Chainsaws Again

[greatwhite]

Now something I was interested in are those carbon tipped chains that you almost never need to sharpen. Great if you occasionally hit the ground when blocking. Has anyone used these?

[MikePal]

Holy crap $95 bucks????

I ordered mine off Amazon.com for $49, free shipping to Ogdensburg NY,

[greatwhite]

Still cheaper to get my best friend Tim to buy it and then steal it from him.

49 + Conversion approx 67.50

Yeah probably easier to steal from Tim. I could still go on a date for that amount.

I ordered mine off Amazon.com for $49, free shipping to Ogdensburg NY,

[smitty55]

Just to update..

Have you done much cutting with the 026 this winter GW.. how have you found it, happy with the purchase ?

I've been doing a lot of blocking so I've been primarily using the 036 with a 3/8 chain . Heavier saw that does most of the work for me.

I see that Stihl has a new sharping tool for us. It's has a built in raker adjustment file...the youtube guys seem to like it. I don't see if for sale in Canad yet so I ordered one off Amazon .com and will let you know how it works once I get it.

Hmm. First off the guy didn't even tighten up the chain to reduce flex on the teeth. I can just barely move mine when I sharpen. Then when he flipped it around he has the bar on quite the angle, not even close to level. As for marking the shortest cutter what does it matter which one you mark. It doesn't mention anything about making them all the same.
All of my work is done at home now as I get logs delivered. I use a stone on a dremel for all my sharpening now and a flat file the odd time on the rakers. Plus I guess you have to get one for each different saw or can you swap files on the rig?

Cheers

[MikePal]

First off the guy didn't even tighten up the chain to reduce flex on the teeth. I can just barely move mine when I sharpen.

Seen and heard from experts on both the pro and cons on how much slack...no definitive 'best'.

Yes there are designed for specific cutters...3/8, .325 etc...which only makes sense.

I've owned many a sharpening devices thru the years; hand files up to bench systems. I too presently use the Dremel with a tungsten file for my clean up sharpens...but was looking for something easy to put on a quick edge on when I'm back in the bush with the saw on the stump..

Never hurts to try something new....spend more than that it costs going out to dinner and I flush that the next morning...LOL..

[greatwhite]

The slack on your chain is best when you pull on the chain the it should just not quite touch. All teeth should be filed the same number of times. I usually file 3 times each I never used to mark them as you can see the shine on the tooth where you started, but my eyes are not as good as the use to be so if I'm home I usually mark the tooth where I started.

I just used the standard Oregon file gauge not hard to file in the bush although it is a pain in the if it's -20 out.

[anonymoose]

The slack on your chain is best when you pull on the chain the it should just not quite touch. All teeth should be filed the same number of times. I usually file 3 times each I never used to mark them as you can see the shine on the tooth where you started, but my eyes are not as good as the use to be so if I'm home I usually mark the tooth where I started.

I just used the standard Oregon file gauge not hard to file in the bush although it is a pain in the if it's -20 out.

I also file each 3x, every other tank. Flip the bar each time and when the bar is right-side up I do a 4th stroke on the RH cutters as I tend to apply more pressure on the other side. Half-way through a chain I'll check length, find the shortest cutter and file them all to match. It is a long process but I have a beer and enjoy it. I take 3+ chains to the bush for each saw (usually bring 2 saws) so I only sharpen at the bench.

I just use a file with a file guide. Make sure you swap your files out when they stop cutting well and you shouldn't have any issues. The only time when I think I need anything other than a file is when I hit a nail (cut one lengthwise last year grrr). 10+ strokes can get annoying!

[greatwhite]

Pretty much the same I file every 3 rd tank as well and give each tooth 3 swipes. If you touch a rock you could end up doing 20 swipes to bring them all to the same size. I only carry an extra chain in case I severely damage it. I don't mind filing out in the field although in these temps it's very annoying.

I also file each 3x, every other tank. Flip the bar each time and when the bar is right-side up I do a 4th stroke on the RH cutters as I tend to apply more pressure on the other side. Half-way through a chain I'll check length, find the shortest cutter and file them all to match. It is a long process but I have a beer and enjoy it. I take 3+ chains to the bush for each saw (usually bring 2 saws) so I only sharpen at the bench.

I just use a file with a file guide. Make sure you swap your files out when they stop cutting well and you shouldn't have any issues. The only time when I think I need anything other than a file is when I hit a nail (cut one lengthwise last year grrr). 10+ strokes can get annoying!

[MikePal]

The intriguing principle is that the tool controls each cutter and the depth gauge (raker) as a pair or set; which means when you sharpen the cutter, you're automatically also adjusting the depth gauge setting back to spec each time for each cutter raker on the chain. .

That means you no longer have to count strokes...each cutter/raker pair is set to spec with each sharpen so it doesn't matter how one set compares to another set (within reason) on the chain.

Saves time and far better results than the old way.

[greatwhite]

You'll have to let me know how the new file system works I got my friend Tim interested.