need stronger e-collar

[vom Dufenshmirtz]

My young dog cannot be stopped chasing game with e-c.
I use Dogtra 1900 at max level. The collar works and it fits snugly.
Zapped at 127 her neck twitches and she might shake her head.
I didn't arrive at 127 very quickly, trust me. My older dog never needed anything more than 40-50, much lower usually.
Anyone ever encounter a dog that has very high threshold like this?
Anyone around GTA with a powerful collar (Tritronics?) would be willing to get together so I can try in on her..?

[terrym]

Sounds like intermittent contact happening. Can't see not enough power being a problem. Do you have the longer prongs on? I max out my 2500 T&B at level 38. Maybe try it around her torso?

[bdog]

Try it on your self first and see if it is actually putting out what you think it is, and most times when people think its snug enough, go a couple more notches on the collar tighter, that collar should not move and have it high on the neck just behind the ears

[jobbershunting]

My female Griff will continue a chase even if 127 (Dogtra 2500 T&B) is applied, she will vocalize but she will not give up the chase. Some dogs just have a lot of desire. I know now that if she is that amped up, I have to wait until she dials down the intensity a bit before I can get her focused back on myself. However, my older male Griff will vocalize if I go beyond 23 on the transmitter. Same collar, drastically different amount of dog.

[Jakezilla]

I have encountered dogs with a high threshold like this. How old is she and what are you trying to get her to stop chasing?

[CocoZoo]

Sounds like the prongs are not making solid contact (or something is wrong with the unit).

I've had a Dogtra 2300 NCP for 5 years for my lab. No problems, but if the collar isn't tight enough, the prongs won't make solid contact. Especially if she's moving/running.

Corrections are about level 75 with her. Rarely needed now a days tho.

Does you collar have a 'constant' button and the 'nick' button? When I first collar trained my dog, she wouldn't recall or halt if on game (or other dogs playing....). I used the constant button at about lvl 120. Only had to do that a couple times. It's not pretty unfortunately. But, if your dog is chasing a crippled diver duck that leading it out to sea, or is heading toward a busy road after a bunny, you're glad you can get it to stop.

[vom Dufenshmirtz]

Thanks, Jobbers, very helpful.

Jakezilla, I also posted it on UJ

I will go back to the cc just to make sure.
The dog recalls 99% reliably with or w/o stimulation.
If she gives half chase to something I can stop it most of the time.
But once in a while that demon of fur crazed German dog gets on something really hard and there's no stopping her then.
Yesterday she ran away more than a mile running down something, mb a deer. I started punching the button pretty hard when she was 200-300 yards away, but nothing. She will grow out of it, I am sure, she's not even 8 mo, but there are roads and cars around here.
The first time she ran away couple month ago, she didn't have GPS on her and she was gone 40 minutes. Damn hound. I should have put e-c on her when she was 2 mo.

[amsley_smith]

I have a sportdog collar for my dog and it works amazing. I have many options on it, how strong of a shock, a beep, how long to shock for. It was very helpful with training my dog!

[Jakezilla]

I would first shorten her up, an 8mo old pup shouldn't be 2-300 yds away. Sometimes young dogs can get away on you and get to those distances but you need to get them back with you in short order. With young dogs the gps is a recovery device if she is 200 yds away and starts a chase, the moment for correction is gone by the time you see what is happening on the GPS. When I am working young dogs, if they start chasing off game that I don't want them to chase there are no half measures, they get the max. When you break them on off game, once they start chasing it's max on constant stimulation until they break off the chase or the collar times out adn they get it again if they are still chasing. Nothing gets said during this, let the collar do the talking, and act like nothing even happened. The dog should then associate the uncomfortable stimulation with whatever it was chasing and not you. They may come heel beside you for a bit and look unsure but do not say anything or do anything just keep walking and let them work themselves out of it. This may sound cruel to some but it will save your dogs life in the future when it doesn't take that deer for a ride across the blacktop and get smacked by a car.


There is a grey area when it comes to Turkeys. Some people don't like to do this if they are chasing turkeys because it is a bird and some don't think it makes a difference. Personally I think a dog should be smart enough to know the difference between a turkey and a grouse.


Sounds like you need to do some check cord work and get that dog to handle. The check cording will lay the foundation so that you can turn her with light stimulation on the neck and get her to go with you instead of self hunting.


The collar should be tight enough on her that you can just get 2 fingers under the collar on top of her neck and if you have long prongs put them on your collar so you know you are getting good contact.


If she is taking deer for a mile you are already in trouble and each time this happens it will get harder to break her of it.


On the plus side, if she has that kind of prey drive, you will have a good one if you can get that drive focused onto birds.

[terrym]

Itch ein UberMunsterlander, ya?