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OK So I have been watching for Stihl chainsaws to go on sale but the best I have seen all
Summer is 439.00 for a new MS250 or I can get this older but almost mint 026 for 350.00.
With the new I get a 1 year warranty and the used I save 150.00.
I got him down to 350.00
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-tool-other/g...026/1306951773
New
https://en.stihl.ca/STIHL-Products/C...10/MS-250.aspx
Never had a problem with my 034 stihl in 25 years go cheaper
All the best Don
GW..the 026 is the best saw Stihl ever made...they're real workhorses. At $350 for a near mind is pretty good. I' have 3 of them, buy them whenever they come up at estate auctions....I'm set for life :)
No warranty isn't a big deal, they rarely break and easy to fix.
OK Stihl 026 it is.
From what I read the O26 was replaced by the 261 around 2001, and is a Pro saw. It seems to be better built and if the picture isn't lying it's pretty close to mint. The MS250 is just a home saw.
I did get my 025 running but seem to still have a bit of an issue with it I'll fix it this winter.
Maybe I should sell my old Poulans which are still running probably get 20 bucks for each of them.
Going for the Saw tomorrow afternoon as I have some tree cutting to do on Sunday and really could not wait any longer.
Yes the 026 is s great saw. I have had a few over the years. On a side note most guys buy to big of a saw for the work Thu are going to use it for. The 026 in a great all round saw
Your right, the 026 is an excellent 'go to' saw, powerful enough to do heavy work, but still light enough to do the limbing.Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchhunter
I bought an 036 (the 2nd best saw Stihl ever made ) fitted with an 18" bar for blocking wood. It's handles the 12" + stuff better than the 026. It's heavier and not easy to carry all day, but it just tears thru the thick stuff.
For the amount of wood you cut GW, you'll do well with the 026 and it should last you for many years to come, good buy. I still use my first one, bought it used and have had it for 20 yrs.
I have the MS260 which is the more modern version of the 026. I used to cut tandem loads of firewood with it until I went to natural gas heating. I still use it occasionally for bush lot maintenance. I can't believe how much they retain their value in the used market.
Her are 5 saws for sale in Metcalfe you may want to check out on Kijiji.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-power-tool/o...ationFlag=true
The 026 was replaced by the MS260 around 2002. The MS260 was replaced by the MS261 - maybe 3 or 4 years ago - when then add the 1's to all the pro models.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
I have two 260's.
The MS250 is a homeowner saw. Not in the same league as the 260.
$350 is not a bad price if the saw is in "new" condition - you aren't likely to find a good 026/ms260 for under 300.
Not sure if he's still doing it but there is a guy who lives just north of Russell that fixes up old stihls and resells them on Kijiji. He used to own Triole small engine in Ottawa. He's a great guy, honest and knows stihls inside out. I bought my older 260 from him. The other I bought new.
I can see why you started a new thread for this post.
You asked for advice in the previous thread and I explained that you would be better off with a older 026 or
MS 260 pro saw and you responded that all MS saws are now home owner grade not pro grade.
I would tell you to be careful with this seller as he has 19 other things for sale if you press the “ other listings “ tab. A lot of them are small engine related. IE chainsaws,snowblowers etc, but I’m sure you know all this already.
Good luck with the saw can’t go wrong with a 026
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So I went and met the fellow and I bought the saw, he's a few years older than me and makes extra cash buying stuff from Repo's. The saw is mint still has all original paint no scratches on the body just a little wear on the bar. Definitely way more power than my O25 and about 1 pound heavier.
He also had an old huge gas welder that's water cooled so my buddy might be coming down to buy that. This was definetly a good buy saw is very very easy to start 1 pull and it starts just like new.
The 1's doesn't mean it's a pro model. Just the next generation. If the middle number is even, it's a pro model (261, 362, 461, 660, 661 etc)Quote:
Originally Posted by werner.reiche
If the middle number is odd, it landscape or homeowner grade. (170, 251, 271, 291 etc)
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MS180 ???Quote:
Originally Posted by LowbanksArcher
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Homeowner sawQuote:
Originally Posted by stragglelake
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...omeowner-saws/
Well, son of a .....Quote:
Originally Posted by stragglelake
You got me on that one
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Fixed it [emoji6]Quote:
Originally Posted by LowbanksArcher
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Lol .... thanks for the info.
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I got a new MS250 for $249.00 in Brockville about 2 months ago. The annual Sthil Fall sale.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowbanksArcher
I didn't say 1's were pro models. I said they added the one's to the pro models (260 became 261 etc). Not sure what they have done with the homeowner numbers. I don't pay much attention to them. You are right about the middle number being even indicating a pro model - but I think there are some exceptions to this.
I watched all summer and not a single big sale where I am
But if that m170 goes on sale next spring I want it for the atv.
I used the 026 this weekend you want believe the cutting I did and I'm not doing that again. Although I dropped the tree dead on. Probably the most dangerous work I ever did and took awhile to recuperate just from the fear factor.
Yup maybe getting to old for that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by line052
I picked up a 261 in 2012 and have been very pleased with it. I heat with wood and decided that investing in a nice saw rather than a homeowner model would pay for itself over the years, and it has never let me down.
You mention the 170 - I took one on a trade a while back and fixed it up. I've been very happy with this little guy as well. If you cut a lot of wood in a year even a light saw like the 261 is overkill for limbing and cleaning up brush. The narrow kerf compensates for the lack of power nicely and it now comes with me whenever I head to the bush.
Just to update..
Have you done much cutting with the 026 this winter GW.. how have you found it, happy with the purchase ?
I've been doing a lot of blocking so I've been primarily using the 036 with a 3/8 chain . Heavier saw that does most of the work for me. :)
I see that Stihl has a new sharping tool for us. It's has a built in raker adjustment file...the youtube guys seem to like it. I don't see if for sale in Canad yet so I ordered one off Amazon .com and will let you know how it works once I get it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWwjcMUEC7o
Thanks for posting Mike - I hadn't seen this product. The price tag puts it off my list but please let us know what you think when it arrives.
Just a glorified version of a file guide. I use the Oregon guide.
Yeah I did some tree cutting in Kars the day after I got the saw, works well. Bit heavier then the 025. Going to do some Tree cutting at the Fallowfield Tree farm later this week.
Definitely happy with it. I would have the 025 fixed but I lost a part I had set aside for it. The black hose that goes to the Carb (not the gas line) .
Still have to get fix my old Poulans and put them on Kijiji maybe get 20 bucks for each or maybe I give one for free on here. Yeah I think I will do that when I get the old Poulans running.
The work I'm going to be doing is cutting fence lines and some bush work. But considering most bush around Ottawa is just grown up fields shouldn't be to hard. Not like cutting in the bush near Gogama.
Have you tried one?Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
It is much more than a glorified file guide. I'd bet my paycheck if you actually tried one, you would buy one. They work amazing, and way quicker than a file guide, then doing rakers separate. I've had 2 of them for over a year and swear by them. Best set up ever as far as I'm concerned. Give them a try and see what I mean. I bet you like it. They aren't cheap, but think about it, you get 2 round files, and 1 flat file in every one, so they really aren't expensive either. Well worth it IMO. They do an amazing job too. I'm really happy with mine. I do a lot of cutting, and always sharpen myself with a file, but this rig is great.
S.
Yes it's a step up from the 2 stage process required with the older guides. When you like to put an edge on the cutters 2-3 times a day while back in the bush, a tool like this that is fast and easy AND keeps the raker height adjusted automatically with each stroke, it's brilliant.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
Its awesome. You will love it. Every stroke if the file is exactly the same pitch, and angle, and the rakers are perfect every time. I love mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
I had got the impression they were new..LOL...just looked at the date on the Stihl Tutorial video and it was made/posted in 2014.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinker
It was this video that caught my interest and it was only posted back in Oct...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzjmpNTVH6U&t=1s
Glad to hear you're happy with it....I'm looking forward to trying it out. I've order the 3/8 and if happy will then buy the .325.
Yes, they have been out for quite some time now. I've had mine for well over a year anyways. You will be happy. Just order the other one, trust me. Its a great rig. Everyone who has tried mine has bought one too.
S.
Holy crap $95 bucks???? It's more expensive than having 2 girl friends when I wasn't married. Maybe I could convince my buddy that he needs one of these.
Now something I was interested in are those carbon tipped chains that you almost never need to sharpen. Great if you occasionally hit the ground when blocking. Has anyone used these?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaDNTsv9qx4
I ordered mine off Amazon.com for $49, free shipping to Ogdensburg NY,Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
Still cheaper to get my best friend Tim to buy it and then steal it from him. ;)
49 + Conversion approx 67.50
Yeah probably easier to steal from Tim. I could still go on a date for that amount.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
Hmm. First off the guy didn't even tighten up the chain to reduce flex on the teeth. I can just barely move mine when I sharpen. Then when he flipped it around he has the bar on quite the angle, not even close to level. As for marking the shortest cutter what does it matter which one you mark. It doesn't mention anything about making them all the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
All of my work is done at home now as I get logs delivered. I use a stone on a dremel for all my sharpening now and a flat file the odd time on the rakers. Plus I guess you have to get one for each different saw or can you swap files on the rig?
Cheers
Seen and heard from experts on both the pro and cons on how much slack...no definitive 'best'.Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty55
Yes there are designed for specific cutters...3/8, .325 etc...which only makes sense.
I've owned many a sharpening devices thru the years; hand files up to bench systems. I too presently use the Dremel with a tungsten file for my clean up sharpens...but was looking for something easy to put on a quick edge on when I'm back in the bush with the saw on the stump..
Never hurts to try something new....spend more than that it costs going out to dinner and I flush that the next morning...LOL..
The slack on your chain is best when you pull on the chain the it should just not quite touch. All teeth should be filed the same number of times. I usually file 3 times each I never used to mark them as you can see the shine on the tooth where you started, but my eyes are not as good as the use to be so if I'm home I usually mark the tooth where I started.
I just used the standard Oregon file gauge not hard to file in the bush although it is a pain in the if it's -20 out.
I also file each 3x, every other tank. Flip the bar each time and when the bar is right-side up I do a 4th stroke on the RH cutters as I tend to apply more pressure on the other side. Half-way through a chain I'll check length, find the shortest cutter and file them all to match. It is a long process but I have a beer and enjoy it. I take 3+ chains to the bush for each saw (usually bring 2 saws) so I only sharpen at the bench.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
I just use a file with a file guide. Make sure you swap your files out when they stop cutting well and you shouldn't have any issues. The only time when I think I need anything other than a file is when I hit a nail (cut one lengthwise last year grrr). 10+ strokes can get annoying!
Pretty much the same I file every 3 rd tank as well and give each tooth 3 swipes. If you touch a rock you could end up doing 20 swipes to bring them all to the same size. I only carry an extra chain in case I severely damage it. I don't mind filing out in the field although in these temps it's very annoying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anonymoose
The intriguing principle is that the tool controls each cutter and the depth gauge (raker) as a pair or set; which means when you sharpen the cutter, you're automatically also adjusting the depth gauge setting back to spec each time for each cutter raker on the chain. .
That means you no longer have to count strokes...each cutter/raker pair is set to spec with each sharpen so it doesn't matter how one set compares to another set (within reason) on the chain.
Saves time and far better results than the old way.
https://i.imgur.com/VGibl0Om.jpg
You'll have to let me know how the new file system works I got my friend Tim interested.
Pferd first came out with the 2 in 1 file guides several years ago, and I scooped one up. Pretty sure they manufacture the Stihl branded version as well. I'll never go back to using a standard round file/guide and flat file again! There's something to be said for filing consistency, especially if you bore cut trees like I do. Nothing worse than an inconsistent full chisel chain and frozen wood!
No grinders or dremels for this guy, just the 2 in 1. I cut Ash all Winter at work, and have thoroughly enjoyed using a 362CM with a 20" for felling, and a 261 with an 18" for limbing and bucking the last few years.
-Nick
Thanks for the positive feedback Sprite...
Picked it up this morning...so far impressed; sturdily built for 'field' use and nice size for handling. I won't get a chance to use it till the weekend, but will do a follow up report once I use it on the 3/8 on my 036.
I just checked with our local Stihl dealer Rental Village and they have them in stock at $44.95. Seems like about half the price as Amazon.ca. I'm quite tempted lol.
Cheers
Do it!Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty55
Lol, I just might. I do have questions though. Can the round file be rotated so that it don't wear just in one spot and can the files be replaced in the jig once worn out? TksQuote:
Originally Posted by Sprite
Cheers
So I did it yesterday and bought one. To answer my own questions yes the files can be rotated and replaced when needed. The round files are just standard but the raker file is square and not flat. Looking forward to trying it out.
Cheers
So 44.95???
Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty55
Standard price quoted by 3 Stihl dealers in the area!Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
Yeah, they are like 50 bucks, I said that earlier....and there is 2 round files, and a square file in each one, so its not expensive at all when you think about what you get. I'm telling you guys, they are the cats . Been using them for almost 2 years now, and I cut a TON of wood. I'm not just joe homeowner chainsaw guy, I work in the largest managed forest in southern ontario, and I burn 4 or 5 bush cords of wood every year. I do a lot of felling, and cut lots of firewood too.
Buy one and you will see. Best set up going, and I've tried them all. You guys using the dremels, they destroy your chains. Throw that crap out.
S.
Just curious...so have have to ask..How?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinker
I've used a Dremel type jig ( a vintage one made by WEN) for many years. It is battery operated so I can use it in the bush but use it primarily at home. The Tungstone sharpening bits are from Lee Valley do a fabulous job cleaning up the cutter and putting on a good edge. Far quicker than with a file and has served me well for for the past 15yrs of cutting firewood.
The only negative comment I ever heard on them was that, because of the fast bit rotation, they actually harden the cutter tips and makes them harder to sharpen manually with a file after....so you have to stick with the Dremel.
Mike Do you have a guide for the dremel tool or do you just eyeball it. Only rarely have a seen somebody sharpen a chain by had without a guide and do a good job. In fact many still have a hard time with the guide. Do you find the dremel tool faster then the standard file guide?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
Yes GW, my jig has a guide that controls the angles. Very slick, never had a problem using it, puts close to factory spec on the cutter tip.
I think you touched on it, you can do a lot of damage to a chain if your don't do it right, the tungsten bit can take a whack of product off, so if it's not under control it can quickly damage the chain.
Yes, you answered your own question. MOST people, not all, don't have a clue how to sharpen a chain. By using the dremel (or whatever) they remove too much off the cutters, and end up making it worse, and harden the tips so you can't use a file anymore. I've always used a file, by hand. It takes years to get really good at it. I love the stihl set up now, its almost impossible to do it wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
S.
That is what sold me on this just from the product videos.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinker
I used to use the term "idiot proof' for products like this; but my life's experiences have proven there is no limit to the degree of idiocy some people have, so I don't use the term anymore ...LOL...
^^ Thats why I said ALMOST impossible LOL
S.
I'm definitely intrigued at the $45 price point. To the folks that have the new product - what difference is there between this and using a file guide, aside from not having to do the depth gauges separately? I get that it saves you a step, but is there something else I'm missing here?
Its perfect every time, and simple as can be. The file itself sets everything in one pass. The steel rails in the file itself ride on top of the tooth you are sharpening, and the next tooth, and the square file in the middle sets the raker height perfectly, so you really can't mess anything up. I find with a straight hand file, I always sharpen one direction more than the other, so I add an extra pass of the file on the one side. With this set up its perfect every time. 2 passes with the file every other tank and your saw will never be dull again.
S.
WOW !!! you're absolulty right Sinker, what a breeze that was. I touched up the 3/8 chain on my 036 this morning and was tres impressed. It automatically took off some from the racker which was obviously required.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinker
Slick, easy tool....
For Sale: a box of various used sharping devices and aids for a Stihl chainsaw, no longer required....LOL..
Oh..I picked up the .325 sharpener this aft while in Kemptville at Rona...$45.
Tried it at the tree company I'm working for seems good. I'll convince my buddy to buy it hopefully and save my 50 bucks. Turns out his chainsaw also use the same chain as mine so I'll have to grab his spare so I have a spare. ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePal
The Stihl sharpener may be good for touch up moments. We bought one of these from PA and what a marvelous tool, once set up you can do a chain in about 2 minutes, both sides. We have about 10 saws at work and when everyone is cutting, one guy can easily keep up with making sure they are virtually factory sharp. A couple of flat file strokes on each raker(thing in front of the tooth) and it's nothing short of amazing. A small inverter run from the truck will also power it. They come on sale quite often.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8601577e
No thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fisherman
We have one like that too and I hate the thing. By the time you are all set to go, I'm already done mine with the stihl sharpener. Have you tried one? They are very slick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fisherman
S.
Tried the new Stihl hand sharpener. it's better than the old hand file system, but IMO still far inferior to the Timberline filer https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/...ry/spare-parts
Had one now for about 6 years and am really happy with it. Have prob. now sharpened 300+ chains on a 24" bar and I'm still using the original burrs. Easy to use, fast, and zero guessing,. Your angles are dead on every time. Comes with 30 degree inserts. For $13 more you can order the 25-35 degree insert if you want. I use this as well on my Alaskan mill Oregon and Laser ripping chains. Surprised no one else has mentioned this sharpener on this thread. Best manual I've ever used. Even works well, and quickly in the field. I mounted a 5" bench vice on a 3 foot piece of railway tie that I just throw onto the tailgate of the truck. Makes a rock solid clamp for sharpening. I like the motor-driven grinders but haven't had much luck with the cheap ones. We have a commercial grade Oregon sharpener at work that came from Baileys and it is fantastic. Only problem is that it's worth about $3500 and uses a diamond grit wheel that's worth about $300. They are nice because you can perfectly shop grind 4-5 chains and take them out for a full day of cutting and not have to be pissing away time sharpening. Makes a huge difference if you're running a chainsaw mill. Watched the dude on the Stihl video and there's a few things I think he missed when he demoed the sharpening. I learned how to sharpen from a commercial jobber who taught our cutter-skidder cert course. Same process was observed in the cut shacks at EB Eddy and Abitibi camps - first thing you always do is tighten the chain as tight as possible on the bar. You'll never get a uniform angle on the tooth if there's lateral movement of the chain. Once the saw is chucked in the vice, it has to be level before you start sharpening. I slap a cheap 6" level onto the chain, and adjust the saw in the vice so that it is zero levelled. I was taught 3 strokes per tooth, then you tap the file tip twice on the vise peening plate (to clean the filings off the file) before you go to the next tooth. If you needed more than three licks, you were considered a "townie" (a rookie cutter who didn't know how to use a saw properly, meaning you must have let your bar/chain touch ground, rock, or soil ).
I saw the Tiberline sharpener on youtube, does look like the answer, very slick. BUT at 3x the price I don't do enough sharpening to warrant the cost, especially since this new Stihl 2-1 sharpener does what I need it to do, sharpen the cutters quickly and accurately.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...53&cat=1,41131
Lee Valley sells the Timberline one.
Well don't know what you're doing, once the angles are set it's pretty fast, maybe I just got really good at it. The flip it from left to right and off you go. Anyway, I found it extremely easy and fast to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinker
Yes but by the time you have it setup I would be done with the manual and back cutting again. Plus it would have to be cordless to use in the bush.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fisherman
Question:? Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener.
Can you change file size? From 5/32” to 7/32”? Both chains(2 different saws) are 3/8” pitch, but different file size. Just curious
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I just realized the sharpeners are sold according to pitch size so there’s a 3/8”P(picco) 5/32” file and 3/8” standard 7/32” file. Soooo you’d need two units..2much coffee:/
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Feeling really sheepish with my little MS170I...I feel rather small...
Those files that get inserted into the new Stihl sharpener are not the same round and flat files that you use with their traditional sharpener. You have to get the specific file that was made for that sharpener. I haven't seen them available yet at my chainsaw store. You'd have to buy a second full sharpener kit again for a different chain size. Have any of you guys been able to get replacement insert files?
Yeah that’s what I thought. Three different saws/chains = Three different kits...typical Stihl lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Fenelon
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That’s a great little saw, just use it accordingly. I have ms180c, what do you want for 30ccQuote:
Originally Posted by line052
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Actually I keep thinking I might buy one of those nice and light. I have a 026 but want a spare saw as well. I only use a 16 inch blade on it and the 170 also uses a 16 inch so both the same size.
Quote:
Originally Posted by line052
That’s a good combination of saws IMO 30cc and a 50cc. I have three saws 30cc, 40cc and 55cc. If I can’t cut it with the big saw, it’s too big for my old bones lolQuote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
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Will be a different bar and chain pitch regardless of the length for the two different saws.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
-N.
I am pretty much a Stihl guy. That being said if you want something a little smaller then a 026, 260, 261 try a husky 543xp. That xp makes the smaller stihls look like toys and is lighter more compact then the 261.
Back to stihl fan boy talk, i am waiting to get my hands on a MS500i. Have one on order but was told mid-summer 2021.
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When I was still working each truck carried an MS 194T, top handle, they sure look like toy but you would be surprised the amount of work they will do. Light weight but still easly capable of dropping a 12-14 inch tree.
Nope just double checked same file
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprite
I to am a Stihl guy. My chainsaws and blowers are all Stihl. Great machines , well made never a problem. Can be finicky if you don't get the gas to oil ratio right.
That's what I thought. The 170 is a homeowner saw. The 026 is a pro.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprite
MS170 is 5/32
026 is 3/16
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/pr...hain-selector/
What saw do you guys recommend ? I’m thinking around the 30cc mark.
If your budget allows the MS201 is a professional grade saw that I have used lots. Its a 35cc
Again for a do it all saw. That 543xp is hard to beat in terms of weight to power.
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Thanks, how does Husky compare to Echo. My son-in-law likes his Echo.... I’m leaning towards a HuskyQuote:
Originally Posted by chesapeake
I usually only run Stihl. A few Husky here and there.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick_iles
I can't comment on other brands... Other than dads old Homelight. My opinion its a boat anchor. Heavy no power.
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Thanks ....Quote:
Originally Posted by chesapeake
I don't know about the smaller stuff as the only wee zipper I have is a 260 stihl. I have a 680 Echo and that thing has been bulletproof, lots of times I will grab it over my 372XP, 3171 Johnny or 046 stihl. It doesn't quite have the same spot as the big boys but it always starts and it has done the equivalent of two seasons of professional forestry use. The exhaust is nothing more than honeycomb at this point so its loud as hell but she still goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick_iles
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I’ll check them out. I don’t need that much power, but it sounds like Echo is a pretty good saw...they seem to compare well to Huskys.Quote:
Originally Posted by oaknut
I have a echo cs400 good saw, but don’t really use much. The 40cc saws are kinda in no mans land..IMO. Stihl 170/180 for limbs/yard work and 10-12” bucking. But then you need a 50+cc saw for big tree dropping and bucking anyways. It’s a fine line to get that “everything” saw! So you end up with 2 or 3 saws lolQuote:
Originally Posted by rick_iles
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This is incorrect. The 026 requires a 3/16, and the 170 is a 5/32. The 170 generally uses the .325 PMM3 chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
The PMM3 is also an anti-kickback homeowner chain where most use full chisel RS or semi chisel yellow link loops on the 026.
-N.
Incorrect the 026 also tales the .325 which is what I have on mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprite
I pimped out my 170 with a 3/8 drive sprocket and chain. I use it for limbing and needed something with a little more chisel :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprite
Actually I want the 170 for my ATV it's a bit lighter then the 026
Sprite is correct if the specifications published by Stihl mean anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
Keep your saws maintained because there’s nothing like boots full of thick sawdust:)
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I am now looking at the manual for the 026 and it can also take the .325 chain and that is what I have on mine.
Pg 48 of the manual
Quote:
Originally Posted by werner.reiche
Put a 3/8 sprocket and a 12" bar on it....makes great little workhorse saw. Just find a good Stihl dealer who will make you the 3/8 chain..it's doesn't cost anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
I have two 026s both came with .325 sprockets and bars.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
You can change the drive sprockets to a 3/8 if you want but mine came with .325.
You're confusing chain loops here GW. .325 PMM3 is not the same as the standard .325 chain that Stihl produces -- it is a much smaller tooth created specifically for the homeowner saws and some of the top handles, thus requiring a 5/32 file. Sure, the .325 part is the same, but it is a VERY different chain altogether.Quote:
Originally Posted by greatwhite
For your 026 you're likely using a .325 23RS 62 link full chisel loop, or a semi-chisel which is what most use. From what I can tell there's also some anti-kickback chain that you can get in the .325 23 62, but who wants that? They sure as hell don't bore cut well!
I spend a lot of time behind a saw -- full time forester here!
-N.
GW...For clarification a (PMM3) is a Picco ™ Micro™ Mini 3 ....it has Picco stamped on the bar beside the .325
I think the majority of guys on here are “chainsaw weekend warriors”, myself including. I did grow up around chainsaws and wood splitters as it was are heat source (house).Now I cut/split wood to heat my shop and camp. I think there’s nothing better then running a dialed in saw. Kinda like a sighted in gun I guess [emoji2]. Nice too know your around Sprite ! Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprite
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