#16
Wow thanks for all the responses folks I truly appreciate every one of them sounds like I need to plan on not shooting until I can have him steady or if going out just the dog and I then leash him to me or the blind to be sure he doesn't break.
thanks again the willingness to help amongst dog people is just awsome
Chris
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October 18th, 2014, 04:22 AM
#17
I find it disturbing the constant reference of using E collars . That's not working a dog but rushing and forcing one . Retrievers have been guided missles doing what they do for a 100 years or more but this new fangled electronic has been around , how long ? 20 years maybe and closer to 10 . Yuo pros promote this crap constantly and constantly I have dogs sent to me whose drive etc has been destroyed and I have to deal with it . Yes in the right hands it can speed things up and correct things but in 90 % it is just plain f "in wrong . Words . a lead or even rocks in a beer can correct most . I'm picking up the pieces of you force e collar folks . Thanks .
TD
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October 18th, 2014, 05:58 AM
#18
Hi 400 BB
i agreed with you on a lot of what you have said that in the wrong hands or used improperly it can be a bad thing but for myself I consider it a very effective tool. The number one reason I use mine is for the safety of my dog. He is almost always with me comes to work with me or wherever I go. About 2-3 times a day I let him out of the truck to take care of business a quick game of fetch or just to check out the job site/stretch his legs. This is often close to a road that he is unfamiliar with and I fear that if he makes a run for the road weather it be for another dog or an other animal/bird a shock may be the only thing between him running out on the road or not. That being said he listens well without it and this has never happened but I just feel better/more in control when he has it on. I guess it offers piece of mind for me and also in a hunting situation when he is all fired up all it takes most times is a beep and I can make him sit right beside me or at 150 yards without yelling and scaring birds off. Like you mentioned though used improperly it can destroy the drive in a good dog a buddy of mine picked up a GSP that had been mistreated the owner had a ecollar and used it out of frustration and to often when he got the dog she trembled if she even saw the collar without the collar on she is the best pointer I have hunted over but with the collar won't leave his heels really to bad to see this so I can see your point but I'm still quite glad that I have the collar like I said for me it just offers piece of mind.
Chris
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October 18th, 2014, 06:51 AM
#19

Originally Posted by
400bigbear
I find it disturbing the constant reference of using E collars . That's not working a dog but rushing and forcing one . Retrievers have been guided missles doing what they do for a 100 years or more but this new fangled electronic has been around , how long ? 20 years maybe and closer to 10 . Yuo pros promote this crap constantly and constantly I have dogs sent to me whose drive etc has been destroyed and I have to deal with it . Yes in the right hands it can speed things up and correct things but in 90 % it is just plain f "in wrong . Words . a lead or even rocks in a beer can correct most . I'm picking up the pieces of you force e collar folks . Thanks .
TD
No on ever said forcing, it's called reinforcing. Teach first then correct behaviour the way you would any time. An ecollar can and is a great tool.
Solid collar programs have been around for quite a bit more than 10 yrs...time slips by you know.
I'm not a Pro but I find it strange that people send dogs to you to correct? For what...especially if you're trying to link the ecollar to that argument. By the way 'we' are not the 'force e collar' folks as you say.
I have trained field champions without the collar, it can be done but modern day training programs and ecollars have taken dog training to a much higher level and assisted many people to do so. And as far as 'drive; go, my group of dogs are as hard a driving bunch that you can find.....so are literally most of today's competitive FT retrievers.
Rocks in beer cans are pretty ineffective at 200 yds...just like teaching a dog to slide down a shoreline without cheating etc.They may have their place but certainly not in training AA retrievers today. We haven't even talked about dog safety.
You are most welcome to be anti collar, not sure what level you train dogs at but don't damn the 'rest' who choose to avail ourselves to other training tools other than rocks in beer cans.
Big Bear....respectfully...if you believe current day collar programs force and rush a dog then you are badly informed about the valuable role they play in training, perhaps you need to spend some time with some good trainers...I'd welcome you anytime to join in