Sabot recommendations

After missing 2 deer last fall with a smoothbore (one w 20 Ga, one w 12 Ga.), I decided it was time to get something with a rifled barrel.
I found a nice little light weatherproof gun thats a perfect solution for me - a synthetic stocked 20 gauge Mossberg 500 with a raised cheek piece stock, a rifled barrel with a cantelever sight rail, and 2.5x scope, plus a second vent ribbed barrel with 3 choke tubes.
No sabot slugs were in stock where I bought it, but I have a bunch of rifled slugs on hand to start sighting it in.
what I am looking for is recommendations from members with a similar type 20 gauge as to what the most accurate sabot slugs are to use in this gun, and maybe what typical range it will be effective out to with those loads.

I have had good success with Hornady SST sabots. Lot's of folks highly recommend Remington Accu-Tips but apparently they are hard to come by.

What range are you planning to shoot at? If you missed 2 deer last year what were your ranges? There is nothing wrong with a smoothbore within its range, yes the rifled barrel will have a longer effective rang but don't expect magnum rifle range or accuracy.

Fox, I know all that, but your reply doesn’t answer my question!

Cabelas doesn’t have any sabots listed, but Sail lists 3 for 20 gauge:
1. Federal power shok
2. Federal premium vital shok
3. Winchester partition gold
Does anyone have any experience with any of these 3?

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Originally Posted by Fox

What range are you planning to shoot at? If you missed 2 deer last year what were your ranges? There is nothing wrong with a smoothbore within its range, yes the rifled barrel will have a longer effective rang but don't expect magnum rifle range or accuracy.

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Why would you say that? You don't need a magnum rifle for deer.
I have one and can vouch for its accuracy when I shoot the Remington accutips.

"The new Savage 20-gauge Model 220 F is a true bolt-action "slug rifle" that delivers minute-of-angle accuracy at 100 yards, effective range to 200 yards, and more power than either the .454 Casull handgun cartridge or the .45-70 Gov't. in a rifle. It is not just state-of-the-art, it advances the art. It gives slug gun hunters the firearm they have dreamed of for many years, and for most hunting situations in the eastern half of the nation, it makes a centerfire rifle unnecessary."

https://www.shootingtimes.com/editor...t_201007/99471

Hello Genec, I have the same setup, but in a woodstock and Nikon 1-4×24, it likes both Federal trophy copper and accutips ( 2in to 3in groups, 3 shots) out to 100yrds from a tripod, 2 and 3/4 in shells. I never took it for hunting.

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Originally Posted by genec

Fox, I know all that, but your reply doesn’t answer my question!

Cabelas doesn’t have any sabots listed, but Sail lists 3 for 20 gauge:
1. Federal power shok
2. Federal premium vital shok
3. Winchester partition gold
Does anyone have any experience with any of these 3?

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Haven't tried them in 20 but in 12 gauge the Federal Power Shok are cheap and accurate in most shotguns we've tried them in. We usually start with those in most rifled barrels because of the price and stay with them often enough. Most guys that try the Winchester Partition golds through pump shotguns in my group don't seem to get consistent groups with them.



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I can't speak for the sabot partition but the rifle ammo is a true winner. Sorry I wish I had more to offer but I have only used Hornady SST and have had no issues with accuracy or killing performance

Find out what the barrel twist is for a Mossberg 500 and compare it to the Savage 220.

You might not want the 1900+fps sabots for your gun. The Hornady SST, Rem Accu tip, Federal Barnes expander are all 1900+ and they are suited for the newest rifled barrel guns.

I know my Mossberg 12guage did not like fast sabots.

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You really need to test different brands of ammo. I had a bunch of Hornady and when we were siting in my Mossy I could not get any good groups I played with the scope over and over. The next day I went out and bought a box of Federal Blue, Federal Premium and Browning. I tried the Federal Blue first and dead on tried a second shot dead on, next I tried the Federal Premium and not quite as good as the Blue Box but close enough and the Browning was probably second best. So I tried the Horandy again and all over the map. This was the same for my son's gun as well. I would say buy 3 brands and find what yours likes.

Thanks everyone for your help.
I just found out that Sail slug ammo is in-store sale only, so thats out.
I will just have to start by scouting out the supply at a couple more local stores and see what they have in stock.

I haven’t used the 20 gauge, but I sighted my Win 1300 12 gauge cantilever slug barrel with accutip 2 3/4 about 11 years ago and bought a lifetime supply of them too. It’s quite accurate. Funny thing is shortly thereafter I moved to an area that second season is muzzleloader only so that’s what I’m shooting now. Anyway the accutips shoot excellent in my gun and are absolutely worth a try if you can get some. I know a lot of guys who have been very pleased. The partitions never shot worth a darn for me. Federal cheapies weren’t bad from what I recall.

I once had and sold a Win 1300 rifled barrel shotgun in 20 gage.No cantilever.
Still miss it-alas it was not used,so had to go.Savage 220 took over the job.

That gun shot 2 3/4 Win Partition Gold pretty darn good.The projectila was also an excellent design, much better then the original Partition.
Would not shoot well in Savage 220.

we go with acutips, last year couldnt find many so we went with remington expanders. lots of meat dmg tho.

horrady doesnt like my shotgun for some reason.

i might go this year with my smooth bore and rifled slugs. ive had enough of spending 100$ for 15-20 shells.
until i can buy sabots in bulk im sticking with my smooth bore.

My Mossberg 500 rifled 20 likes the 2 3/4" Hornady SSTs better than the Remington Accutips!

-N.

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Originally Posted by genec

Fox, I know all that, but your reply doesn’t answer my question!

Cabelas doesn’t have any sabots listed, but Sail lists 3 for 20 gauge:
1. Federal power shok
2. Federal premium vital shok
3. Winchester partition gold
Does anyone have any experience with any of these 3?

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I have had no experience with the 20ga slugs but my dad has used Hornady SSTs and Browning BXS slugs in his remington 870 with great results. I have had good luck with the Hornady SST in 12ga for accuracy.

The problem right now is getting any sabot slugs, or any ammo really.

I asked what your range was because there are a few other options that may help with getting you going for the upcoming season in a lock down year.

If you were not having much luck with the basic foster slugs then I have to ask, do you have sights on that barrel or just the bead? Williams makes a sight that clamps on to the vent rib of most popular shotguns and does a great job over the basic rib. Also, if the slugs just do not group well out to 75 yards then take a look at Challenger attached wad slugs, they are available in 12ga and 20ga, they have proven to be very accurate in smoothbore barrels with improved chokes but can be shot in full choke barrels. Federal also makes a Tru-Ball slug in 12ga, not sure if they make is in 20ga, but is an attached wad slug as well.

Depending on the local shops around there are also Brenneke slugs, they are attached wad.

Essentially since we are competing with the US market we are SOL on anything that is in trend right now, off brand, odd and non-popular ammunition is what we have to make do with because it is all we can find.

I used to use the Winchester Rack Master slug when hunting in the shotgun only hunt, was accurate as heck in an improved choke smoothbore barrel out to 75 yards with the williams sights but they discontinued it. I have a stash and will use them again if I ever do the shotgun only hunt again.

Primers, powder, bullets, ammo, essentially every component, even muzzleloader stuff is being picked up by preppers, it is annoying as heck.

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Originally Posted by impact

Why would you say that? You don't need a magnum rifle for deer.
I have one and can vouch for its accuracy when I shoot the Remington accutips.

"The new Savage 20-gauge Model 220 F is a true bolt-action "slug rifle" that delivers minute-of-angle accuracy at 100 yards, effective range to 200 yards, and more power than either the .454 Casull handgun cartridge or the .45-70 Gov't. in a rifle. It is not just state-of-the-art, it advances the art. It gives slug gun hunters the firearm they have dreamed of for many years, and for most hunting situations in the eastern half of the nation, it makes a centerfire rifle unnecessary."

https://www.shootingtimes.com/editor...t_201007/99471

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Trying to figure out what he is expecting, sabot slugs are like hens teeth right now. There is no context to the misses, just that they were misses. What grouping was he getting on range and what distance. Maybe other ideas as to how he could make due until ammunition is made available. I know a few people who love the accutip but if you cannot get them then what is the point in even discussing them.

I mention the magnum rifle because there are 2 sides of things, some people claim that a smoothbore shotgun with slugs is no good past 10 yards and then others who say that the rifled barrel slug guns can kill out past 300 yards, both are ridiculous under most normal circumstances. If the deer were missed at 150 yards with a smoothbore gun and that is his expected range then yes, find a sabot slug that works, but if the expected range is 75 yards then play with chokes, get some sights on the barrel and try a few different brands of slugs, including attached wad slugs.

Ask me how I know, I have a crap ton of partial boxes of slugs in the cabinet, most are just good for making noise now and to give that macho friend a test of recoil.

Sabots are becoming available again. Tillsonburg Gun Shop has a pretty good selection including accutips. As you can tell by the responses the only way to tell is to try box of 3 or 4 different brands and see what works in your gun. I used to use Partition Golds with really good effect but then switched to Accutips as they were a little more accurate. Currently I only hunt the woods and I've switched to the Federal blue box lead sabots. They're accurate to 100yds or so and perfect for what I need. TC

I hear and read all the time that cheaper ammo is more accurate than the premium ammo. Case in point, from my experience, is when I bought my 700 Remington in 270 WSM. I purchased some Winchester Power Points, which are very inexpensive comparted to the premium ammo in this caliber and they shot lights out accurate.
I then moved up to Winchester Accubond and had a hard time getting good groups so I moved to Federal Trophy Bonded and although they were a bit better they couldn't match the accuracy of the cheap Power Points. Remington Core Lokts shoot very well in my Savage 114 in 300 Win Mag....makes me scratch my head!
I use premium ammo for the bullet construction incase I hit shoulder bones etc. but I still can't figure out why cheap ammo is almost always more accurate?

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Originally Posted by huntnmachine

I hear and read all the time that cheaper ammo is more accurate than the premium ammo. Case in point, from my experience, is when I bought my 700 Remington in 270 WSM. I purchased some Winchester Power Points, which are very inexpensive comparted to the premium ammo in this caliber and they shot lights out accurate.
I then moved up to Winchester Accubond and had a hard time getting good groups so I moved to Federal Trophy Bonded and although they were a bit better they couldn't match the accuracy of the cheap Power Points. Remington Core Lokts shoot very well in my Savage 114 in 300 Win Mag....makes me scratch my head!
I use premium ammo for the bullet construction incase I hit shoulder bones etc. but I still can't figure out why cheap ammo is almost always more accurate?

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That is the thing eh, you either find ammo that works well in your gun or start reloading to make the bullet you want accurate in your gun, not that easy to do in a rifled shotgun though.

I agree on the cheaper stuff not being taken off the table, Winchester grey box 3in steel shot patterns great in my shotgun for ducks and geese, cheap challenger ammo too but black cloud is crap.

Got out to the range today to try the new shotgun out.
All I had was Challenger rifled slugs, so I sighted at 50 yards.
The final 3-shot group I fired grouped about 2” above the centre bull, and the hole spread was less than 2” for the 3 shots. I figured that was a decent group using just rifled slugs for a starting point.
Looking forward to what groups I can get with some sabots.
For some reason I can’t get photos to upload to this site from either my iPad or my computer, so I can’t show the target or the new gun.

I'm not sure but I have been told you should not shoot rifled slugs (Non Sabots) through a rifled shotgun. My understanding is it can gum upthe rifling. But I don't know for sure.

yes leading can be an issue, give the barrel a good scrubbing when you're done.

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Originally Posted by Fox

That is the thing eh, you either find ammo that works well in your gun or start reloading to make the bullet you want accurate in your gun, not that easy to do in a rifled shotgun though.

I agree on the cheaper stuff not being taken off the table, Winchester grey box 3in steel shot patterns great in my shotgun for ducks and geese, cheap challenger ammo too but black cloud is crap.

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Although I agree with most that you posted I disagree with the black cloud being crap. My boys and I hunt a ton of ducks every fall. I decided to purchase a flat last fall, "pressure from my boys to try premium duck loads" and they performed great. My oldest uses a Remington Versa Max, My youngest uses a Beretta and the old man uses a Weatherby, all semi auto's and they all shot lights out with Black Cloud.
Did the cheaper shells work good...yes they did, but in this instance the premium shells worked better. Better range, better spread and better killing power.
Sorry to the OP for getting off track

I have not tried any of the premium shells for Ducks I was thinking of trying some. What type Black Cloud did you try, they have many types I see. I was also thinking of trying Heavy Metal but that seems to be gone.

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Originally Posted by smokeeter

yes leading can be an issue, give the barrel a good scrubbing when you're done.

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X2-also when switching to sabots keep in mind-after about 5-10 shots you will be better off doing a good barrel cleaning, to remove the plastic fouling.
With appropriate cleaning solvent ,which helps remove plastics.
Otherwise You may disregard good sabots, thinking they do not shoot well for your gun-yet Your barrel has plastic fouling.

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Originally Posted by genec

Got out to the range today to try the new shotgun out.
All I had was Challenger rifled slugs, so I sighted at 50 yards.
The final 3-shot group I fired grouped about 2” above the centre bull, and the hole spread was less than 2” for the 3 shots. I figured that was a decent group using just rifled slugs for a starting point.
Looking forward to what groups I can get with some sabots.
For some reason I can’t get photos to upload to this site from either my iPad or my computer, so I can’t show the target or the new gun.

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Join imgur and upload your pics there. Click on the pic and the click on bbcode and then paste in your post here. Works great and you can edit your pics as well.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I have not tried any of the premium shells for Ducks I was thinking of trying some. What type Black Cloud did you try, they have many types I see. I was also thinking of trying Heavy Metal but that seems to be gone.

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The box just said Black Cloud # 2

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Originally Posted by huntnmachine

Although I agree with most that you posted I disagree with the black cloud being crap. My boys and I hunt a ton of ducks every fall. I decided to purchase a flat last fall, "pressure from my boys to try premium duck loads" and they performed great. My oldest uses a Remington Versa Max, My youngest uses a Beretta and the old man uses a Weatherby, all semi auto's and they all shot lights out with Black Cloud.
Did the cheaper shells work good...yes they did, but in this instance the premium shells worked better. Better range, better spread and better killing power.
Sorry to the OP for getting off track

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In my gun it is crap, ha ha, cheaper ammo tends to pattern better and if you cannot hit what you are trying to then no matter how much hype it is crap to you.

I was actually getting a bit of a doughnut pattern, was really weird, no matter the choke.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by genec

Got out to the range today to try the new shotgun out.
All I had was Challenger rifled slugs, so I sighted at 50 yards.
The final 3-shot group I fired grouped about 2” above the centre bull, and the hole spread was less than 2” for the 3 shots. I figured that was a decent group using just rifled slugs for a starting point.
Looking forward to what groups I can get with some sabots.
For some reason I can’t get photos to upload to this site from either my iPad or my computer, so I can’t show the target or the new gun.

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The challengers were in a smoothbore barrel or a rifled barrel? They say they can be used in either but they can lead up the barrel. Give them a try in your smoothbore barrel with an improved choke, modified if you do not have the improved. Just give it a shot and see what it does, you may be pleasantly surprised.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I have not tried any of the premium shells for Ducks I was thinking of trying some. What type Black Cloud did you try, they have many types I see. I was also thinking of trying Heavy Metal but that seems to be gone.

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Try Winchester Blind Side!
I switched to it when it came out, and have been knocking geese down with it easily, with clean kills and little crippling.

. Give them a try in your smoothbore barrel with an improved choke, modified if you do not have the improved. Just give it a shot and see what it does, you may be pleasantly surprised.[/QUOTE]
Thats exactly the setup I missed 2 deer with last fall.
I was trying them yesterday in the new gun w the rifled barrel cause they were the only slugs I had to try the gun out with.

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Originally Posted by Fox

In my gun it is crap, ha ha, cheaper ammo tends to pattern better and if you cannot hit what you are trying to then no matter how much hype it is crap to you.

I was actually getting a bit of a doughnut pattern, was really weird, no matter the choke.

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They shoot lights out in all three of our shotguns and that's all that matters to us. We will not be using cheapies when it comes to waterfowl any more

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Originally Posted by genec

. Give them a try in your smoothbore barrel with an improved choke, modified if you do not have the improved. Just give it a shot and see what it does, you may be pleasantly surprised.

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Thats exactly the setup I missed 2 deer with last fall.
I was trying them yesterday in the new gun w the rifled barrel cause they were the only slugs I had to try the gun out with.[/QUOTE]

Crazy

How did they pattern in the smoothbore gun?

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Originally Posted by huntnmachine

They shoot lights out in all three of our shotguns and that's all that matters to us. We will not be using cheapies when it comes to waterfowl any more

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I have heard similar things from others, but they blow out the pattern in my 870.

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Originally Posted by Fox

Thats exactly the setup I missed 2 deer with last fall.
I was trying them yesterday in the new gun w the rifled barrel cause they were the only slugs I had to try the gun out with.

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Crazy

How did they pattern in the smoothbore gun?[/QUOTE]
Here is the group at 50 yards, and the gun.

Attachment 42019Attachment 42021

This thread is enough proof that every gun is different. Buy every single brand you can afford, Clean your barrel after a few shots, Take your time and line it up right.


Sabots are expensive when ya start lining up, Do it right the first time it's actually pretty cheap when you start hunting with them, If you can hit where your aiming, Everytime.

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Good point!

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Originally Posted by huntnmachine

They shoot lights out in all three of our shotguns and that's all that matters to us. We will not be using cheapies when it comes to waterfowl any more

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That stuff's too expensive for this guy!

I tend to shoot 4-5 flats in a waterfowl season, and have had great luck the last 5 years with the SCORE ammo. Throw a Patternmaster Long Range in there, shoot whatever's cheapest and have at 'er.

Sorry for the thread derail.

-N.

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Originally Posted by SongDog

This thread is enough proof that every gun is different. Buy every single brand you can afford, Clean your barrel after a few shots, Take your time and line it up right.


Sabots are expensive when ya start lining up, Do it right the first time it's actually pretty cheap when you start hunting with them, If you can hit where your aiming, Everytime.

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That’s the ticket.

I’ll add one thing. Wait at least five minutes between shots.. This is a must whenever a sabot is in play unless you are shooting serious sub zero temps.

Slug barrels are thin and heat up quickly. Pull a bore snake through every three shots.

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Originally Posted by Big Jack

That’s the ticket.

I’ll add one thing. Wait at least five minutes between shots.. This is a must whenever a sabot is in play unless you are shooting serious sub zero temps.

Slug barrels are thin and heat up quickly. Pull a bore snake through every three shots.

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Especially because you will be hunting with a cold and most likely clean barrel, this is dead on.

Also, once you are sighted in then take a few shots to see how the next shots group and if they group at the same POI. Some guns like a dirty bore, a fouling shot if you will. If this is the case then make sure you leave the bore dirty if you can so that your shots land where they should be.

Anyone ever done any cold weather testing?

Reason I ask I lined up gun up around zero degrees Celsius.


Shot a coyote last year at 140 yards with 20guage sabot and just caught him low enough to make him spin and he ran closer so I was able to hit him again.


Cold air is heavier and slows a bullet down, It was almost -20 that day. I figured my impact was 4-6"lower than expected. Has me wondering how it much it really affects my 20guage....


I notice it with my .22 250 shooting over 300 yards on very cold days....

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Originally Posted by SongDog

Anyone ever done any cold weather testing?

Reason I ask I lined up gun up around zero degrees Celsius.


Shot a coyote last year at 140 yards with 20guage sabot and just caught him low enough to make him spin and he ran closer so I was able to hit him again.


Cold air is heavier and slows a bullet down, It was almost -20 that day. I figured my impact was 4-6"lower than expected. Has me wondering how it much it really affects my 20guage....


I notice it with my .22 250 shooting over 300 yards on very cold days....

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The changes to muzzle velocity on powders is minimal, even for bad powders but I would think that at longer ranges the air density would actually change the point of impact. To what extent I do not know, but I do know that there is a lot more wind when the leaves are off the trees and since winds are never consistent it may just be that.

Powder is a funny thing. I have found some to be down right terrible and some with little difference.
Yes sabots will change poi in really cold weather. Keep in mind shotguns have low pressure barrels and loads. It doesn’t take much pressure drop to see the bullet change poi.
They have a rainbow trajectory

I’ll add, I’ve often wondered if the steel barrel being really cold constricts enough to cause more drag on the projectile.

It would seem possible and plausible.

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Originally Posted by Big Jack

I’ll add, I’ve often wondered if the steel barrel being really cold constricts enough to cause more drag on the projectile.

It would seem possible and plausible.

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Steel does not move much though, you would see more variation in barrel size after shooting 1 or 2 shots than what would happen with a 40C drop in temperatures.

Remember how hot your barrel gets in the heat of the summer when out in the field under the sun, probably hotter than the cold of the winter but still nothing like what is caused by the friction in firing.

Stainless steel would move more than carbon steel, but again not to that much of a degree.

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Originally Posted by Fox

Steel does not move much though, you would see more variation in barrel size after shooting 1 or 2 shots than what would happen with a 40C drop in temperatures.

Remember how hot your barrel gets in the heat of the summer when out in the field under the sun, probably hotter than the cold of the winter but still nothing like what is caused by the friction in firing.

Stainless steel would move more than carbon steel, but again not to that much of a degree.

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Not sure I would totally agree with that, there's a lot more expansion and contraction in metal than most would think. Like you said though it does depend on the metal, some expand more than others. I couldn't count the amount of times I used a heat gun or a very hot oven to heat up an end bell so I could drop a bearing into the hole without having to force it in using an arbor press. Interference fits would be an example where one part is heated and the other part cooled to make an easy fit that becomes very tight once temps stabilize. I used to measure 1/16" SS pivots for fitting into yokes on a gimbal assy for a nice firm fit. I was measuring these to 5 decimal points and separating them into different bags for fitting selection. The micrometer was mounted in a stand and I had to handle the pivots with tweezers so the heat from my fingers would not affect the measurement reading. Now we're taking fine tolerances here but it was still surprising how much difference in the fit there was between a few hundreds of a thousandth of an inch.

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Originally Posted by smitty55

Not sure I would totally agree with that, there's a lot more expansion and contraction in metal than most would think. Like you said though it does depend on the metal, some expand more than others. I couldn't count the amount of times I used a heat gun or a very hot oven to heat up an end bell so I could drop a bearing into the hole without having to force it in using an arbor press. Interference fits would be an example where one part is heated and the other part cooled to make an easy fit that becomes very tight once temps stabilize. I used to measure 1/16" SS pivots for fitting into yokes on a gimbal assy for a nice firm fit. I was measuring these to 5 decimal points and separating them into different bags for fitting selection. The micrometer was mounted in a stand and I had to handle the pivots with tweezers so the heat from my fingers would not affect the measurement reading. Now we're taking fine tolerances here but it was still surprising how much difference in the fit there was between a few hundreds of a thousandth of an inch.

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remember though that all the components will expand or contract at their material rate with the temperature change. Therefore the lead core and copper jacket will shrink as well as the steel but lead shrinks at 2.5x the amount that steel does, copper is closer to the steel than the lead. Based on that you would expect the lead to shrink inside the copper jacket and de-laminate, but that is not going to happen at these temperature ranges.

Plastics with no structural support added, yes you will have a bunch of movement but metals do not expand and contract much. If you are talking extreme temperatures sure but 40, even 60C is not that much, cryogenic temperatures sure.

Yes, put your bearing in the freezer and your pillow block in the oven to be able to assemble them but you are not going to see significant changes in a narrow tube barrel compared to the bullets.

I don’t know guys.
I do know what song dog is talking about and have seen exactly that.

Song Dog, do you reload or buy factory?
If you reload look for an extreme powder or temp insensitive powder which would likely be double based. That is what I typically find best.

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Originally Posted by Big Jack

I don’t know guys.
I do know what song dog is talking about and have seen exactly that.

Song Dog, do you reload or buy factory?
If you reload look for an extreme powder or temp insensitive powder which would likely be double based. That is what I typically find best.

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The metallurgy matters though, when you are taking steel and steel or even steel and stainless steel the coefficient of linear thermal expansion is very similar. These parts are designed and made to be a tight fit, a fit that requires them to be pressed when at extreme temperature variation. Think about it though, they both change temperature at the same time so the pillow block will shrink with the bearing and expand in a similar manner, this keeps them from breaking or falling apart.

Based on the numbers the bullets, of all types, will move more than the barrel itself but they will also move in the same direction at the same time. Based on this the barrel will shrink but the bullets will shrink more, the reverse will happen when you go up in temperature. At the same time though the barrel getting hot by shooting raises the temperature a lot more than just being in the sun, just by friction, so your 2nd and 3rd shot should change POI much more than just shooting in hot or cold weather.

Now the density of the air though increases with lower temperatures but also changed with relative humidity, although I do not think this has that much of an effect. I think that powder and primers, leading to velocity changes and unseen winds make more of a difference than the friction of the air or the barrel getting larger or smaller.

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Originally Posted by Sprite

My Mossberg 500 rifled 20 likes the 2 3/4" Hornady SSTs better than the Remington Accutips!

-N.

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I found 2 boxes of those Hornady SSTs at my CTC store today, but OMG…the price!
I will be saving those for very final sight-in and actual hunting loads, cause there is no way I’m wasting them on first sighting in attempts … I will keep looking for some cheaper sabots to start with.

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Originally Posted by genec

I found 2 boxes of those Hornady SSTs at my CTC store today, but OMG…the price!
I will be saving those for very final sight-in and actual hunting loads, cause there is no way I’m wasting them on first sighting in attempts … I will keep looking for some cheaper sabots to start with.

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Yup! 5$ a shell more or less. Between sighting them in and then going for the hunt youre looking at least 100$ minimum.

I refuse! Give me my $8 a box rifled slugs !

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Alliston CT has 2 3/4" 20guage Remington Accu Tip sabots for $17.99 a box. I think there's 10+ boxes.

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Found out that I really got ripped off for the Hornady SSTs at CTC!!
Was at Erie Tracker in Pt. Colborne yesterday, and the had the SSTs for $19.95 a box, so I picked up 1 more box of them, plus 2 boxes of Federal sabots at $15.99 for initial sighting in.

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Originally Posted by SongDog

Alliston CT has 2 3/4" 20guage Remington Accu Tip sabots for $17.99 a box. I think there's 10+ boxes.

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8 left now. 17.99 is a killer deal compare to the other places.

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Originally Posted by Abins136

8 left now. 17.99 is a killer deal compare to the other places.

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I would have bought them all if they were 3" lol it is good deal

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Originally Posted by genec

I found 2 boxes of those Hornady SSTs at my CTC store today, but OMG…the price!
I will be saving those for very final sight-in and actual hunting loads, cause there is no way I’m wasting them on first sighting in attempts … I will keep looking for some cheaper sabots to start with.

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That is one of the major reasons I asked how the rifled and attached wad slugs shot ;)

I found the rack master slugs, bought a pile of them and left my rifled barrel for sits where I would be shooting 1 shot, for drives and running deer in close I just used the rifled slugs, but they clover leaved for me at 50 yards.

Any chance you are shooting a Mossberg with an overbored barrel? I used to hunt with a guy with one of those, he had to get a rifled barrel to shoot slugs as the 12ga barrel had essentially a 10ga bore.

Rem Accutips 2-3/4" 12 ga