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Thread: Trailer bearing grease change

  1. #21
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    Forgot to mention that there is one downside to the oil bath axles. If you damage a cap or blow a seal, you quickly lose the oil and you are stuck at roadside fixing it. You’ll be able to get home in most cases if you have a greased axle.

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  3. #22
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    Thanks!
    Very valuable info and I regret I didn't know all this stuff before. Apparently, my bearings are not so good anymore due to the fact that water was inside for a winter. But they seem to be OK, even not as shiny as new ones.
    I stopped last time after some 20 minutes driving on the highway and the bearings were just a bit warm. I now make sure this is my habit - to check it after some driving. I even put a reminder on the side of the boat for that.
    I usually drive both ways during the dark hours with no one around me. so it is unlikely I will be able to see a problem or someone outside horns me for that. So the only solution is to stop and check.
    I very much appreciate all responses! Thanks a lot!

  4. #23
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    If you are looking to replace your trailer bearings, I recommend only Timken bearings. Most now are cheap crap from China. I know a guy that took a Chinese bearing apart after it failed with very few miles. He mic’d the rollers and found different sizes within the same carriers. FYI…
    “If you’re not a Liberal by twenty, you have no heart. If you’re not a Conservative by forty, you have no brain.”
    -Winston Churchill

  5. #24
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    I don't think l have many choices here. I think I have to buy from the manufacturer of the trailer (LoadRite). Otherwise I don’t know how to choose the right bearing.
    There are a lot of them on the market (Princess Auto, Can. Tire etc), probably for a better price, but I have no idea how to choose the right one.

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkD View Post
    I don't think l have many choices here. I think I have to buy from the manufacturer of the trailer (LoadRite). Otherwise I don’t know how to choose the right bearing.
    There are a lot of them on the market (Princess Auto, Can. Tire etc), probably for a better price, but I have no idea how to choose the right one.
    So…..get the bearing sizing from Loadrite and order the appropriate sized Timkens….or find a dealer
    “You have enemies ? Good. It means you have stood up for something, sometime in your life”: Winston Churchill

  7. #26
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    Yeah, I know it may sound silly what I’ve said. It’s not that I'm particularly stupid in it. Actually I consider myself technically inclined. I have no problem doing maintenance of my car or my boat - whatever is possible on the driveway. But getting the parts from different manufacturers seems to be tricky sometimes…. I've seen it… You order the parts with the right dimensions from different manufacturers and … oops.. it doesn't fit.
    With the bearing it seems to me even more tricky because I don’t know what dimensions I have to look for.
    For example, they gave me the manufacturer part number. I see it on the web.
    https://www.loadrite.com/trailer-par...er-hub-1435lb/
    The only information I can see here is: Fits 1.06″ Straight Spindles
    Does it mean that I can buy any hub which fits a 1.06” straight spindle?
    Honestly, I have no idea… Then when you look at, let's say, Princess Auto hub’s offering, they don't even mention this “spindle”.
    So, yes, I’m confused.

  8. #27
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    Well I don't know about your technically inclined, if you look on the side of the bearing, the part number is etched in there such as "L44610" and that's common knowledge. Bearings come in inner and outer pairs with a specific inner diameter for the axle. Some are 1 inch, some are 1 1/16th and probably more.

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkD View Post
    Yeah, I know it may sound silly what I’ve said. It’s not that I'm particularly stupid in it. Actually I consider myself technically inclined. I have no problem doing maintenance of my car or my boat - whatever is possible on the driveway. But getting the parts from different manufacturers seems to be tricky sometimes…. I've seen it… You order the parts with the right dimensions from different manufacturers and … oops.. it doesn't fit.
    With the bearing it seems to me even more tricky because I don’t know what dimensions I have to look for.
    For example, they gave me the manufacturer part number. I see it on the web.
    https://www.loadrite.com/trailer-par...er-hub-1435lb/
    The only information I can see here is: Fits 1.06″ Straight Spindles
    Does it mean that I can buy any hub which fits a 1.06” straight spindle?
    Honestly, I have no idea… Then when you look at, let's say, Princess Auto hub’s offering, they don't even mention this “spindle”.
    So, yes, I’m confused.
    chances are if the bearings had sufficient grease and never got hot they won't need replaced.
    clean them with some solvent, repack them with fresh grease and replace the seals and you should be good
    if you notice any heat marks or water present in the old grease it's wise to replace the bearings

  10. #29
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    Well I don't know about your technically inclined, if you look on the side of the bearing, the part number is etched in there such as "L44610" and that's common knowledge.
    Well, apparently I’m not “enough inclined”. Thanks for clarification! I had removed and thoroughly cleaned the bearing this summer but didn’t look for any numbering in it.

    chances are if the bearings had sufficient grease and never got hot they won't need replaced.
    Yes, I know. I’ll do good checking this autumn again.
    The only thing I doubt about is that if I find any problem in the bearing, do I need to change just the bearing and seals or is it better to replace the whole hub?

    Thanks for your help, guys!

  11. #30
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    It's rare that you have to replace the whole hub unless you have had a catastrophic disaster inside such as extreme rust or having the cone rusted right in there. Just the inner and outer bearings (the two pieces) and seal. When replacing the cones, lightly grease them, put in a small zip lock bag and into the freezer for a couple hours, it will make them shrink enough that they will insert into the hub without a lot of hammering and grief. Put them into the hub as soon as you take them out of the freezer. when tightening the big nut, don't to gorilla tight, nothing more than snug, replace cotter pin the loose side if it doesn't quite line up, better slightly lose than too tight which can burn out a bearing in short time.

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