Idiot truck manufactures

So the other day my truck would not start. No nothing but I have lights an everything else but no start.

Battery is good did a load test on it. Pulled starter had no choice as there was no other way to test the wires going to it except by pulling it. Now what ever idiot decided to put it in a place where you cannot reach the wires except to loosen off the starter and then rotate it in awkward positions to disconnect it and then even twisted it in more position should be ...... . I tested the starter now that it's off and it seems fine, tested the wires and the big one has 12 volts and when we turn the ignition on the smaller one has 12 volts. But the meter in the truck still only says 10.

I can't for the life of me figure out what else to test before putting the starter back in.

Have to get this working soon so I can move the trailer.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

So the other day my truck would not start. No nothing but I have lights an everything else but no start.

Battery is good did a load test on it. Pulled starter had no choice as there was no other way to test the wires going to it except by pulling it. Now what ever idiot decided to put it in a place where you cannot reach the wires except to loosen off the starter and then rotate it in awkward positions to disconnect it and then even twisted it in more position should be ...... . I tested the starter now that it's off and it seems fine, tested the wires and the big one has 12 volts and when we turn the ignition on the smaller one has 12 volts. But the meter in the truck still only says 10.

I can't for the life of me figure out what else to test before putting the starter back in.

Have to get this working soon so I can move the trailer.

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Did you check fuses and circuit breakers?

Ford?

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Before removing the starter, did you try banging on it with a hammer while someone turned the key to the crank position?

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Originally Posted by rf2

Before removing the starter, did you try banging on it with a hammer while someone turned the key to the crank position?

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^^^ Hockey stick and a hammer work well for this. Sometimes the act of removing and reinstalling 'un-sticks' them.

I would use a multi meter to test the voltage going to the starter, insert the probes directly into the starter cable (sharpen if required), I would also test the starter relay as they get stuck.

Clean the battery terminals with a brush and ensure all connections are tight, a loose connection can return a reading of 12v but not have the the surface area to draw the high amps a starter requires. I had a car stall on the way home due to a dirty battery connection.

You are reading 10v at the gauge because the ignition system is using power even when the engine is not running (key on engine off).

I second the idea of checking the terminals and tighten or clean as necessary. Also check the relays/fuses!

its incredible that even with the size of the hood on our pickups they still have no room to work on them. I had a 92 f150 you could practically sit under the hood while working on the engine. Lots of room to play in older trucks.

Yeah my old 1988 Ranger was a breeze to work on.

I tried to test the wires going to the starter but very hard because of the length. The wires are to short I have to reach in blindly with the multi meter wire and try to get a contact on the wire my readings were all over the place from 8 - 11, so was it a bad connection or bad wire. Going to pick up some alligator clips tomorrow and some wire so I can do a better test.

Canadian Tire use to Load Test Starters for free at one time, does anyone know if they still do that.

Yes battery terminals were cleaned. I always keep those cleaned.

If you have 12V at both terminals, then I would be looking at either a stuck solenoid (do the hockey stick hit... not too hard or you can shatter the magnets)... or you could have a bad ground which may suddenly start working when you bolt it back on.

I've seen a rebuilder "load test" a starter they fire it up in a vice and try to stop the gear with a 2x4. I've had the park/neutral switch in the shifter keep my old honda from cranking. Ford's are famous for starter cables rotting out. What kind of truck is it?

Yes, I was going to sat that the neutral safety switch can also cause a similar problem. If your vehicle does not know it is in park or neutral, it may not start. My Jeep was doing this for a while, but I could get it to start by switching it into neutral. I eventually changed the NSS, but be aware that they can be pretty expensive.

Check the ground to frame wire buddies Ford had same symptoms and the ground wire rotted off that it gave enough contact to read voltage but would not start. Had to crimp on a new lug and good to go

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Originally Posted by gooseman

Check the ground to frame wire buddies Ford had same symptoms and the ground wire rotted off that it gave enough contact to read voltage but would not start. Had to crimp on a new lug and good to go

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I'd guess the ground wire from the engine to the frame as well.

My 2010 F250 has seating room for two small kids in engine bay...lol

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Originally Posted by Birdbuff

I second the idea of checking the terminals and tighten or clean as necessary. Also check the relays/fuses!

its incredible that even with the size of the hood on our pickups they still have no room to work on them. I had a 92 f150 you could practically sit under the hood while working on the engine. Lots of room to play in older trucks.

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I checked the Ground wire, it's fine. I haven't check the neutral Safety Switch yet

Have you plugged in a diagnostic tester to the truck?
With the computers cars/trucks use now this could give you an answer.
The computer could also be the problem.
Have you tried your other key? The truck may not be reading the chip on your key.

Key doesn't have a chip. No Codes to read.

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Originally Posted by Woodsman

Have you plugged in a diagnostic tester to the truck?
With the computers cars/trucks use now this could give you an answer.
The computer could also be the problem.
Have you tried your other key? The truck may not be reading the chip on your key.

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Going to go get the starter Load tested just to make sure before I put it back in. As that is a 2 hour job with almost no room to squeeze it back in and then put wires back on it.

What kind of truck & what year?

2001 Jimmy SLS 4WD

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Originally Posted by Woodsman

What kind of truck & what year?

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Be sure to tell us what you find to be the problem. Fusable link.. thermal protection messing up...

So latest updates. Parts Source doesn't do a load test just a basic test. So I cam back home. I bought some alligator clips so I could lengthen the wires and test the current. Everything reads fine. Even hooked the starter up out of the truck and it turns over when I turn the key. The strange parts is the volt meter in the truck reads only 10 volts. Maybe that is because the engine isn't running. I'm going to put the starter back in tonight and see what happens. But even if it does start that tells me nothing as it could do this again when I am camping.

I wonder if the starter would turn if the Neutral Safety switch was done or the ignition switch was done? Will see what happens when I put it back in first. It is still possible that the starter is done because they did not test it under load.

If the NSS is not telling the computer that the vehicle is in park or neutral, the vehicle won't crank at all - at least that was my experience. It was an intermittent problem for me, so just because your truck cranked when you tried it today, doesn't mean the NSS is fine. Next time you run into this problem, just try switching back and forth between park and neutral and cranking in both positions. If it starts, then the NSS might be the problem.

If the starter is the problem, my guess is that you will put the starter back in and it will crank right up. Sometime in the near future, you will have a similar problem, so carry a hammer and whatever length solid material you need to be able to bang on the starter while someone cranks it. When you get tired of that, just change the starter and solenoid.

I'm going to have to figure out what the real issue is. Cant take a chance of it not working when I am out in the bush. Going to take it to an old fella who came highly recommended, which is where I should have taken it the first time. So it will be Monday before I put the starter back in.

I probably won't be much of assistance, but i've been reading thread and think I might be on to somethin'.
Step 1) Move the Mrs' car out of the car port.
Step 2) Slowly push said truck into carport beside woodpile.
Step 3) wait another week for strong wind gust.
Step 4) re-stack wood and claim insurance for new Pick-up.

Your Welcome:)

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Originally Posted by LiveBates

I probably won't be much of assistance, but i've been reading thread and think I might be on to somethin'.
Step 1) Move the Mrs' car out of the car port.
Step 2) Slowly push said truck into carport beside woodpile.
Step 3) wait another week for strong wind gust.
Step 4) re-stack wood and claim insurance for new Pick-up.

Your Welcome:)

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Roll the truck away from wife's car AND the house. POOF!! "I don't know. I was having electrical trouble with it all week. Must have been a short,I guess."

I was thinking something more extreme get a real big fire going in the garage wood stove.............

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Originally Posted by trimmer21

Roll the truck away from wife's car AND the house. POOF!! "I don't know. I was having electrical trouble with it all week. Must have been a short,I guess."

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Originally Posted by LiveBates

I probably won't be much of assistance, but i've been reading thread and think I might be on to somethin'.
Step 1) Move the Mrs' car out of the car port.
Step 2) Slowly push said truck into carport beside woodpile.
Step 3) wait another week for strong wind gust.
Step 4) re-stack wood and claim insurance for new Pick-up.

Your Welcome:)

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Couple years back had a no-start issue on my '02 F150. They've got a solenoid on the firewall, and a second solenoid on the starter. The solenoid on the firewall froze... everything in the truck worked, power to everything, and when you turned the key nothing happened, not even a click.

In the process of diagnosing out in the bush (-30C, 100km away from a cell tower), I had the ignition on, and turned the heater fan on high for a minute (recommended in the manual when boosting off another vehicle, to prevent voltage spikes... not that it applied to me as I was boosting off a 2nd battery on my own). Reached back inside, turned the key, and it fired up.

The solenoid had frozen; but the connection points act as a point of resistance. Running the fan drew enough power to warm up the solenoid, as it's the solenoid that also passes power to the fuse panel for everything else in the truck... warmed up enough that it unfroze and started.

I'm taking the starter two a place that rebuilds them to test it this week. However if it doesn't work when I put it back in this week I'm going to by pass the ignition and put a push button in.

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Originally Posted by northernontario

Couple years back had a no-start issue on my '02 F150. They've got a solenoid on the firewall, and a second solenoid on the starter. The solenoid on the firewall froze... everything in the truck worked, power to everything, and when you turned the key nothing happened, not even a click.

In the process of diagnosing out in the bush (-30C, 100km away from a cell tower), I had the ignition on, and turned the heater fan on high for a minute (recommended in the manual when boosting off another vehicle, to prevent voltage spikes... not that it applied to me as I was boosting off a 2nd battery on my own). Reached back inside, turned the key, and it fired up.

The solenoid had frozen; but the connection points act as a point of resistance. Running the fan drew enough power to warm up the solenoid, as it's the solenoid that also passes power to the fuse panel for everything else in the truck... warmed up enough that it unfroze and started.

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So had a shop in Chrysler Ont test my starter fella use to rebuild them but sold his equipment, he said the starter was very weak so I am going to replace it. Got a price of 145 with core return on new starter, but waiting on a friend as I might be able to get it cheaper. Busy most of this week so hopefully get it put in on Saturday or Sunday.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

So had a shop in Chrysler Ont test my starter fella use to rebuild them but sold his equipment, he said the starter was very weak so I am going to replace it. Got a price of 145 with core return on new starter, but waiting on a friend as I might be able to get it cheaper. Busy most of this week so hopefully get it put in on Saturday or Sunday.

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I hope that solves your problem.
Best of luck

Picked up the new starter on Thursday and just spent 2 hours this morning putting it in. Yes it runs! So that was the problem. I originally had it tested at Parts Source (Canadian Tire owned) and they said it was good according to their little machine. but that machine does not test how strong the motor is under load.When I cam back home I tested it some more and thought to myself that the shaft and Pinion don't seem to be
coming out as fast and strong as I expected. So I took it to a place I knew of that the fella use to rebuild them and he said the motor didn't seem to have much power.

But I am still worried for some reason that maybe it was something else as this just seems wierd that the starter failed so fast and only 150K on it.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

Picked up the new starter on Thursday and just spent 2 hours this morning putting it in. Yes it runs! So that was the problem. I originally had it tested at Parts Source (Canadian Tire owned) and they said it was good according to their little machine. but that machine does not test how strong the motor is under load.When I cam back home I tested it some more and thought to myself that the shaft and Pinion don't seem to be
coming out as fast and strong as I expected. So I took it to a place I knew of that the fella use to rebuild them and he said the motor didn't seem to have much power.

But I am still worried for some reason that maybe it was something else as this just seems wierd that the starter failed so fast and only 150K on it.

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Is it a GM Delco? I have never had a starter issue except on a GM product and I used to own many. In fact I had electrical issues on every single GM product from GM trucks, cars and even Oldsmobile.
#neverGM

Yes it was a GM Delco

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Originally Posted by skypilot

Is it a GM Delco? I have never had a starter issue except on a GM product and I used to own many. In fact I had electrical issues on every single GM product from GM trucks, cars and even Oldsmobile.
#neverGM

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Sorry about your troubles GW, lots of effort, money and aggravation to you I'm sure, but no surprise to me that it was GM crap.

I had to swear off their products after numerous years and issues....C10 truck engine caught fire and destroyed the truck, a custom deluxe pickup crankshaft failed, a Toronado Brougham Coupe CV joints failed and a Storm had electrical problems and the driver's door eventually wouldn't open to name a few.

I always had some electrical gremlin and like you had to replace starters, solenoids and many alternators before a reasonable time.

Well so far I have replaced the front wheel bearings, replaced the rear brake shoes. and found that the emergency brake shoe was broken and seized so I tossed that out. never used an emergency brake in my life. So I still need to check diff and transfer case fluids, replace wires and plugs as well as replace oil cooler lines later this summer. Also checked the body supports to see if I could remove the bolts as I want to maybe put a body lift this fall and they seem easy to take off.

Got my plug wire from the US for 18 even with deliveryh to my parents in Florida and the exchange rate I save 50.00 bucks. Wish the cooler lines were that cheap.

I do have an energy leak someplace in the cold winter the truck battery will die in 3 days in the summer 2 weeks. So I bought a solar charger. :)

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Originally Posted by skypilot

Sorry about your troubles GW, lots of effort, money and aggravation to you I'm sure, but no surprise to me that it was GM crap.

I had to swear off their products after numerous years and issues....C10 truck engine caught fire and destroyed the truck, a custom deluxe pickup crankshaft failed, a Toronado Brougham Coupe CV joints failed and a Storm had electrical problems and the driver's door eventually wouldn't open to name a few.

I always had some electrical gremlin and like you had to replace starters, solenoids and many alternators before a reasonable time.

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Originally Posted by greatwhite

I do have an energy leak someplace in the cold winter the truck battery will die in 3 days in the summer 2 weeks. So I bought a solar charger. :)

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lol perfect. We have a couple of atvs at camp with the same problem AND same solution, a small solar cell.

I would like to solve the problem but I'm not much of an electrical guy. I would get my budy to look at it but when he's down next he will be replacing the generator seal on my ATV and I will be rebuilding/overhauling the outboard. This is a quick fix and will also be good to keep the battery maintained especially if we play the radio and the truck isn't running while were camping. I picked up the solar charger from Harbor freight in the US for 8 dollars my Dad will mail it up to me with my other stuff when he gets back to Canada in April.

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Originally Posted by skypilot

lol perfect. We have a couple of atvs at camp with the same problem AND same solution, a small solar cell.

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Me either, if it gets complicated. Last time I had truck elect. problems it was a bad voltage regulator.

I wish we had harbor freight in Canada. They are like the Princess Auto in Canada.