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Thread: Electrical question

  1. #11
    Getting the hang of it

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    I have a 15 hp. Johnson with electric start that I was fishing with for the last 2 weeks of the lake trout season. It has a 4 amp. alternator which keeps my battery charged to run my sonar, GPS, which are on all day, running lights at night, and many starts as I kill the outboard with every strike. The battery started at 12.53 volts and ended the 2 weeks at 13.35 volts. I used to have to charge the battery after about 5 days before adding the electric start and charging system. At 4 amps, for which you need about 2/3 throttle, it won't compensate for a trolling motor drain, but it sure is nice not to have to charge a battery in the bush.

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  3. #12
    Just starting out

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    My Legend came with both an on board plug in style charger and a dc charger the runs off the motor to charge the trolling batteries.
    The dc charger helps when running and gunning but doesn't come anywhere near charging a run down battery, (not enough output amps would be my guess). If I had to replace it, I'd just spend the bucks on bigger batteries with more reserve cap. and a better on board charger for shore power top ups
    I'd rather be fishing! Unless you want to go hunting!

  4. #13
    Just starting out

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    buy a battery isolator (its just a relay but it is designed for high current) hook it up to your ignition wire so when your running your motor it charges your other 2 batteries. it is better to hook it up this way then a switch because when you have you're key in the off position your battery that is used to start your motor does not get drained

    Cheers

  5. #14
    Getting the hang of it

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    Quote Originally Posted by cambam View Post
    How can I set up by boat so while running, the engine can also charge my 2 front batteries when needed. Tired of using the trickle charger at home. There must be something on the market that allows you to switch back-and-forth??
    Don't. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be deep cycled. Charging them off your engine will result in reduced battery life.

  6. #15
    Getting the hang of it

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    Great question Cambam. You never want to hard wire from your starting battery to your deep cycles this is a big nono. Your best bet is to purchase the DC charging unit available by Minn Kota. Here is a link: http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Batter...ator-Chargers/

    Keep in mind that this will just give you a top up when your main outboard is running. It sends a trickle charge not a full 6amp+ charge so it won’t harm your batteries. You can also purchase a 3 bank charger to tie everything together and when plugged in it will maintain and smart charge your batteries. I use group 27 series and it gives me a full day and a half of use on a 80lb. unit. I find going with group 31 series is a little too big and heavy. Hope this helps

    Cheers Henry

  7. #16
    Apprentice

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    Default Electrical question .

    The electric output of my 15 HP Suzuki (manual) is very marginal . Soooo , I'm utelizing five 2.5 W solar-panels to maintain the deep-cycle-battery . The 12.5 W (~1Amp.) total output (under ideal circumstances) is sufficient to run my GPS , Sonar and 2-way-radio . --- OK , I'll have to admit that the radio is very seldom used but the GPS and Sonar are on whenever I'm on the water . --- Originally I had mounted only 3 panels and discovered that it wasn't enough . Fortunately , Can. Tire had another sale and I picked up 2 more . At $9.95 ea. the price was tolerable . --- A controller is not needed because of the relatively low output . --- The panels are small enough to be installed where they don't get in the way . --- My Sonar (Garmin) constantly shows the available battery-voltage . There is no probability of over-charging the battery . --- If there would be I'd just cover the panels with a rag .

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